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Pwnd Head Gasket

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Old 05-17-2012 | 05:31 PM
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Pwnd Head Gasket

So this morning I attempt to start my 1995 SE and it's really really hard to start. Sounded like ****. The car has been leaking oil the last month and has been running rough from time to time. I've been waiting on my brother to work on it but figured it could wait til the weekend. I finally get the car started and it idles like ****. I lightly rev it to keep it from shutting down but if I let my foot off the throttle it idles from 200 to 1200 rpm. I shut the car down and think to check IACV hoses and everything obvious for pinches.

I start the car again and it starts no problem. But the car is running rough. I rev it a bit and thick white smoke starts coming out of the exhaust. I smell coolant and know the head gasket is fried.

So I took tomorrow (Friday) off work and have the weekend to get her back to 100%. I'm researching the process and am ready to order the parts. I will order from local auto stores online to save money and will pickup at the store tomorrow morning and get started with my brothers help.

Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

(2) Beck/Arnley Cylinder Head Gasket
Beck/Arnley Valve Cover Gasket
Felpro Intake Manifold Gasket Set
Felpro Oil Pan Gasket Set
Felpro Valve Cover Gasket Set
Oil Filter
Oil
Coolant

TL;DR: Blown head gasket. Any advice?
Old 05-17-2012 | 09:02 PM
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You may want to acquire timing chain tensioner and water pump if it was never changed. After you do this job, you will not want to go back so replace the parts that I am telling you.
Old 05-18-2012 | 06:24 AM
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Personally I would get new head studs...Those things are over 10 years old and might not handle the torque down when you go to put them back on.
Old 05-18-2012 | 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by max1008
Personally I would get new head studs...Those things are over 10 years old and might not handle the torque down when you go to put them back on.
This. And check the chain tensioners for excessive chain-wear by the chain.
Good luck!
Old 05-18-2012 | 09:03 AM
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Update: Compression test passed. All cylinders around 150 psi. Oil looks good, not cloudy. Coolant looks good. Put everything back together and added some oil and coolant. It's running now but still idling like crap and white smoke from the exhaust.

Any ideas?

I'm so confused. Thanks for the suggestions so far!
Old 05-18-2012 | 12:10 PM
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Update: Added oil, rear main seal is toast.

Time to shop for a replacement engine. Maybe a 3.5. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Old 05-20-2012 | 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cDgRazoray
Update: Added oil, rear main seal is toast.

Time to shop for a replacement engine. Maybe a 3.5. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Old 05-20-2012 | 06:39 AM
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Does the smoke smell like oil or fuel? Also, RMS is very resiliant unless you overfilled with oil and drove for a long time.
Old 05-20-2012 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Trini Boom
Does the smoke smell like oil or fuel? Also, RMS is very resiliant unless you overfilled with oil and drove for a long time.
Hmm oil me thinks.



You can see where I cleaned it off, that's where its leaking. And BAD. I think i can find someone to replace the seal for around $300, then I'll just keep the same engine and keep my eye out for a 3.5. When I come across a good motor I'll pick it up for a swap.
Old 05-20-2012 | 01:21 PM
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Leaking rms wont cause smoke from the exhaust.
Old 05-20-2012 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Leaking rms wont cause smoke from the exhaust.
Thats what I thougt? That's why I'm so confused. I did a compression test and 4 of 6 cylinders were at ~150psi. One was at 125-130 and one was at 170. So I figured it passed. No contamination in the oil, and radiator looked good.
Old 05-20-2012 | 04:00 PM
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Good compression doesn't mean its not leaking coolant into the cylinder, and 125 psi is a significant drop from 150.
Old 05-20-2012 | 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Good compression doesn't mean its not leaking coolant into the cylinder, and 125 psi is a significant drop from 150.
This is a fact. Which cylinder gave you this low reading? Also, that pic shows that your upper oil pan half moon seals needs to be replaced. How are you certain its the head gasket? There should be coolant in at least a cylinder or showing on your spark plugs. Does your oil look milky? Let's see a pic of it along with a sample of antifreeze from radiator. Your hard start condition may be something else unrelated to this.
Old 05-20-2012 | 09:44 PM
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Ya I'm done messing with this thing lol. My buddy found a 3.0 with only 77k miles for 625 and a 90 day warranty. Wish I could afford a 3.5 right now but at least this will get me back on the road with only 77k on it. I really do plan on keep this car for as long as possible while making it as badass as possible. One step at a time...
Old 05-20-2012 | 10:24 PM
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right on
Old 05-23-2012 | 08:18 PM
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this is the exact same thing that happen to my maxima this past week it ended up being the timing was wayyy off maybe the tensioner came loose idk but i bought a motor from a 99 maxima and put it in ,, started it today and bam! she runs like a fcukin champ!
Old 05-23-2012 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jayeyeMax
this is the exact same thing that happen to my maxima this past week it ended up being the timing was wayyy off maybe the tensioner came loose idk but i bought a motor from a 99 maxima and put it in ,, started it today and bam! she runs like a fcukin champ!
CONGRATS! Where did you get your 99 engine from? I'm still trying to find a 3.5 before I order the 3.0.
Old 05-23-2012 | 09:09 PM
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Not familiar with Nissan engine swaps. I too have a 95 SE. If I put in a later model engine, wouldn't I need to replace the ECU too?
Old 05-24-2012 | 07:08 PM
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Update: Talked to my mechanic friend today and we found a few 3.0's with low miles easily. But I really want a 3.5. So we're both searching the globe for a well priced lowish mileage 3.5. I really would like to find one before Sunday...
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