4k rpm redline w/ popping noises and horrible gas mileage
#1
4k rpm redline w/ popping noises and horrible gas mileage
This car is driving me crazy. 97 maxima se, a/t 208000 on the odometer. I just got the car for xmas, ran great, shifted smooth, ran smooth everything was perfect. Now I have p0500 vss, and p0600 tcm. The car shifts really hard from 1st to 2nd at any speed, which the top speed is about 45-50. If I floor the gas it struggles to accelerate and makes popping noises. It seems to stay in gear when I come to a stop sign instead of downshifting. I did a tune-up as soon as I got the car, ngk plugs, 300z fuel filter, cleaned maf, throttle body, and sea foamed it. Please help
#4
I believe the p0600 has to do w/ the tcm, I didnt mention before but the are less severe when I first start it before it fully warms up. Once its warmed up its almost undriveable, def not on the highway. I also cant give it more than %10 throttle or it "revs" but the car doesnt move
#7
Why is it that whenever an org member starts having issues with driveability, car making noises, crazy **** going on, they decide to drive it as hard as possible as though that will help them diagnose it? Hmmm, car's making terrible noises... what's my redline?
Anyway, not to pick on the OP, just orgers in general... I think the transmission is the way to go. You've described more than one issue that suggests tranny. Staying in gear at stop, shifting hard, free revving.
Anyway, not to pick on the OP, just orgers in general... I think the transmission is the way to go. You've described more than one issue that suggests tranny. Staying in gear at stop, shifting hard, free revving.
#8
Why is it that whenever an org member starts having issues with driveability, car making noises, crazy **** going on, they decide to drive it as hard as possible as though that will help them diagnose it? Hmmm, car's making terrible noises... what's my redline?
Anyway, not to pick on the OP, just orgers in general... I think the transmission is the way to go. You've described more than one issue that suggests tranny. Staying in gear at stop, shifting hard, free revving.
Anyway, not to pick on the OP, just orgers in general... I think the transmission is the way to go. You've described more than one issue that suggests tranny. Staying in gear at stop, shifting hard, free revving.
#9
whatever you do, don't change your trans fluid. It'll make your transmission worse. There's this lube you can get at pepboys autozone, for like 10 bucks for transmission, it might help temporarily, but eventually you'll have to switch out your trans
#10
Sounds like your tranny to me too even though im not sure what that code is because Ive never personally got it before. I would check your fluid and see what kind of shape it is in. If it stays in gear even when you come to a complete stop then you have a problem. Over 200k miles on these 4th gen tranny's is doin pretty good if you have no problems. I had a slight slipping in mine but some fluid conditioner/additive(zmax lol) corrected that for me luckily. A new tranny with lower mileage might be a good option for you, its not a hard job to put it on yourself even though it might seem like it
#11
you're talking about the flush machine ****. a simple drain and fill is not going to kill an otherwise good trans.
#14
Drained the tranny today put 1qt lucas trans stop slip and 4qts new dex3. Trans shifts way better, plus had the flashing o/d light pulled the codes got 10 short flashes...no codes. So im thinking its something else, will a bad or stuck egr? TCM?
#15
#17
So just replaced vss and pcv valve, I pulled the trans codes again this moring cause it was flashing and the 2nd flash was what I got. Car felt great for about a block and same symptoms arose. It feels like its always under a load no matter what speed, gear, or rpm. In park or neutral if u slowly press the gas to smoothly rev up it revs to 4k and the intake noise sounds like its at wot. Will a plugged egr, or egr tube cause these type of issues? If not where do I go from here?
#21
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
The struggling to accelerate along with the popping points to a misfire.
Check your coil packs, look for corrosion where the spring contacts the pack. Either clean that or replace the coil.
You should also check the TPS, make sure the sweep is linear and clean with no drop outs.
Last, check the MAF sensor, try swapping it with a known good unit.
I think the transmissions behavior is being caused by an engine issue. Some are tied together, such as the TPS.
A malfunctioning transmission will not cause popping (misfires) from the engine.
Check your coil packs, look for corrosion where the spring contacts the pack. Either clean that or replace the coil.
You should also check the TPS, make sure the sweep is linear and clean with no drop outs.
Last, check the MAF sensor, try swapping it with a known good unit.
I think the transmissions behavior is being caused by an engine issue. Some are tied together, such as the TPS.
A malfunctioning transmission will not cause popping (misfires) from the engine.
#22
Well im ruling out the trans, after drain and fill it feels way better. When I first start the car and drive the car runs normal like it should, but as soon as it warms up just a little its like a switch is thrown and the car runs like crap. Could this be maf?
#24
If it runs fine cold, then goes goofy when warmed up it has to be something to do with an engine sensor not reading correctly. When these cars are cold the engine control runs in a open loop mode in this mode it ignores sensor readings and just runs the engine, when it warms up it switches to closed loop mode. In closed loop mode the ECM reads the sensors and runs the engine according to its map. If the control sensors are giving incorrect readings the engine won't run right. It's possible for sensors to read incorrect and not throw a fault code because the fault programming only looks for a sensor to read outside its specified good range, if it reads in the good range but not correct there won't be a fault logged and the engine won't run right. If you can get a scanner that will give a readout for each sensor and the guidance to know what they should read given conditions you could figure out which one is bad. My personal bet is on MAF or O2 sensor.
#25
This car is driving me crazy. 97 maxima se, a/t 208000 on the odometer. I just got the car for xmas, ran great, shifted smooth, ran smooth everything was perfect. Now I have p0500 vss, and p0600 tcm. The car shifts really hard from 1st to 2nd at any speed, which the top speed is about 45-50. If I floor the gas it struggles to accelerate and makes popping noises. It seems to stay in gear when I come to a stop sign instead of downshifting. I did a tune-up as soon as I got the car, ngk plugs, 300z fuel filter, cleaned maf, throttle body, and sea foamed it. Please help
Your car is telling you what is wrong with the CEL. One is VSS, other is TCM. You dont think a bad TCM (which is the tranny computer) will cause the tranny to shift bad?????
you are getting 2 codes. Address the codes first. If that dont work then report back.
Plenty of used TCM in the JY. Jus replace it.
You can try replacing the drop resistor too but usually dont get a code for that.
#28
Awww man lol.
If u unplug the MAF, it is perfectly normal for the car to die, it supposed to because w/o the MAF, the car has no way of know how much air is coming into the engine.
Plug the MAF back in. The CEL will be on until u complete a driving cycle.
#29
Checked codes agoain and still have p0500, p0600, and p013something o2 sensor code. I cant hardly drive the car in traffic anymore. It struggles to accelerate holds every gear tell about 3k and surges when u cruise and a constant speed.
#33
Your A/T control unit is bad im almost certain, either that or the harness or connectors between the ECM and the A/T control unit is open or shorted. When the ECM gets incorrect voltage from the A/T unit it sends the 0600 code. Your ECM harness connector is on your passenger side and if your looking at the glove box its down and to the left and should be covered up by a little plastic plate. Check out the wires and connectors and look especially if you dont have the protective plate there bc with it gone a passenger could of kicked the harness and knocked a wire loose or broke a connector. Your A/T control unit is right in front of your gear selector(what you move into drive, reverse etc). Pop off the plastic cover around the gear selector and then you will see the front 2 screws for the center floor console, there are 2 more on either side of the console that you can see from the back seats of your car looking on either side of the ashtray. Then it just lifts out. Trying to back out the e-brake through the boot is kind of tricky though so dont rip it. You don't have to take the whole console out but it gives you good access especially if you need to take the controller out and replace it. Another idea is to get a new A/T controller through Jim Wolf. It utterly transforms your A/T and is worth every penny. GL
#35
No problem. Check out the ECM area too bc if you don't have that protector then it wouldn't be hard to kick it and knock something loose. That code was sent bc your voltage is incorrect most likely. If your not too much into performance then just pull a A/T controller from the pull a part, get the warranty and your set
#37
It changes the way the tranny shifts and when it shifts. Makes the shifts faster and essentially makes your crappy stock tranny into what you could call "good" lol. Its not cheap and if your not going to do any other performance upgrades then don't worry about it. As long as you come to a complete stop and give the stock tranny some time to shift you shouldn't have that many shifting issues during daily driving
#40
Your car is telling you what is wrong with the CEL. One is VSS, other is TCM. You dont think a bad TCM (which is the tranny computer) will cause the tranny to shift bad?????
you are getting 2 codes. Address the codes first. If that dont work then report back.
Plenty of used TCM in the JY. Jus replace it.
You can try replacing the drop resistor too but usually dont get a code for that.