Dual alternators
Dual alternators
Just wanted to ask if anyone on here has any info on dual alt kits for 4th gens. I know its a pretty tight space as is around the stock alt. Have dual alternators ever been done on an 4th gen? I wasn't able to find a bracket anywhere on the internet. DC power only sells dual alt kits for popular trucks and such, but not one for nissans.
It would be about the same for a dual setup. Think about it. Another alt, Bracket, Belt as well as oddds n ends will take the price up. Plus two alternators put out the same or somtimes less than a single H/O alt.
Looking at your sig, It dont look like you need two. Try getting a power cap. They help when power surge to the amp occurs. I had dual alt in my 99 durango, but I had 4 15's and 4 amps. So like brooklyncyclone said, two batts with iso will be good too. I did that before my dual setup.
Good luck, anything is possible.
Good luck, anything is possible.
Looking at your sig, It dont look like you need two. Try getting a power cap. They help when power surge to the amp occurs. I had dual alt in my 99 durango, but I had 4 15's and 4 amps. So like brooklyncyclone said, two batts with iso will be good too. I did that before my dual setup.
Good luck, anything is possible.
Good luck, anything is possible.
I know a capacitor would satisfy my current system, but my plans are a Sundown Audio 3500 to replace my Hifonics, which is why I need to upgrade my electrical.
Amplifiers are not magic, they can't break the laws of physics or bend the universe to their will. An amplifier will only make as much power (watts) as the the amount of current (amps) multiplied by the voltage supplied. This is the theoretical output assuming 100% efficiency, which doesn't exist. Standard alternators for the 4th gen output around 110-120 amps peak, and realistically you will only see that if you are driving around at 6000 rpm. You probably have around 60-75 amps available at highway rpm (~3000).
What does this mean? A properly functioning 4th gen maxima charging system with the big three upgrade can support around 1000 WRMS without damaging the car. Your 3500W Sundown Audio amp will sound awesome for all of 2 minutes.
If you add a bunch of 12v car batteries you can keep the amp happy for a little longer, but it still won't output 3500 watts. A high output alternator will help a great deal, but they also have drawbacks...they put more strain on your engine and of course, they're expensive. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternat...i-V%252d6.html $549 for 270 amps at 1700 rpm. (Notice that drops to 165 amps at idle) That would do the trick though. You would have enough current for a 3k watt system. Also, you would need to spend almost as much on the wiring as the alternator. Real 0 gauge wire is expensive...forget that copper clad aluminum bull****.
Like I said, you have to pay to play.
I feel like you need a little lesson. It seems you need to be introduced to a little fact called Ohm's law. (httphttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm%27s_law://)
Amplifiers are not magic, they can't break the laws of physics or bend the universe to their will. An amplifier will only make as much power (watts) as the the amount of current (amps) multiplied by the voltage supplied. This is the theoretical output assuming 100% efficiency, which doesn't exist. Standard alternators for the 4th gen output around 110-120 amps peak, and realistically you will only see that if you are driving around at 6000 rpm. You probably have around 60-75 amps available at highway rpm (~3000).
What does this mean? A properly functioning 4th gen maxima charging system with the big three upgrade can support around 1000 WRMS without damaging the car. Your 3500W Sundown Audio amp will sound awesome for all of 2 minutes.
If you add a bunch of 12v car batteries you can keep the amp happy for a little longer, but it still won't output 3500 watts. A high output alternator will help a great deal, but they also have drawbacks...they put more strain on your engine and of course, they're expensive. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternat...i-V%252d6.html $549 for 270 amps at 1700 rpm. (Notice that drops to 165 amps at idle) That would do the trick though. You would have enough current for a 3k watt system. Also, you would need to spend almost as much on the wiring as the alternator. Real 0 gauge wire is expensive...forget that copper clad aluminum bull****.
Like I said, you have to pay to play.
Amplifiers are not magic, they can't break the laws of physics or bend the universe to their will. An amplifier will only make as much power (watts) as the the amount of current (amps) multiplied by the voltage supplied. This is the theoretical output assuming 100% efficiency, which doesn't exist. Standard alternators for the 4th gen output around 110-120 amps peak, and realistically you will only see that if you are driving around at 6000 rpm. You probably have around 60-75 amps available at highway rpm (~3000).
What does this mean? A properly functioning 4th gen maxima charging system with the big three upgrade can support around 1000 WRMS without damaging the car. Your 3500W Sundown Audio amp will sound awesome for all of 2 minutes.
If you add a bunch of 12v car batteries you can keep the amp happy for a little longer, but it still won't output 3500 watts. A high output alternator will help a great deal, but they also have drawbacks...they put more strain on your engine and of course, they're expensive. http://www.mechmanhighoutputalternat...i-V%252d6.html $549 for 270 amps at 1700 rpm. (Notice that drops to 165 amps at idle) That would do the trick though. You would have enough current for a 3k watt system. Also, you would need to spend almost as much on the wiring as the alternator. Real 0 gauge wire is expensive...forget that copper clad aluminum bull****.
Like I said, you have to pay to play.

Are you planning on competing with the system? IMHO, nobody needs anything more than 1000 watts rms for a street driven vehicle. When you get in 140+ db range you are doing permanent damage to your hearing.
Well, you were complaining about how much the h/o alternators cost...so I thought you needed a wake-up call. No disrespect intended.
Are you planning on competing with the system? IMHO, nobody needs anything more than 1000 watts rms for a street driven vehicle. When you get in 140+ db range you are doing permanent damage to your hearing.
Are you planning on competing with the system? IMHO, nobody needs anything more than 1000 watts rms for a street driven vehicle. When you get in 140+ db range you are doing permanent damage to your hearing.
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