Ok ima give it a try here..I searched and trust me; this is messed up.

-before everything started this was first symptom: car wouldnt start; only click...no its not my starter..changed it 3 months ago. and when i pull out the key, dash lights would stay on.. (not ignition switch; checked it) By opening the door and closing it, the lights would turn off


THEN
-I recently changed my alternator due to its failure once ( i have a vafc 2 and while driving, voltage constantly dropped..so ya. alt pretty sure. Voltage dropped so low that at iddle, the temp on the dash would actually overheat...Only at idle; the instant i drive, it goes normal)

AFTER...

-Now it charges..but from time to time..it wont start; dashlight stays on.. and i could run heater and ac everything. ( VAFC tells me at start up 13.9v...as i drive..drops to 13.6, then eventually 13.3)
-Then i noticed this: it seems like if i play with either the positive or negative cables on the battery, the lights dissapear. THEN it might start. Might..
-So my temp solution was...unplugging battery; but this is not forever; im getting fed up of always disconnecting my battery everywhere i go...

ALSO...

- I noticed that whenever i hit a bump or brake (shift in pressure probably), i hear some sort of SPARKING sound coming from drivers side..Its getting annoying, as everyone is lookin at you..and i stopped driving too.. incase..You know.
- Today the overheating at idle came back; only once..
- Today i also noticed my brake light and battery light going on whenever i full throttle...

What we have tried:

-change the terminal on the positive
- After my vq30dek swap, some wires were dangling around the starter's solenoid...so moved them away..

I noticed that the positive cable from the battery goes to either the engine, or to the fuse box...The wire looks pretty damaged; after swapping the engine, it was stuck under battery TOUCHING the frame...

Could this possibly cause the battery drain and be the source of all this electric madness? Its too annoying to drive never knowing when youll be stuck.

 

I consider myself rather knowledgable under the hood with these cars. but this... this just amazes me. that is so frickin' weird dude! the only thing I do know is the battery and brake light going on at the same time means bad alternator. but that doesn't make sense that it would only do at full throttle.

 

You've got shorts with your battery cables. Your overheating because your fans are not running.

 

Yup and yup.

 

so where should i start lookin first?...lol. could a damaged positive cable cause that?

 

from your own description it sounds like your damaged positive terminal is tucked under the battery TOUCHING the frame. Sounds like that would short something out and cause a drain. Its like running a positive to a negative creating a loop that is drawing current. Check all your wires man. Sounds like it got all frankensteinish with the swap.

Grounds are big issues with our rides. But you got the right idea, start from the source, the battery

 

there is no such thing as uncommon electrical issues in a 4th gen. Ive had about 20 off the wall issues including the locks unlocking and then locking back to back to back whenever they wanted to. I would just change your wires and see where you are bc they obv need to be replaced anyways

 

For one thing, I would look hard at that replacement alternator. Too many people have problems with re-builds. Also check the little wire that plugs into the alternator. If it in not rock solid, that could be the problem.

 

The answers to your issues are within your post....

 

What he said. You've already identified the problem, now fix it. Wires cannot be bare, they cannot contact each other, positive cannot contact ground. If wires are disconnected and hanging near the starter, find where they go and connect them, don't just tuck them away.

Don't be lazy.