I'm gonna try and keep this short and sweet. I went to the track tonight and broke something.

Launched at 4k, layed off the throttle while it spun, hammered it when it caught around 5k or so and it pulled hard. Then I shifted into second and the car cuts out and doesn't respond to any throttle changes. Tried different gears on/off the throttle, nothing changes. The tach hovered right at 2k no matter what gear I was in until it died. I could hear the RPMs change even though the tach did not.

I was only able to start it up once since then and it barely idled for a few seconds before it died.

Checked all fuses, they are fine. When I turn the key, I do not hear the fuel pump prime.

The car is still at the track. I will be going to get it tomorrow or Sunday.

Luckily I was datalogging with the EU. Heres the log file https://docs.google.com/open?id=0Bx7...VlNGemttWWxadw

I think the issue is fuel related, but I don't want to throw parts at it hoping it fixes it.

When I go back, Ill check the fuel pump relay and resistance of the fuel pump.

Any ideas?
__________________

 

I tried to look at the log but the link does not work for me.

 

You need the emanage software to view it. Ill post a screenshot soon.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/6970785117/

 

My quick guess is fuel pump...

 

Can you post a screenshot of a run when the car was running good? If you can edit Post #4 and put it right below that for comparison.

Your ignition timing and A/F jump out to me....but Im not familiar w emanagment so Im shooting blind here...

 

maybe the Fuel pump failed cause it couldn't keep up!

 

Only thing that jumps out at me is the AFR going wayyy lean.
Ive adjusted the problem log to be clearer and match the example.

Brokencar:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/6971306107/

Normalcar: (AFR is rich, but running w/o issue)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/schmellyfart/6825184550/


Must have been the final straw, since I haven't had any issues going full throttle earlier this week.

 

Any codes? If you suspect the pump take off the line before the fpr and turn the ignition on. I'd suspect maf if you have codes.

 

I don't know if I have any codes, couldn't get the car running long enough to see if the CEL comes on. I'll have to check with the screw method when I go get the car tomorrow.

Will fuel spray out if the pump is still good?

 

Check fuel pressure with a gauge, but you should hear the pump run.

 

We ended up towing the car home. Installed a new fuel filter and fuel pump. I'll update with more info later, but right now its got 6 or 7 codes stored.

 

Multiple codes...not good.

All was normal until that run? Hope it ends up being something simple man

 

Yup, no issues at all. The CEL actually turned off on the drive there since I recently replaced the o2 sensors.

I haven't looked up the codes on the internet yet, but I did check them in the haynes manual and 4 or 5 of them say 'random part' circuit fault.

On top of it all my registration expires in a couple days and I need to get it smogged first.

 

no luck yet man ?

 

Heheheehehe.

This sounds familiar.

What is the status of your engine mounts?

In short, I think you broke your engine wiring harness, this is exactly what my friends 95 did/doing/done.

 

ES torque mounts, stock side mounts, NWP torque link.

Where did your friend's harness break?

 

We have no idea, but it was sort of the same scenario.

Coming out of a good 90* corner we gunned it, then the car sputtered then died.

Our mechanic rigged the car to run, so it can idle and you can even grandma it for as long as you want... but as soon as you rock the motor it dies.

He ran a multimeter on the major fuses on the hood w/ a gauge so he can watch it, and everything was fine except for the fuse tied to the fuel pump, it pulled like over 100 amps once the motor moved, but if you eased on the car very very very easily it wouldn't do it, but lets say you goosed the clutch hard enough you'd kill it right there in the parking lot.

The fuse he kept blowing was the ECU fuse btw, so check it... May be the same problem he's having.

The lurker should pop his head in here anytime soon, he calls me a post ***** but he lurks like a ninja around these forums and reads every single post... so he sees this... i know he does.....

 

Checked all fuses in the dash and engine bay and all are good. Found a bad Fuel pump relay and replaced it. I was able to barely start it with the two relays disconnected near the clutch (fuel pump and whatever the other one is) Plugged them back in and it won't start.

I CAN hear the fuel pump prime if I put my ear next to the access hole in the rear bench.

I did go and pull the current codes:

Code: P0446 | Description: EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve



Code: P1105 | Description: MAP/BARO Switch Solenoid Valve



Code: P0443 | Description: EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve




Code: P1441 | Description: Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve

 

None of those codes would cause a no-start.

I read this thread twice and im stumped man. Sorry

 

That evap code is easy too fix though! The solenoid bolted to the charcoal canister needs to be unbolted and cleaned with either WD40 or brakecleaner...the valve is more than likely stuck in the open position....you can move it with a screwdriver to ensure it is sliding back and forth very easily! Check for air, fuel and spark!

 

Spray starter fluid down the IM, if it turns over for a second we have a fuel problem then.

 

Where is that located?

ECU is down to only one code P0443.

This is where it sits after running the fuel pump manually (with the supply line unattached) and getting the air bubbles out of the fuel line.

 

What is that flash of light on your IVAS block off?

Edit

Nevermind, I just realized the block off is made of clear acrylic and it's backfiring through the intake.

 

Problem Solved

Finally tracked down the issue today...it was a blown fuse

I was using a fuse tester with a little light on it and testing all fuses while still plugged in so it still completed the circuit, which is why I assume all fuses showed they were good when I checked them. I was looking through the wiring diagram for the fuel system in my Haynes manual and noticed all of the devices that thew a CEL were connected to Fuse 17. I went and pulled the fuse lo and behold it was toast. Replaced it and it fired right up.

 

simple!!

Don't blow it again

 

Funny you should say this but SAME thing happened at the track when I let Sandor borrow my little light thing to test the fuses. They all completed the circuit but it wasnt until another guy (I think it was John) who used a volt meter to check them again. It ended up being a fuse that we though was OK ha

I guess the lesson learned is to check the fuses the good old fashion way by pulling them out, looking at it and putting it back in... OH and to carry extra fuses LOL