Thinking about getting some aftermarket factory tyc headlights and getting a projector retrofit. I have my choices narrow down to either Morimoto mini DS2 or the H1. Which would be an easier install into a 9004 housing? I kinda leaning toward the DS2. Thanks.

 

Either will be quite simple. Minor cutting will be involved but that's about it.

Go with the H1's > the D2S's.

 

Are you saying both will require cutting? Is it something quick like filling some edges off? How easy is it to aim them?

So the H1 are better? Why? Mainly concern about lo beam quality.

Thanks.

 

I'm not a fan of either to be honest.

 

Yes, both will. You have to cut the back where the bulb usually sits and also do some filing. It's easy to aim.

H1's have better low beam while D2S's have better high beam.

 

Anything would be better than the stock reflector w/ 9004 bulbs. Wanted the easiest and cheapest way to hid projector.

 

And that's the H1's.

 

How do you align/aim the h1 projector when installing? Also, when you take apart the lense from the headlight housing, do you have to use new rubber glue or is the there good enough to reuse without having problems with the lense getting water in them?

 

All you have to worry about is rotation so just make sure they're nice and flat in there. Search on HIDPlanet.com for the fool proof way to do it cause I'm too lazy to explain

I always add more sealant just in case.

 

I did mine over spring break. I used the TYC replacement headlights, morimoto mini H1 projectors, morimoto 3five hid kit, and morimoto xb35 5000k bulbs.

The install was pretty easy for my first retrofit. I need to rotate my driver's side projector a little though because the beam cutoff is crooked. Also, my relay kit is weird...it only works with the thin wire high beam plug turning on the ballasts...which makes me nervous. All in all, an easy enough job that is light years better than the factory headlight output.

 

That's almost exactly what i plan on using except for the bulbs. Going w/ 4300k plus the 9004 relay harness that TRS is selling. Did you have to cut into the 9004 opening? If yes, what's the best way of doing it? (use a dremel?) Also how did you make sure you have it at the right rotation when placing into the housing? Did you test the aiming on the car before sealing back up the headlights?

 

What sealant do you use? Is silicone sealant good enough?

 

Don't use silicone. Use butyl. Nissan is best but others are fine.

 

+1. It can make quite a mess but as long as you're careful with it you'll be fine.

 

I had to cut the mounting tab where the halogen bulb cover mounts on the inside of the headlight. It is just a little trimming honestly. Then I followed the directions in the tutorial on the TRS website. This one: http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf...1_Retrofit.pdf

The tutorial explains how to get the correct rotation by marking the halogen bulb orientation. I didn't test mine before I put it together and the driver's side is just a little off. Instead of being 9 o'clock-3 o'clock, it's more like 9:30-3-30.

 

What's the tool you use to trim the cover mounts? Dremel?

 

A dremel would be perfect.

 

Can you give suggestions of others that you have used and where to buy? Thx.

 

Most auto parts stores will carry butyl tape

 

Trying to remove headlight from headlight assembly to start the retrofit. I see the 2 screws on one side but how is the other end holding together? It seems very loose, but dont want to just pull on it and have some thing break.

 

Gonna have to pull the ball out of the socket.

 

H1 is def the way to go. honestly, save your money and just get a H1 hid kit on ebay....no point in paying extra for aftermarket bulbs.....

 

there are bolts behind the assembly, then you must remove your corner light like chris said, popping the ball out of the socket. then you will see the final 2 bolts.

 

I already have the headlight removed from the car, but trying to figure out how to remove the front part of the headlight from the back part. I see 2 screws on one side, but the side is has no screw.

 

Yes, I know. Outer corners there are two 8mm bolts, inner upper corner has a ball that has to be removed from the socket.

 

IIRC, you can use needle nose pliers to pinch/help the plastic retaining joint out of the assembly.

 

That works, had to use some elbow grease. Thank.

 

Btw, since you used oem TYC housing for your retrofit, did you just reseal it up using the original glue or did you had to use additional butyl seal? Trying too see if using the original glue is suffice.