stick to the keys

 

so you dont have to worry about nothing

 

Yeah, nobody on this site likes to mod their car anyway.

 

Hey Amerikaner. I would recommend something like this


http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...11HV-412V.html


It is just a basic Keyless Entry. Locks and unlocks, Pops the trunk if you have a solenoid in the trunk and flashes the lights. All you need is a lock/unlock motors in the doors and you are ready to go. I am assuming those were stock on your car if you can use the Key to lock/unlock all. It is also Viper and you can find cheaper, Just try to stick to a directed product. Just Easier to install IMO. Not stock Fobs but you won't be doing anymore running around looking for parts or anything.

 

boostedmax - I appreciate your insight but think that I'm too far into this to abandon it. Besides, once I get it all worked out it'll be sweet and stock.

Jason - that's a really good deal on that thing. I"ll keep it in mind.

I have no problems right now with using the key, but dammit I want keyless :-) I have sorta put this on the back burner for the moment though...i'm probably about to pull the trigger on a BCM/antenna/module from another org member in a day or so, once I know I have a real understanding of the system.

 

bump


IT'S ALIVE!!!! ALIIIIIIIIIIVEE!!!!

Took out the center waterfall since I'm upgrading my climate control to LED, so I figured now or never... I bought a BCM, antenna, and receiver module from Maxima Joe, and I already had the antenna and receiver module installed in the trunk. Car still would not enter programming mode.

Installed the BCM, plugged it in, and inserted key 6 times, viola! Hazards light up twice. Programming mode entered! Lock button on FOB pushed, that's all she wrote!

Factory Keyless with aftermarket fob. DONE.

Thanks to everyone in this thread for advice, and thanks to Maxima Joe for the BCM, antenna and receiver module.

Observations and musings:
** Vehicle will not enter programming mode if the BCM is a non-keyless. You can have ALL other components (I did), but if the vehicle does not enter programming mode, you will need a compatible BCM (assuming you go to enter programming mode properly..close and lock doors with driver's switch, insert and remove key fully at least 6 times in 10 seconds...hazards flash 2x)

**FOB will work with antenna lugged in and just laying on floor of trunk...


Range testing coming at work tomorrow :-)

 

just playing devils advocate, this thread has several pictures of the locations yet no actual pictures of the modules that need to be in the location. can anyone pop their trunk and snap a pic?

 

I posted the pic of the relay in the trunk. If I get some extra time today ill try to get one of the receiver module too.

 

So I'm gonna bump this...

I want range. I got an antenna for the keyless module back in Feb, but the thing only operates when it's close to the car. I tried grounding the antenna to the stud that holds the jack in, no bueno. I read about that in another thread awhile ago...

Any ideas? IT DOES work, just not from more than 10 feet away.

 

^^ Thanks to Fakie Farkerton for finding the video...looks like that gray antenna thingy attaches to the actual power antenna in the car. Should be interesting

 

I just saw the shout out.
Your very welcome!
Hope it helps and keep us updated!!

 

meh. Been too busy having a baby to do anything with this atm.

 

Mine has 2 year old batteries and will reach from like 200ft? I've set my alarm off from a classroom, library, store, my house, etc. I never really understood it

 

yeah I"m hoping I just need to connect the antenna thingy to the actual power antenna assembly like the above video shows. Just haven't had time

 

so I had some time, and found out that there is NOT a plug for the antenna assembly that plugs into the keyless antenna

looking closer at that video above, it does NOT show the gray keyless antenna plugging into the power antenna like I thought it did...hmm

I was told that the plug goes all the way up and around, and plugs into the rear window antenna? Where in the hell is THAT connector? And how do I get to it?

edit - according to the FSM for my 99, schematic on page EL-234 shows the "multi remote control unit" connecting to the window antenna. Which verfies what I was told...

 

Alrighty then, boys and girls:

Connecting the gray antenna out of the keyless module to the window antenna isn't hard...just requires rear seat removal. The plug is indeed in the passenger side c pillar...








Got a good 100 foot range now

The only potential issue is that the radio was plugged in there but driving around yesterday with radio on wasn't too bad, reception wise. Will probably rig a y cable so I can connect BOTH to the window antenna but it's not bad right Now

 

If your radio is after market, I wonder if you really need to use the window antenna. I've been led to believe that the window antenna is a Bose requirement.

In the 5th gen where the rod antenna has been deleted, there is an antenna amplifier module mounted in the C pillar by the glass connector to create a stronger signal. In conjunction with the rod antenna delete, the 5th gen window has more antenna wires.

 

I was able to create a y cable for each antenna end and now I have my radio and my keyless entry both working flawlessly! Check it out:



the way it works is that the female ends of the current radio antenna and keyless module go to the 2 male ends of that cable...and then that female end of the cable plugs into the male end of the window antenna.

FLAWLESS BABY

 

Since you had pretty much install all the components for the keyless entry/ alarm system. Is it possible to install a system from a 5th or 6th gen? Just like how you can wire a 5th gen cluster into a 4th gen vehicle.

 

No. In the 4th gen, there is a module in the trunk for the keyless entry system. There is no comparable module in the 5th (or 6th) gens. The keyless entry is built into the SECU module of the 5th gen. The closest thing the 4th gen has to the SECU is the BCM. The BCM is like one fourth of the SECU, so you can't realistically put a SECU in a 4th gen.

 

I just bought a 99 SE that didn't come with any keyless fobs. I found some remotes in a 00 maxima at the junkyard today thinking they might work.

The problem is I tried to enter the programming mode a bunch of times, but I can't get the hazard lights to flash. I have the relay in the trunk by the latch and the keyless controller in the passenger side by the antenna.

OP didn't have the relay or controller installed, so I'm assuming that I do have keyless?

 

Since you have those 2 parts, it would seem that the car should go into programming mode. But going into programming mode is a function of the BCM, of which there a version for the remote and a version for no remote. Could it be possible that the previous owner added the relay and controller box?

Another thing - the remote for a 2000 will not work on your car. It uses a different radio frequency. There is a FCC ID on the remote that identifies this. A 99 remote has a FCC ID of A269ZUA078. The 2000 has a FCC ID of NHVWBU43. But this is not why you can't enter programming mode.

Maybe the procedure you are following isn't correct? Here is the one I use that I know works.

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the ignition key and completely remove it at least 6 times
within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will
then flash twice and all previous codes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push any button on the new remote control key fob once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

If you are programming just one remote, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.


NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

 

I doubt it, I guess I'll have to keep trying then. I was using those instructions and I spent over an hour on it this evening. I think I'll try disconnecting the battery tomorrow though. When I did the remotes on my GMC Yukon it was idiotproof, just jump to pins on the OBD2 with a paper clip.

Bummer on the 00 remotes. Anybody want them?

Also, do you know if all the windows can roll down/up with the key in the driver's door lock on the 4th gens? It didn't work on mine and I wasn't sure if that was a feature on these.

 

The windows do not roll down by using the key. Only with the remote.

The guy that started this thread, Amerikaner83, isn't very active on the org any more. Maybe if you pm him he will answer you. Ask him if he knows how to identify the BCM for the keyless and non-keyless systems.

 

My car never had the fuse(s) in for keyless entry. Never got a fob with it either when I bought the car. So I had a shop put in a 2-way Viper Alarm and wa-la! Done.

 

I was troubleshooting the vanity mirrors/homelink not working today and looked up in the FSM what fuse # it was and it turned out to be blown. I guess I should've checked every fuse instead of just the ones that made sense because now the security light is blinking and I can get it to go into programming mode no problem.

Now I just need some 94-99 remotes.