The one good thing I always said about the white nightmare is that it always took two cranks to start.

Now that is no more.

Symptoms at the start of throwing parts at it:

-When cold it would take a long time to start.

-When warm (like lets say I stall in traffic), it would NOT start, I had to wait 5 minutes before it started.

-Bogging after hard acceleration (car would be choking at idle).

New parts (under 10k anyways) under the hood before the starting problem and before I started throwing more new parts at it:
-Spark Plugs
-Fuel Filter
-Battery
-Starter
-Fuel Rail
-Knock Sensor
-Radiator
-Condensor
-Fans
-Coils were checked on other vehicles before putting them on this one.

Things that I changed or happened before the long start:
-Nothing, it has went on it's own downward spiral over the last 2 weeks and gotten progressively worse.

Good known working parts I threw at it:
-Cam Pos Sensor
-Crank Sensor REF (The easy one to change on the Engine->Trans Bellhousing)
-Fuel Pump
-New ECTS (Duralast )
-Tried cleaning the IACV but I killed my first one, put on my second one and now she idles
-Cleaned the maf (Meh it was already apart, has NOTHING to do with long starts, because the car still starts the same way w/o it plugged in).
-Seafoaming the fuel tank (added that bish right in the tank)

What did this change?
-Car runs like an uncaged animal when running, wish I did that stuff sooner
-Bogging when returning to idle after hard acceleration.
-Car starts up in a decent amount of time (10-12 cranks), but still very long compared to before (2 cranks)

Next things to give a whirl:
-Run Codes (I know what they are before even trying [o2 sensor and evap], but if I have something new that may be the cause?)
-Check Spark Pugs
-Install Fuel Pressure Gauge
-That other crank sensor (POS)

Anyone have any more suggestions? I'm going to give that epic long start thread another run down, I'm up for the crazy ones now (that are CHEAP anyways...)

----Problem Fixed----- Post #13
http://forums.maxima.org/8512702-post13.html

 

Injectors were replaced along with the fuel rail? Do they all sound up to par with a stethoscope (or long screwdriver test)?
Are they all clicking away happily at the same rate?

 

per the text I sent you....check the Fuel Pressure Regulator

 

^ @TSD: I'm getting a fuel pressure gauge.

@Maximabebe:

Good idea.....

I can do that quickly.

I'm also adding a few grounds.

 

FPR sounds like the problem.

 

That's what I'm thinkin'.... I wonder how much they run....

/Edit:

$60 or higher... Fckkk that!

Delete FPR install adjustable one

 

Do I get a reward

 

could be weak injector

 

yup
yup
yup
no

 

The OEM one actually cost $120. Get another one and test out. Also, remove vacuum hose from FPR and turn key to ON position and check to see if gas is leaking from FPR vacuum connection. If it is, it is bad but it doesn't always leak to be bad.

 

^^Not for him. He has the hook up on parts

 

He should be hooking us up then....

 

Epic reply

Well why haven't you PM'd me then suckah?


Problem solved.... Crank Shaft Position Sensor Wiring.... I've always known it was damaged, but little did I know it was completely torn up.... I've been starting my car this whole time w/o a Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) [Timing cover side].

Fixed the wiring and now the car starts literally on one crank

 

Congrats on the fix!

I had a slow start 4 years ago due to a clogged IACV.