Serious transmission issue
05-25-2012, 08:24 PM
#1
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Serious transmission issue
I believe it's transmission related, it fits.
So the problem is intermittent, does not happen all the time, and has varying degrees of being screwed up. Starting on the not so bad end and escalating, sometimes when I come to a stop, the engine will stall, shift to neutral, turn key, engines restarts, drive, go. Once it does that it will either go away, or continue every time I stop for a while, then as fast as it started, bam, back to driving like a champ. So on top of stalling, upon accelerating there will be some hesitation, sometimes just a little, sometimes it barely feels like I am pushing on the gas, then it will kind of jerk, and sputter. On the bad end, accelerator fully depressed, rpms will raise slightly, just enough to get a little forward momentum, then drop, and stay there, kind of going up and down between 400-700, and when it does this there is a thumping noise on the drivers side coming from inside th engine bay. Then out of the blue, it will run fine for a few blocks, then go back to the light end of the problem.
Also while this is happening it guzzles gas really badly. My dad suggested that it may be the transmission filter, which I can not find in the service manual, but ...http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QFFFT1151.html,
Anyone have a link to the process to change this? Anyone think that could be the issue?
So the problem is intermittent, does not happen all the time, and has varying degrees of being screwed up. Starting on the not so bad end and escalating, sometimes when I come to a stop, the engine will stall, shift to neutral, turn key, engines restarts, drive, go. Once it does that it will either go away, or continue every time I stop for a while, then as fast as it started, bam, back to driving like a champ. So on top of stalling, upon accelerating there will be some hesitation, sometimes just a little, sometimes it barely feels like I am pushing on the gas, then it will kind of jerk, and sputter. On the bad end, accelerator fully depressed, rpms will raise slightly, just enough to get a little forward momentum, then drop, and stay there, kind of going up and down between 400-700, and when it does this there is a thumping noise on the drivers side coming from inside th engine bay. Then out of the blue, it will run fine for a few blocks, then go back to the light end of the problem.
Also while this is happening it guzzles gas really badly. My dad suggested that it may be the transmission filter, which I can not find in the service manual, but ...http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QFFFT1151.html,
Anyone have a link to the process to change this? Anyone think that could be the issue?
05-25-2012, 08:35 PM
#2
This does not sound like a transmission problem. You have fuel problems. Your intake is on the drivers side and I suspect what you here "thumping" might be backfiring into the intake. Also the excessively high fuel consumption and poor running/random acceleration could be fuel pressure related or from bad injector o-rings. My suggestion would be to leave the transmission alone and focus on engine management, the trans is a red herring in this case.
05-25-2012, 09:05 PM
#3
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This does not sound like a transmission problem. You have fuel problems. Your intake is on the drivers side and I suspect what you here "thumping" might be backfiring into the intake. Also the excessively high fuel consumption and poor running/random acceleration could be fuel pressure related or from bad injector o-rings. My suggestion would be to leave the transmission alone and focus on engine management, the trans is a red herring in this case.
Last edited by xj0hnx; 05-25-2012 at 09:08 PM.
05-26-2012, 12:55 AM
#5
Since the OD light is blinking, you should get the codes from it. From what you're describing, I wanna put my money on the throttle position sensor since both the ECU and TCU rely on it for proper operation.
05-26-2012, 03:14 AM
#6
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95-97
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temp with O/D off.
2. Turn ignition switch to off position wait 5 sec.
3. Turn ignition switch to the ACC position.
4. Put O/D to ON.
5. Move shifter to P, turn ignition on but don't start engine.
6. The OD light should come on for about 2 secs.
a. if light does not come on some thing is wrong with the trans. computer. b. if light comes on proceed to no 7.
7. Turn ignition key to off.
8. Turn ignition key to on, don't start engine.
9. Move shift lever to D, turn ignition to off.
10. Put O/D switch to off position.
11. Turn ignition off.
12. Put O/D to off, turn ignition ON wait 2sec and move shifter to the 2 position.
13. Put O/D to on, move shifter to 1 position.
14. Put O/D to off, depress accelerator all the way to floor and release.
15. The computer is now in output mode and will start displaying the codes.
1. Start engine and warm to normal operating temp with O/D off.
2. Turn ignition switch to off position wait 5 sec.
3. Turn ignition switch to the ACC position.
4. Put O/D to ON.
5. Move shifter to P, turn ignition on but don't start engine.
6. The OD light should come on for about 2 secs.
a. if light does not come on some thing is wrong with the trans. computer. b. if light comes on proceed to no 7.
7. Turn ignition key to off.
8. Turn ignition key to on, don't start engine.
9. Move shift lever to D, turn ignition to off.
10. Put O/D switch to off position.
11. Turn ignition off.
12. Put O/D to off, turn ignition ON wait 2sec and move shifter to the 2 position.
13. Put O/D to on, move shifter to 1 position.
14. Put O/D to off, depress accelerator all the way to floor and release.
15. The computer is now in output mode and will start displaying the codes.
05-26-2012, 08:34 AM
#7
Definitely an air/fuel issue. If TPS checks out, inspect the MAF.
05-26-2012, 08:48 AM
#8
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Not sure about your transmission issues but I had the hesitation/loss of power issue you talked about and it turned out to be bad coil packs.I just went ahead and replaced them all since the car was so old but it could have been just one or more...who knows.Anyways,after that I never experienced the problems you described again.
05-26-2012, 09:52 AM
#9
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So I pulled the MIL codes and got the following -
0104 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
0503 - O2 Sensor Fault
0707 - O2 Sensor Fault
1104 - 2nd Gear Signal
1105 - 3rd Gear Signal
Looks like a trip to the junk yard to get the VSS, not sure about the gear codes, it says shift solenoid A, and shift solenoid B, or hydraulic control circuit for both of them.
0104 - Vehicle Speed Sensor
0503 - O2 Sensor Fault
0707 - O2 Sensor Fault
1104 - 2nd Gear Signal
1105 - 3rd Gear Signal
Looks like a trip to the junk yard to get the VSS, not sure about the gear codes, it says shift solenoid A, and shift solenoid B, or hydraulic control circuit for both of them.
05-26-2012, 10:42 AM
#10
Oh man... didn't notice you have a 97. You better get those solenoids replaced ASAP. There is a TSB out for your year about this. Maybe you can get the kit cheap form your dealership. DOn't continue driving unless you want to swap the tranny.
05-26-2012, 11:14 AM
#11
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Check with the local Nissan service center, he said there was no TSB associated with my VIN, and replacing the valve body would cost about $2,300, the part along is over $1K.
05-26-2012, 01:08 PM
#12
Check the wiring that goes to the transmission first. Worst case would be that one of the solenoids failed and you need to buy the solenoid pack. And Courtesy sells that part for a little over $300
http://www.courtesyparts.com/31940n-...-p-133037.html
http://www.courtesyparts.com/31940n-...-p-133037.html
05-26-2012, 06:41 PM
#13
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Sidetrack:
Most dealers and their technicians do not like to work on older vehicles, so they quote outrageous repair costs. That way you don't go there, or if you do they make a huge profit for the work they didn't want to do, and may not even be competent at anymore. Their certified technicians are trained to diagnose and repair recent models.
Most dealers and their technicians do not like to work on older vehicles, so they quote outrageous repair costs. That way you don't go there, or if you do they make a huge profit for the work they didn't want to do, and may not even be competent at anymore. Their certified technicians are trained to diagnose and repair recent models.
05-26-2012, 07:12 PM
#14
Sidetrack:
Most dealers and their technicians do not like to work on older vehicles, so they quote outrageous repair costs. That way you don't go there, or if you do they make a huge profit for the work they didn't want to do, and may not even be competent at anymore. Their certified technicians are trained to diagnose and repair recent models.
Most dealers and their technicians do not like to work on older vehicles, so they quote outrageous repair costs. That way you don't go there, or if you do they make a huge profit for the work they didn't want to do, and may not even be competent at anymore. Their certified technicians are trained to diagnose and repair recent models.
05-26-2012, 07:13 PM
#15
Sidetrack:
Most dealers and their technicians do not like to work on older vehicles, so they quote outrageous repair costs. That way you don't go there, or if you do they make a huge profit for the work they didn't want to do, and may not even be competent at anymore. Their certified technicians are trained to diagnose and repair recent models.
Most dealers and their technicians do not like to work on older vehicles, so they quote outrageous repair costs. That way you don't go there, or if you do they make a huge profit for the work they didn't want to do, and may not even be competent at anymore. Their certified technicians are trained to diagnose and repair recent models.
As far as quoting outrageous costs, that won't happen. Dealers have one hourly rate, multiplied by the flat rate hours that are set by manufacturer (Nissan). For example $90.00 X 1.5Hours=$135.00.
That said, I have never been a service writer, and don't know what goes on in the billing office, they could be dishonest
05-26-2012, 08:37 PM
#16
well i would like to chime in with my 2 cents
this may be trans related it sounds like it may be slipping and falling out of gear do to faulty solenoids if there on their way out they can cause sporadic symptoms
now im going to ask you the same thing i ask everybody with an auto trans issue
what is the level and condition of the fluid?
this may be trans related it sounds like it may be slipping and falling out of gear do to faulty solenoids if there on their way out they can cause sporadic symptoms
now im going to ask you the same thing i ask everybody with an auto trans issue
what is the level and condition of the fluid?
05-27-2012, 11:21 AM
#19
but on the ground it can be tricky and at sometimes downright frustrating. if you've never worked on an auto before it can be overwhelming. this is all said because the valvebody must be removed. which means the 16 pan bolts have to be taken out the pan has to be dropped and cleaned and the 13 valvebody bolts need to be removed and installed in the correct order and torqued (they're all different sizes) it doable it just messy and time consuming
swapping the trans is worse not buy much but the freeking thing is heavy
Last edited by maxed_out_99; 05-27-2012 at 11:30 AM.
05-29-2012, 12:45 PM
#21
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If you decide to do the solenoids, this may help. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...solenoids.html
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