Hey all,

I have a KYB AGX/H&R suspension setup. Had the front strut mounts replaced in January when I was home because the stabilizer bits in the center (strut mounting bearing?) were broken, as in the piece detached from the actual mount and the nut/top of the strut were way off center (pointing inwards). The shop I took it to replaced the strut mount assembly and within the month the same pieces broke again (both sides), and unlike before, this time the nuts holding the strut in started coming loose until eventually the nuts came off completely (not simultaneously) and I could barely screw them back on with a 17mm socket.

I was back home last week and took it to the same shop, they replaced the strut mounts again for free because they were under warranty. Told me it was very strange that both the mounts broke and in such a short amount of time, but they said they couldn't find anything else that could be causing the problem. Well, I drove 650 miles the day after the replacement and sure enough, within 150 miles the struts had ripped again. About 350 miles in, car started shaking really bad on the right side between 40-60mph (but not at 70+).

Has anyone been through a similar experience with the strut mounts? Is there something else that commonly causes the mounts to fail? I don't drive aggressively and I can't imagine that my luck is just that bad. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

 

I had an Autozone strut mount fail almost immediately, or it could have been defective to start with. Replaced it with a NAPA part, that's still working a couple months later.

The front strut mounts are kind of finicky about how they're installed. The OUT mark on the upper insulator needs to be in just the right place. Maybe the shop's not doing it right?

 

I'd also like some information about this. I have been experiencing the same problem with my strut mounts on my 4th gen. I just replaced them about 2k miles, and they are already shot. I installed them myself, and I made sure everything was lined up and installed correctly (of course, I could have made a mistake, but I highly doubt that...).

I figured it was the cheap quality of whatever strut mounts I used. Do you happen to know the brand of the strut mount being used? I know I used the cheapest one possible from Advanced Auto Parts.

 

I believe mine were KYB, both times, not 100% sure. When I searched for similar problems in the forums there was a sticky note about not using some KYB parts in the suspension assembly, but I couldn't understand if it was referring to the strut mount or something else.

 

I suppose the shop could have botched the install, but they apparently took the time to examine the other suspension parts the second time and found nothing else wrong... If the OUT mark is not in just the right place, would this still cause them to rip that quickly?

Anyone else have any insight on this?

 

What do you mean by "rip," and what part is ripped? The strut mount is metal, so it cracks or wears, but it's hard to imagine it ripping. Are you talking about the rubber spring seat, or the strut bearing, or the strut bellows maybe? Anyway if the OUT mark on the upper spring seat isn't pointing out, it will cause the strut's piston rod to rub against the bore in the strut mount and make noise. At least that's what it did when I didn't pay enough attention to the OUT mark during installation.

 

+1

The strut mounts are metal and ARE NOT created equally.

OEM is the best. Autozone is hit/miss. KYB suck. Do a SEARCH and see for yourself.

I bought mine from advanced auto or cap, i cant remember. What i do know is that i inspected both mounts for strength. They should be a strong metal mount.

And the top perch needs to be pointed "out".

 

i purchased mine from am autoparts online, idont remember the brand but they were decent quality and if i remember correctly they werent to expensive.

putting the outward mark the wrong way shouldnt cause anything to fail tho, mine just bangs alittle if it hits a bump at low speeds in a turn, but im 7k miles deep with them on and my suspension was only aligned 5k miles ago and no problems.

you should just try a different brand. or go with oem.

 

KYB mounts suck. Go with OEM or Moog.

 

Thanks everyone. What I meant by "ripped" was the metal ring (bearing?) that usually keeps the struts centered in the mount detached from the top part and moves around down there, thus making the struts wobble around and off center. Still strange that the bearing detached THAT quickly. I suspect there is more going on than just bad mounts, but going with non-KYB mounts next...

 

I gotta tell u man...i know ppl around here like KYB...but me? im not a fan

 

Having the same issue with Oreilly brand mounts. Gonna upgrade to Moog this weekend. And just some fyi, the strut mount is a 3 piece unit made to look like one piece. It has a metal washer, rubber surrounding the washer all encased in the metal housing.

 

I dont know why people stray from OEM. Is it not the same price in the end when your cheap one fails so soon? Especially if the failure causes something else to break? Develop a relationship with a dealer and you get wholesale prices or at least most do if your not an ***. At minimum buy OEM equivalent

 

I have the autozone brand ones, which are Gabriel, and so far they've handled well at high speeds, canyon running, and everyday use. Haven't broken and I've had them for almost a month now. If they do break down though, I have lifetime on them and all the tools to get them done in less than 20 mins


What brand is this OEM?

 

or go on rockauto and buy some decent ones. courtesy parts is fairly cheap but my dealer beats most of their prices as well

 

Well, I'm in the same boat. I purchased the Mevotech mounts from Rockauto, and BOTH broke through within 48 hours of installation... this is my only car, and daily driver, so I was unable to remove them, and ship them back, so I bought a new pair locally at Autozone, as they were the only store who had them in stock.

Well, it's been a couple of months, and now the passenger side has broken through again...

What bothers me is that this is my only car, and therefore my daily driver. I try and do what I can to maintain it, but this is getting hard, now that I'm am only working part-time, and having to rely on handouts just to make ends meet...

I simply cannot afford even the TIME to be constantly having to work on these issues, even with a lifetime warranty on the parts... i need to fix it once, and be done...

 

For the strut mounts to be giving out so often has to be one of two things or both:

- Strut mount was installed incorrectly with bearing and plate where the word OUT suppose to be facing the axle nut.
- The car was hit and was not straightened back out properly.

If the car was never hit, someone doesn't know how to install the mount. If you look at the mount carefully, there is a flat side of the mount which faces towards the windshield (if I remember off-hand). I would verify your mount directions.

 

Purchase OEM ones from Courtesy, nissanparts.com, etc. I just did.
/thread.

 

Let's be clear here. That is not the strut mount. That is the upper spring seat. Not trying to single you out, I just want everyone on the same page. Yes the seat needs to be installed correctly. It's off center and angled. I don't think it would prematurely ruin the mount however. You'd probably get noises and possibly binding if installed wrong, so you'd know on the 1st test drive something was up.


The strut mount is made of a few parts. The bracket, the part with the 3 studs, should last forever. The insulator, the part with the rubber center, is what fails. The rubber center can wear out. However, I have replaced countless suspensions. Never have I had to replace the mounts. Apparently the OEM part is built to last. The insulator is $50 from Nissan.

I just put struts in my g/f's L31 and noticed how much better that insulator was constructed. It looks like a direct fit as well. It's also cheaper, $30.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/54320-i...033_4117_4119&

 

Ordering the HPK245 spring/strut setup soon for 98 SE. I know I SHOULD replace the mounts at the same time, but with all the horror stories of them failing I question the need. At this point there is no indication of the strut bearing failing, and everyone says the OEM piece is the way to go. Has anyone had experience (good or bad) changing the struts but just putting back the stock mount and bearing if not shot? Like I said, I know I SHOULD, but am weighing options. I can always take it apart again at no cost of they fail after the install.

Thoughts

 

i recently did front struts and the mount (aka insulator; center piece w/ rubber) twisted itself apart. i looked at a couple different ones and went w/ the raybestos professional grade (part # 5201236 @ ~ $30/ea). it's heavy gauge metal and heavy thick rubber and seems very good overall. i would do bearings (i went w/ oe).

 

Are you sure it will be a direct replacement.. It may look the same but may not work..

I have to replace my strut mount insulator, mine is off centered and I have a lot of squeaking and clunking from the side ( passenger front ) Im guessing I need to do an alignment after the job? also is there any other parts I would need besides the strut insulator itself?

 

Everything else should be fine, not really anything to wear on it. No alignment needed after replacing this. I think he meant to link the 4th gen insulator but did not, get the 4th gen one

 

If you have to remove the strut that will throw off your alignment, if you didnt get one then you should.

Yeah Im just going to get the 4th gen insulator and bearing to be safe. Will I need a spring compressor as well?

 

i had the front struts replaced a few years ago. that was about 15k miles.

monroe struts, moog strut bearings. still fine.

did i miss a part when replacing the front struts?

 

If you have stock springs you will need a compressor. With shorter aftermarket springs no you dont. The struts are a in a fixed position, nothing gets out of whack when you take them off. The 4g only has toe adjustment anyways so if you think removing the strut throws that off then be my guest and get an alignment but you 100% dont need one.

 

Yes I ment to link the L31 insulator. I compared it to an A32 insulator, the dimentions are the same. The difference is where the strut pokes through. There is much more strength in that area since it is not just a thin piece of metal in the middle. I have seen the stock insulator's hole enlarged from extended wear.

 

I guess.. I have always been told anytime you remove the struts from the car an alignment would be needed. Premature worn tires not a good thing. Im on Sprint springs ( 2" drop in front ) so they are much shorter than stock. I should be good then?


Ahh I see. Thanks for the info.

 

Hmm...good that you pointed that out and I am not offended by your respose. The rubber insulator is replaceable? Never knew that...


Doesn't this not apply to OEM/Tokico struts because the holes are fixed and not adjustable if it already aligned?

 

The struts have nothing to do with proper alignment. Now if they are defective it will throw it off but they are a stationary item. An alignment might be needed if you have had an alignment on struts that are worn and then you switch to new struts only because the geometry of the suspension would changed. Just taking them off for maintenance? Not needed

 

I will tell you from experience its good practice to get an alignment after removing or replacing front suspension. Unless you know how to mark them so the alignment doesnt get thrown off after removing them or I guess you just got lucky if your tires never wore out uneven.

I wore out a brand new set of tires listening to my mechanic that changed my front suspension a few years ago. I asked him if I would need an alignment after and he said no because he mark them.. what ever that means, I mean.. they only go in one correct way. Anyhow, I listened to him and paid the price.. the inner part of the tires wore out and I didnt notice it till it was to late. Brand new set of tire in the trash for not getting an alignment after. An alignment, new tires, and the Eibach camber kit fixed my issue. So unless someone can school me otherwise, I rather be safe than sorry this time around.

 

Doesn't this not apply to OEM/Tokico struts because the holes are fixed and not adjustable if it already aligned?[/QUOTE]
Im on KYB AGX and Sprint spring ( 2" drop in the front) far from OEM

 

it could have been something else wearing your tires unevenly or perhaps your springs were binding. Who knows?

 

Its possible.. springs are fine.. been on them since 98 lol But after that alignment I never had a problem again. So now that I have to remove the passenger front strut to replace the insulator , you still say no alignment needed?

 

Some say if you just unbolt them it can throw alignment off. I dont think it does. It certainly cant hurt though

 

I bought a pair of Raybestos professional grade strut mount insulators, one has failed within 12 months and 5000 miles. I'm going with the OEM for replacement.

 

Sounds like you didn't install them with the out marked side outboard! What failed on them? You did install the plastic bearing as well w/ lube right?

 

 

You're over tightening them. I made a post a few months ago about this. I have aftermarket tein coilovers I had to reuse the stock mounts. After replacing the failed mounts a few times i realized the aftermarket struts had a little slack inside the mounts. ONLY TIGHTEN UNTIL THE STRUT STARTS TO TURN ALONG WITH THE NUT, otherwise the strut will start to strip out the pre-cut shape and will make it circular and the strut will no longer be held in place by the mount and the mount will fail rather quickly. I doubt you will be able to reach the called for torque on the nut before the strut starts to turn along with it and begins to strip the mount. Cheers happy gravedigging

 

Since someone brought this OLD topic, there are two kinds of OEM strut mounts. There are thicker mounts for SE and I30-t suspensions, then regular mounts for everything else.