infinimax96

My Oil light has started to flicker under hard braking, accelerating and tight corners. The oil level is not low. I check it frequently (about every half tank of gas). The level is always at high or slightly above. It leaks little dabs of oil while parked for long periods of time, but nothing serious.

So what is causing this? Oil pressure sensor? something else I don't know of?

2brosgixxer

Pressure switch would be my GUESS...I just priced one out for $10.99 at advance auto so its a cheap enough part to buy and hopefully it will solve your problem.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

How much miles on the engine? Also do you get the timing chain rattle at startup? If so, I would suggest the oil pump as another member discovered that the oil pressure was low on his as per FSM tests.

infinimax96

Engine has 258,XXX it also has a small chain rattle.

Oil pumps don't create pressure, they just move volume. I'll change the pressure sensor first and see if that resolves it.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

It does create pressure along with moving the oil. FSM LC page 5 shows how to test. Put in an oil pressure reader right where switch goes. At idle, you should have 10psi. At 3K RPM, you should have 63.1 - 79.9psi. "If difference is extreme, check oil passage and oil pump for oil leaks."

The oil pressure switch only activates light below 3psi which I saw in another thread and is bad if you ask me.

infinimax96

Oil pumps do not create pressure. The clearances between the parts in the engine (bearings etc) create pressure during the engine cycles. The only thing the pump does is move oil through the crank. The crank then disperses the oil through outlets, between bearings and creates the pressure.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Ok but if pressure isn't holding, what could be the culprit? clogged passageways?

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

age, low oil, compression is going because everythings wearing out. seals as well.

infinimax96

I changed the oil pressure sensor today. And changed my oil. Light hasn't flickered since.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

you got all leaks accounted for??? how was your level?

2brosgixxer

Sensor about as much as I said it was?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

I know you are not referring to me but I accounted for every single drop of oil and have no leaks...its so dry, my oil pan is showing signs of rust. I also have the new tensioner and guide OEM and the timing chain rattle is starting to come back. Sometimes when I start the car from warm, the oil light flickers, then steady for almost a full second and disappears. When it gets warmer, I will measure oil pressure.

infinimax96

I have a small leak on the crank position sensor time chain door that still needs to be fixed. After that I shouldn't have any leaks. It was only dripping couple drips after sitting for 10+ hours. The leak was nothing serious.

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

Yea my crank pulley seal is leaking nothing bad just drips here and there

mrjasonlyrics

Maybe the sensor or the pump. Your engine probably isn't building the pressure that it's suppose too.

infinimax96

It isn't a pressure problem. The oil pressure sensor was bad. After replacing, the problem went away. For the last time, pumps don't create pressure. If it was a pressure problem, that would mean the parts inside were wearing more then they should, such as bearings. Worn bearings and other worn parts cause the engine to not hold pressure.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Mine flickers when I start it up sometimes...just once or twice after cranking...will throw a new pressure sensor in there next week or so...

phatboislim

iTrader: (27)

i had an oil light one time on my 5th gen a couple days after i ran it at the track..i changed the oil as my mechanic suggested at that time and never had an issue afterwards..i dont know what the issue was, but no more oil light was a win for me. i was planning a vq35 swap cuz of it

asand1

iTrader: (1)

How can you say a gerotor type positive displacent oil pump doesnt make oil pressure? I suppose power steering pumps and auto tranny pumps don't make pressure either, and fuel pumps don't make pressure, the regulator does?
The tight tolerances in the engine act to hold the pressure, but the pump creates it. When the gears in the pump wear, or the pressure relief spring weakens, then you will lose pressure.
Yes the engine can also loosen up and not hold pressure, exceeding the gpm of the pump, but thats not to say the pump doesnt make pressure.
Any positive displacement pump is designed specifically to create pressure, to remove the pressure head and claim the pump doesnt make pressure is absurd.

infinimax96

Sure the pump it self will create some amount of pressure as it's passed through. Just like when you turn a garden hose on, it provides a set amount of pressure or "flow" but when you put your thumb over the end, you create a larger amount of pressure. At least that's how I've come to think of it. Who knows, maybe I'm wrong. Regardless, it wasn't the pump that was the issue.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

I figured the pump was not going to be the issue because as I stated before, the sensor only triggers the light with a low psi reading. I was just thinking of a broader picture for the tensioner rattling still even after updating it with guide and sealing every oil leak. The passageways were also cleaned.

I noticed that Nissan was slick in changing the design completely in the 5.5 maximas to solve it once and for all. I asked the parts guy at the dealer to show me one and it has a locking mechanism to lock the piston in place so no rattle can occur.

infinimax96

Some of the 6th gen guys get rattle...

2brosgixxer

What size socket did you use to get that damn pressure sensor out?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Wow, I gotta look this up...

infinimax96

I think it was a 22mm deep. I can't remember off the top of my head.