ivorton23

sup fellas...i got a lil issue with my 96 max. this morning i was headin to church and all of a sudden she just started bucking. at one point it wouldnt pass 2500rpm and if i tried stepping on it, it just hesitates and then it will buck again. but after church it did it again for a lil bit and now its driving good again. and it only does this under load(in gear and driving). its fine at a stand still and it revs up to redline fine. anyone have an idea what it could be?
btw i just had an injector replaced and all new plugs and the cars is a 5 speed if that helps.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Engine not reving past 2500 rpms usually points to MAF failure.
Check for stored error codes in the ecu.

ivorton23

yep thats what i was thinkin. im gonna change my fuel filter too. never changed that since i got the car.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Clean your MAF.

rcholic

some prayers will suffice

Maxima08

My bet is the dirty MAF as well.

ivorton23

what do i use to clean the maf? is it hard to take it out??

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

It unbolts/unclamps from the stock intake. Buy the CRC MAF cleaner from Autozone.

Maxima08

Check the how to section, there's a tutorial.

Boothers96

iTrader: (11)

you, sir are directly quoting my symptoms verbatim.....

my thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ted-p1320.html
only dif is im gettin a CEL.

ivorton23

well my cel has been on since i got the car. its for some bad sensors(o2) and knock sensor.
ill have to look at NAPA for that cleaner...no autozone around here. ill try and get her cleaned up this week.

95nissmax

iTrader: (2)

thats happening to my 95 max as well, but i have cleaned the MAF, IAC VALVE, TB, i replaced the MAF with one from the junkyard probably not a good idea, my max bucks sometimes i press the accelerator and it dont respond right away im thinking maybe a clogged injector i did notice when i pulled out a spark plug it smelled like gas(what could be wrong)

ivorton23

i also need a new y pipe and cat . they're both shot and i know it's hurtin performance too. i just cant afford a new y pipe. its too expensive for me right now.

Blakfreestyle

iTrader: (1)

Look in the fsm on instructions to test maf. The test isn't 100% accurate but better than nothing. I am firmly against cold air (short-ram) intakes, in my opinion the heat and extra airflow killed the maf on my 97 Max. I replaced it with a maf from a junkyard as you did and returned my intake to the stock setup. However, remember a used and abused electronic part doesn't equal new.

You can try adding an extra ground wire from the maf wire harness (black wire). Ground that to a clean spot in the engine bay. I'm on my 2nd Max and I do that as a precaution. Also check your codes, vacuum leaks. Make sure that every small hose is plugged in around the air intake area. Good luck.

Logan30

I had the same symptoms, I was about to buy a new MAF, after cleaning it with contact cleaner several times, but after going to clean IACV just to discard any issues, I heard a hissing sound. I thought it was the IACV itself, so I cleaned it throughly and when I was getting ready to install it, I notice that the EGR tube has both bolts loose. That was creating a vacuum leak.

The mechanic that worked on it changing the valve heads gasket, forgot to tighten those bolts...

Tightened the EGR bolts up, put everything back together and voilá, VQ30DE power is back again, idle is silent and steady, and hopefuly I will get 40 MPG jejeje!

I personally never had a vacuum leak issue, but ir feels so good to know that a little tightening will fix a potentially expensive part replacement.


Try to do this before buying anything, check for vacuum leaks. Personally

ivorton23

update...so a lil while ago i was about to go to the store and she wont run. it dies out after running for about a minute. the idle speed goes up and down. at first it wont rev past 2500rpm but now it wont rev at all. press the gas pedal and she dies out. so i just got done pullin out the maf sensor. ill clean it and put it back on and see what happens.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Give it some time before you clean it. It may still be energized.

ivorton23

i just let it sit for a few hours while i went back to work. it should be good now. i just bought some crc maf cleaner so im gonna spray it up and see what happens. ill let it dry over night and put it on sometime tomorrow.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

No need to let it dry overnight. It dries pretty quick.

ivorton23

i still gotta leave it for tomorrow. its getting dark and pretty cold here in south dakota. there's supposed to be a snow storm tonight. man i wish i had a garage.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

^^ I would put it back on before the storm if that's the case and it will dry under the hood overnight.

vqmaxman

Yes, it was the maf it won't let you pass the 2500 rpms.

ivorton23

i got another question....im runnin one of those cone filters and was wondering how do i clean it. im not if its a dry filter or if it has that oil in it but im not sure how to clean it.

here's a pic of it....

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Looks like a spectre filter especially because I have that same MAF adaptor and its spectre as well. its oiled and you can buy the K&N cleaning kit and just follow the dirctions. Probably isnt dirty though, doesnt look it at all

ivorton23

oh...that pics is an old one from about a year ago lol. i had it on the car for about a year and a half. i think its about that time when it should be cleaned or replaced.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Clean it with soap and water and rinse from the inside out. After that, let it air dry and re-oil. Don't over oil and ruin your MAF.

This is why I prefer dry flow filters.

ivorton23

@chrisman287...Thanks for the info man. Im replacing it with a dry flow filter as soon as I could. I put the maf back in a lil while ago and its so far so good. The car revs much much better and has a lil bit more pickup and go. Next job on the list is to change that cone filter and also fuel filter.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Your car should be fine from now on.

Go with either an AEM, Apexi or Amsoil dry flow when you're ready. For the fuel filter, get it from a Z32 TT. They last longer.

ivorton23

Great! thanks for the tip. im about to go look up the price of the z32 fuel filter and aem filter right now.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Maybe $15 for the FF and $40 for the air filter.

ivorton23

ok so the car runs good but its still boggin a lil bit so i think im just gonna replace the maf. the car does have 219,000 miles on it so maybe its time for it to be replaced.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Try cleaning your TB and IACV before replacing the MAF.

ivorton23

are those hard to take apart?

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Not at all. There's a how to in one of the stickies.

ivorton23

can i clean the tb without takin it out of the car or does it have to come out?

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

You don't have to remove it. Just open the throttle plate and get in there good with a tooth brush and carb cleaner.

ivorton23

oh ok...i just happen to have some carb cleaner that i bought to clean the carb in my chevy truck. tomorrow ill take the intake tubes out and clean out the tb. i'll also try cleaning the maf again.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Clean the IACV. You can use carb cleaner for that as well.

ivorton23

is the iacv by the tb? how do get to it?

vqmaxman

The iacv is located near the throttlebody,it's towards the engines firewall. The iacv has to be disconnected and so does the throttle body it has to come all off hoses,bolts,clamps and the tps sensors and iacv sensors,10mm 12mm bolts 4 on the throttle body and 4 on the iacv. The egr is a nightmare take care of that after all of the other stuff has been tooken care of. The throttlebody has a coolant lines running through them I worked around them.