Almost $1000 later, noise is still present.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
Almost $1000 later, noise is still present.
I have the 5 speed SE (96)
Noise started after I lowered the car on Megan street series. Thought it was passenger side axle at first. Ordered $200 raxle. Noise still present.
Went ahead and put energy suspension stuff on control arms and sway bars to help out with stress of being lowered. Noise still there. Duh.
Here is where I'm confused. Spent $600 on getting all new bearings, seals, and blocking plates put in the trans, because my research basically told me it was my imput shaft bearing. The guy rebuilding my trans said my bearings looked fine/new and there was no pits in the trans housing or odd wear patterns, told Him to replace them anyways. While I was there, got my flywheel resurfaced, replaced my rear main, and threw a new release bearing on that b*tch. New fluid in there and trans shifts fine, mi us the fact that the blocking plates have to be broke in and such.
Noise is still there.
Asked a few older mechanics what they thought. They said wheel bearing. I ignored them at first because the noise is is only present when I'm in gear and clutch is engaged (pedal out). (In gear, clutch in, no noise. Clutch out in neutral, no noise.)
Didn't think the physics of torque on a wheel bearing could cause something this loud. Replaced the wheel bearing, and tie rod end while I was at it, noise still there.
Noticed when I had the front end up and spun the wheel, the other one turned the opposite way. I thought, "wtf I have an open diff. It didn't do that before, why now?" must of been something wrong with the trans before, or my driver side axle is for an LSD trans I assumed. The passenger side raxle is new and just has the splines on the end. The driver side has splines and a shaft with curved grooves in it that wrap around. I wondered if I had a wrong axle? The axle is older, and was replaced the first time I did my clutch.
The noise sounds like it's coming from the passenger side. And somewhat shakes my steering wheel when I accelerate kinda hard(ish) ;D Yet I just balanced my wheels but not 3k miles ago. My ball joint boots are ripped but the joints are still good. They ripped when I was doing the bushings way after the noise occurred.
I'm just about broke and stressed with this damn car.
Anyone know if my axle is the wrong axle? Or any other ideas?! Diff messed up?
Noise started after I lowered the car on Megan street series. Thought it was passenger side axle at first. Ordered $200 raxle. Noise still present.
Went ahead and put energy suspension stuff on control arms and sway bars to help out with stress of being lowered. Noise still there. Duh.
Here is where I'm confused. Spent $600 on getting all new bearings, seals, and blocking plates put in the trans, because my research basically told me it was my imput shaft bearing. The guy rebuilding my trans said my bearings looked fine/new and there was no pits in the trans housing or odd wear patterns, told Him to replace them anyways. While I was there, got my flywheel resurfaced, replaced my rear main, and threw a new release bearing on that b*tch. New fluid in there and trans shifts fine, mi us the fact that the blocking plates have to be broke in and such.
Noise is still there.
Asked a few older mechanics what they thought. They said wheel bearing. I ignored them at first because the noise is is only present when I'm in gear and clutch is engaged (pedal out). (In gear, clutch in, no noise. Clutch out in neutral, no noise.)
Didn't think the physics of torque on a wheel bearing could cause something this loud. Replaced the wheel bearing, and tie rod end while I was at it, noise still there.
Noticed when I had the front end up and spun the wheel, the other one turned the opposite way. I thought, "wtf I have an open diff. It didn't do that before, why now?" must of been something wrong with the trans before, or my driver side axle is for an LSD trans I assumed. The passenger side raxle is new and just has the splines on the end. The driver side has splines and a shaft with curved grooves in it that wrap around. I wondered if I had a wrong axle? The axle is older, and was replaced the first time I did my clutch.
The noise sounds like it's coming from the passenger side. And somewhat shakes my steering wheel when I accelerate kinda hard(ish) ;D Yet I just balanced my wheels but not 3k miles ago. My ball joint boots are ripped but the joints are still good. They ripped when I was doing the bushings way after the noise occurred.
I'm just about broke and stressed with this damn car.
Anyone know if my axle is the wrong axle? Or any other ideas?! Diff messed up?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,524
From: Maine
What noise are you talking about? Did you start a thread on this already? If so, post a link to it here so we know what you are talking about and maybe someone can try to help. Basically, we need a description of this "noise" you are talking about!!
Lots of stuff going on here. Seems like you're just throwing parts at the thing without really knowing what's going on.
The noise is not input shaft bearing noise as you have now discovered - not sure what research you did that indicated it was input shaft bearings, but either you read something that was incorrect, or you misinterpreted it. "No noise in neutral with clutch out" means it is not input shaft noise. An input shaft bearing problem would be audible with the clutch pedal out regardless of if the car is in neutral or if the car is in a gear. The input shaft spins any time the clutch pedal is not depressed, it doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.
The "grooves" on the axle that wrap around the axle are just different oil grooves that different axle manufacturers use. They are not an issue.
About the opposite wheel not spinning when you had both wheels in the air - either something was dragging/preventing it from spinning (like a brake pad dragging slightly or something like that), or you just didn't notice before.
You can't fit an LSD driver's side axle in a non-LSD trans - it is physically impossible. So no, you don't have the wrong axle.
You never really describe the noise at all so I am kind of hazarding a guess as to what it could be, but if the noise is only present when you are in moving in gear with the clutch pedal out, it certainly sounds like wheel bearing or something like a brake rotor rubbing on a brake shield. I suppose it could be a diff issue, but if your transmission rebuilder didn't notice a problem when he was just inside your transmission, I highly doubt it unless he's totally oblivious. You should listen to your mechanics because it seems to me like they were on the right track but you went ahead and replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced against their advice and wasted a bunch of money. Wheel bearings can be so loud that you can't drown them out with a loud stereo and you can't have a conversation in a car at speed.
BTW, what you are calling "blocking plates" are really called synchronizers or on rare occasions, baulk rings.
The noise is not input shaft bearing noise as you have now discovered - not sure what research you did that indicated it was input shaft bearings, but either you read something that was incorrect, or you misinterpreted it. "No noise in neutral with clutch out" means it is not input shaft noise. An input shaft bearing problem would be audible with the clutch pedal out regardless of if the car is in neutral or if the car is in a gear. The input shaft spins any time the clutch pedal is not depressed, it doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.
The "grooves" on the axle that wrap around the axle are just different oil grooves that different axle manufacturers use. They are not an issue.
About the opposite wheel not spinning when you had both wheels in the air - either something was dragging/preventing it from spinning (like a brake pad dragging slightly or something like that), or you just didn't notice before.
You can't fit an LSD driver's side axle in a non-LSD trans - it is physically impossible. So no, you don't have the wrong axle.
You never really describe the noise at all so I am kind of hazarding a guess as to what it could be, but if the noise is only present when you are in moving in gear with the clutch pedal out, it certainly sounds like wheel bearing or something like a brake rotor rubbing on a brake shield. I suppose it could be a diff issue, but if your transmission rebuilder didn't notice a problem when he was just inside your transmission, I highly doubt it unless he's totally oblivious. You should listen to your mechanics because it seems to me like they were on the right track but you went ahead and replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced against their advice and wasted a bunch of money. Wheel bearings can be so loud that you can't drown them out with a loud stereo and you can't have a conversation in a car at speed.
BTW, what you are calling "blocking plates" are really called synchronizers or on rare occasions, baulk rings.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,095
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Lots of stuff going on here. Seems like you're just throwing parts at the thing without really knowing what's going on.
The noise is not input shaft bearing noise as you have now discovered - not sure what research you did that indicated it was input shaft bearings, but either you read something that was incorrect, or you misinterpreted it. "No noise in neutral with clutch out" means it is not input shaft noise. An input shaft bearing problem would be audible with the clutch pedal out regardless of if the car is in neutral or if the car is in a gear. The input shaft spins any time the clutch pedal is not depressed, it doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.
The "grooves" on the axle that wrap around the axle are just different oil grooves that different axle manufacturers use. They are not an issue.
About the opposite wheel not spinning when you had both wheels in the air - either something was dragging/preventing it from spinning (like a brake pad dragging slightly or something like that), or you just didn't notice before.
You can't fit an LSD driver's side axle in a non-LSD trans - it is physically impossible. So no, you don't have the wrong axle.
You never really describe the noise at all so I am kind of hazarding a guess as to what it could be, but if the noise is only present when you are in moving in gear with the clutch pedal out, it certainly sounds like wheel bearing or something like a brake rotor rubbing on a brake shield. I suppose it could be a diff issue, but if your transmission rebuilder didn't notice a problem when he was just inside your transmission, I highly doubt it unless he's totally oblivious. You should listen to your mechanics because it seems to me like they were on the right track but you went ahead and replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced against their advice and wasted a bunch of money. Wheel bearings can be so loud that you can't drown them out with a loud stereo and you can't have a conversation in a car at speed.
BTW, what you are calling "blocking plates" are really called synchronizers or on rare occasions, baulk rings.
The noise is not input shaft bearing noise as you have now discovered - not sure what research you did that indicated it was input shaft bearings, but either you read something that was incorrect, or you misinterpreted it. "No noise in neutral with clutch out" means it is not input shaft noise. An input shaft bearing problem would be audible with the clutch pedal out regardless of if the car is in neutral or if the car is in a gear. The input shaft spins any time the clutch pedal is not depressed, it doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.
The "grooves" on the axle that wrap around the axle are just different oil grooves that different axle manufacturers use. They are not an issue.
About the opposite wheel not spinning when you had both wheels in the air - either something was dragging/preventing it from spinning (like a brake pad dragging slightly or something like that), or you just didn't notice before.
You can't fit an LSD driver's side axle in a non-LSD trans - it is physically impossible. So no, you don't have the wrong axle.
You never really describe the noise at all so I am kind of hazarding a guess as to what it could be, but if the noise is only present when you are in moving in gear with the clutch pedal out, it certainly sounds like wheel bearing or something like a brake rotor rubbing on a brake shield. I suppose it could be a diff issue, but if your transmission rebuilder didn't notice a problem when he was just inside your transmission, I highly doubt it unless he's totally oblivious. You should listen to your mechanics because it seems to me like they were on the right track but you went ahead and replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced against their advice and wasted a bunch of money. Wheel bearings can be so loud that you can't drown them out with a loud stereo and you can't have a conversation in a car at speed.
BTW, what you are calling "blocking plates" are really called synchronizers or on rare occasions, baulk rings.
Lots of stuff going on here. Seems like you're just throwing parts at the thing without really knowing what's going on.
The noise is not input shaft bearing noise as you have now discovered - not sure what research you did that indicated it was input shaft bearings, but either you read something that was incorrect, or you misinterpreted it. "No noise in neutral with clutch out" means it is not input shaft noise. An input shaft bearing problem would be audible with the clutch pedal out regardless of if the car is in neutral or if the car is in a gear. The input shaft spins any time the clutch pedal is not depressed, it doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.
The "grooves" on the axle that wrap around the axle are just different oil grooves that different axle manufacturers use. They are not an issue.
About the opposite wheel not spinning when you had both wheels in the air - either something was dragging/preventing it from spinning (like a brake pad dragging slightly or something like that), or you just didn't notice before.
You can't fit an LSD driver's side axle in a non-LSD trans - it is physically impossible. So no, you don't have the wrong axle.
You never really describe the noise at all so I am kind of hazarding a guess as to what it could be, but if the noise is only present when you are in moving in gear with the clutch pedal out, it certainly sounds like wheel bearing or something like a brake rotor rubbing on a brake shield. I suppose it could be a diff issue, but if your transmission rebuilder didn't notice a problem when he was just inside your transmission, I highly doubt it unless he's totally oblivious. You should listen to your mechanics because it seems to me like they were on the right track but you went ahead and replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced against their advice and wasted a bunch of money. Wheel bearings can be so loud that you can't drown them out with a loud stereo and you can't have a conversation in a car at speed.
BTW, what you are calling "blocking plates" are really called synchronizers or on rare occasions, baulk rings.
The noise is not input shaft bearing noise as you have now discovered - not sure what research you did that indicated it was input shaft bearings, but either you read something that was incorrect, or you misinterpreted it. "No noise in neutral with clutch out" means it is not input shaft noise. An input shaft bearing problem would be audible with the clutch pedal out regardless of if the car is in neutral or if the car is in a gear. The input shaft spins any time the clutch pedal is not depressed, it doesn't matter whether it's in gear or not.
The "grooves" on the axle that wrap around the axle are just different oil grooves that different axle manufacturers use. They are not an issue.
About the opposite wheel not spinning when you had both wheels in the air - either something was dragging/preventing it from spinning (like a brake pad dragging slightly or something like that), or you just didn't notice before.
You can't fit an LSD driver's side axle in a non-LSD trans - it is physically impossible. So no, you don't have the wrong axle.
You never really describe the noise at all so I am kind of hazarding a guess as to what it could be, but if the noise is only present when you are in moving in gear with the clutch pedal out, it certainly sounds like wheel bearing or something like a brake rotor rubbing on a brake shield. I suppose it could be a diff issue, but if your transmission rebuilder didn't notice a problem when he was just inside your transmission, I highly doubt it unless he's totally oblivious. You should listen to your mechanics because it seems to me like they were on the right track but you went ahead and replaced parts that didn't need to be replaced against their advice and wasted a bunch of money. Wheel bearings can be so loud that you can't drown them out with a loud stereo and you can't have a conversation in a car at speed.
BTW, what you are calling "blocking plates" are really called synchronizers or on rare occasions, baulk rings.
Word of the day- disabuse
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
Well its a crunching noise that corresponds with the speed of the vehicle. Its not a whirring noise like the wheel bearing, and there was no play when I tested the hub with the wheel on. Definitely sounds like a bad bearing. It's hard to describe but its not a smooth noise, its a rough pulsing (ish on acceleration and gradually gets louder till I shift normally around 2.7-3k, rattle/grind.
Is there a bearing in the little carrier bracket? I've looked at it a few times and didn't notice a bearing if there is one even in there? The noise gets feint when the I'm at a constant speed, but gets louder if I turn to the left, and obviously when the car is in (any) gear and the clutch is engaged. Especially when I'm accelerating or decelerating.
When I had the transmission out and spun the input shaft it made a rattling noise, but there was no looseness in the shaft.
There was a thread asking about "Can driving on a bad imput shaft bearing ruin the transmission?" in reguards to 2bros.
It's definitely not the heat shield for the rotor, I know what that noise is, its a more smoother noise.
Is there a bearing in the little carrier bracket? I've looked at it a few times and didn't notice a bearing if there is one even in there? The noise gets feint when the I'm at a constant speed, but gets louder if I turn to the left, and obviously when the car is in (any) gear and the clutch is engaged. Especially when I'm accelerating or decelerating.
When I had the transmission out and spun the input shaft it made a rattling noise, but there was no looseness in the shaft.
There was a thread asking about "Can driving on a bad imput shaft bearing ruin the transmission?" in reguards to 2bros.
It's definitely not the heat shield for the rotor, I know what that noise is, its a more smoother noise.
Carrier bearing.. or your brakes are dragging... check both calipers visually and run some tests on them....does the noise go away when rolling when brakes are applied?? Youve got alot of "wasted" money here already but some shiny new parts lol... id check into calipers and carrier bearing.. i had a similiar sound on my 5th gen... threw all kinds of money at it...when i was a n00b... come to find out it was just the caliper hardware worn out not seating properly and rubbing....so check that too...make sure nothing is rubbing where its not suppose to BOTH sides of car...remember sound travels....something on drivers side can travel to pass side and vice versa so def check carrier bearing and brake hardware and calipers for stickiness
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
Carrier bearing.. or your brakes are dragging... check both calipers visually and run some tests on them....does the noise go away when rolling when brakes are applied?? Youve got alot of "wasted" money here already but some shiny new parts lol... id check into calipers and carrier bearing.. i had a similiar sound on my 5th gen... threw all kinds of money at it...when i was a n00b... come to find out it was just the caliper hardware worn out not seating properly and rubbing....so check that too...make sure nothing is rubbing where its not suppose to BOTH sides of car...remember sound travels....something on drivers side can travel to pass side and vice versa so def check carrier bearing and brake hardware and calipers for stickiness
The noise goes quiet when it's not in gear. I'll check the brakes, I'm pretty sure they are fine, not really abnormal noise when I'm breaking. Usually deceleration and acceleration. The noise is some times a loud "tick-a-tick-a-tick-a" followed by the original noise lol. Steering feels a bit funny but nothing way out of wack because I need another alignment.
I took a video of my trans when it was out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8EdBZu3KWlo&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
I've taken the bracket off before and replaced my axles many times. I've been under the car for numerous hours so it's not like I'm maxima retarded lol. Unless it's a bearing that can't be replaced, and just the bracket has to be, I must have never had a carrier bearing or something is just plain wrong.
The carrier bearing attaches inside where your passenger axle goes in...i believe the bracket that bolts down is either two or three bolts and its a pita to get off...i had to remove mine on my 5th gen when.doin axles cause there was sooooo much rust the axle wouldnt come out...once removed i needed a 5 pound sledge and vice to get axle out.of the bearing...so yes it is there.....
To be more specific here....
http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[39781]+\(a32b&cPath=1783_1784_1851_1872
http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_sear....php?keywords=[39781]+\(a32b&cPath=1783_1784_1851_1872
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
Well how the 4th gen is, the bearing is attached to the axle. Not actually attached to the bracket. I'm going to try messing with the coilovers, because a friend told me they were backwards by looking at the top hat. I put the one labeled L on the drivers side, and R on the passenger.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
I did. And they are the correct way now. Put in a driver side axle and noise is still there. New wheel bearing on DS is next. I had the front end up in the air and the wheel was spinning and no noise, yet the DS front wheel is the bent one of the 4 and there was a little more wobble in up and down and slight left to right, so I'm going to rotate it, even though the noise was there before I rotated that bent wheel to the front.
Here is a video of me driving and getting the noise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB8Dp...e_gdata_player
Here is a video of me driving and getting the noise.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB8Dp...e_gdata_player
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Wheel bearing...... I'm also going to wager a guess that you took an axle out of a drive wheel and put the wheel back on & put the vehicle weight on the hub/bearing assembly without the axle in place & nut tourqed to spec 
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
I've done axles a many times on my car. It happened the day I put my coilovers on so it couldn't of been the axles. You don't have to remove an axle to swap suspension. Did you watch the video?
Imagine two ratchet extensions with a swivel in the middle, now try to torque a bolt to 50ft/lbs like that. A marginal bearing will become noisier immediately after lowering.
Edit; Just watched the video and all I heard was a CV knocking A LOT. How far are you dropped?
Last edited by asand1; Apr 15, 2012 at 11:24 AM.
the noise i heard in the vid sounds just like the noise in your transmission video to me (just muffled a bit by being installed in the car, and that noise does not sound like a bad bearing to my ears) - it sounds like a gear or the 1/2 coupler is rubbing against something it shouldn't be.
have you drained your trans fluid completely since having your trans rebuilt? i'd be interested to see how it looks.
have you drained your trans fluid completely since having your trans rebuilt? i'd be interested to see how it looks.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
Dropping your vehicle increases the working angle on you CV joints, and increases the radial load on the carrier and wheel bearings. At stock height, the carrier bearing will just locate the inner cv joint. Lowered, the angle of the axle will want to tear the carrier bearing away from the engine block.
Imagine two ratchet extensions with a swivel in the middle, now try to torque a bolt to 50ft/lbs like that. A marginal bearing will become noisier immediately after lowering.
Edit; Just watched the video and all I heard was a CV knocking A LOT. How far are you dropped?
Imagine two ratchet extensions with a swivel in the middle, now try to torque a bolt to 50ft/lbs like that. A marginal bearing will become noisier immediately after lowering.
Edit; Just watched the video and all I heard was a CV knocking A LOT. How far are you dropped?
I'm just below the top of the tires. I have the 01 AE rims with some fat 205/55's on 'em. Not that low. At the end of this video you'll see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bR-kNmtnhMs&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Used my phone camera. Reason why it kept falling lol.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
the noise i heard in the vid sounds just like the noise in your transmission video to me (just muffled a bit by being installed in the car, and that noise does not sound like a bad bearing to my ears) - it sounds like a gear or the 1/2 coupler is rubbing against something it shouldn't be.
have you drained your trans fluid completely since having your trans rebuilt? i'd be interested to see how it looks.
have you drained your trans fluid completely since having your trans rebuilt? i'd be interested to see how it looks.
I've put a driver side axle in recently, and the fluid looked fine. The noise is in all of the gears though but only with the clutch engaged.
The guy who rebuilt my trans said all of the bearings looked perfect and there was no signs of rubbing or scarring in the trans.
i wonder if he missed something, or if it's something rubbing so lightly that it's not really creating any metal shavings that you'd see in the oil, or if it's a gear rubbing against one of the plastic oil gutters in the trans.
i feel pretty strongly that it's an internal trans noise from what you've posted. as soon as i watched both of your videos i was like "that's the exact same noise" without a moment's hesitation.
i feel pretty strongly that it's an internal trans noise from what you've posted. as soon as i watched both of your videos i was like "that's the exact same noise" without a moment's hesitation.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 54
From: Gwinnett, Georgia
That's what I'm saying. Idk, I swapped the knuckle for one with some play in the bearing noise still there. I'm going to try and swap my pass knuckle even though it has a new bearing. I had a small accident and I'm wondering if there is something weird with the knuckle even though the core support was the only chassis part that was effected.
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