Knock sensor wire
Knock sensor wire
Ok so i believe for some reason my ecu isnt getting signal thru the knock sensor wire. Does anyone think it'll be ok if i ran a wire from the ks straight to the ecu?
Not ok. That wire is shielded for a reason. Have you checked the harness for continuity? What were the ohms? Did you install a new KS? Have you tried the resistor mod for testing purposes? What is the reason for thinking there is a problem? Any OTHER codes?
Unfortunatly i dont have an ohm tester to check for continuity. I replaced the ks with two brand new ones from nissan. I also got a new harness. The only other code is the egr temp and an o2 sensor, but neither should cause the ecu to keep throwing the code. I ran my prev max with oovi, egr deleted n two out of three o2's with no problem. Also i didnt mean run it straight from the ks, i was gonna trace the two wires off the sub harness until they go into the one wire that goes to the ecu and tap in there.
Get one, youll need it.
Generally, this will throw a ghost KS code.
There is one wire from the ECU to the KS. the "second wire" is for the shield that runs the whole length, they never actually connect. If you go to the trouble of running a wire that probablyt wont work, It would really suck to find out it was due to the O2 and EGR temp the whole time. Fix the other codes first, then worry about the KS.
There is one wire from the ECU to the KS. the "second wire" is for the shield that runs the whole length, they never actually connect. If you go to the trouble of running a wire that probablyt wont work, It would really suck to find out it was due to the O2 and EGR temp the whole time. Fix the other codes first, then worry about the KS.
If you want to work on today's cars, you need to get a multimeter. Measuring voltage and resistance is an everyday thing now. It is more necessary than a screwdriver. Bite the bullet and get one. For $20 - $25 you will get one that will last for years. If you get the $5 Radio shack special, those things are one time uses and you throw them away.
Thanks everyone. Imma bite the bullet and get one. I have one but its in ny and im in pa smh. But how exactly would i use it to determine the ohms and continiuty? I never used one -__-
Ok so after being bored in the house i took the advice n looked into the other codes for the egr temp sensor. Looked around the engine bay n saw that the ground wire for the sensor was broken off at the harness clip smdh. I fixed the wire n extended it. Cleared the codes n did a couple wot pulls. Car feels much better, and when i scanned it again no codes came up. Not even the o2. Keeping my fingers crossed though, but thanks again.. I still wanna learn about the multimeter though lmao.
Ok so after being bored in the house i took the advice n looked into the other codes for the egr temp sensor. Looked around the engine bay n saw that the ground wire for the sensor was broken off at the harness clip smdh. I fixed the wire n extended it. Cleared the codes n did a couple wot pulls. Car feels much better, and when i scanned it again no codes came up. Not even the o2. Keeping my fingers crossed though, but thanks again.. I still wanna learn about the multimeter though lmao.
For continuity and resistance (ohms), you use the meter the same way. Continuity is zero ohms, which is a short circuit. This means that there is nothing to stop or slow down the flow of electricity. A piece of wire will read zero ohms or short. Ohm is the unit of measurement to describe resistance to the flow of electricity.
To check for continuity or resistance, you set the meter to measure ohms. Then touch a wire connection (or lead or end - lots of ways to say it) with one of the meter probes and then touch another wire connection with the other meter probe. The meter will display how much resistance it has calculated.
You have to have an idea of what to expect the meter reading to be - what were you checking for? Zero ohms is good for a continuity test but bad if you were checking the resistance of one of your ignition coils.
If you have fuses blowing, you would be looking for a short. One way of testing for a short is touch one of the meter probes to a wire and the other meter probe to the car's chasis ground.
To check for continuity or resistance, you set the meter to measure ohms. Then touch a wire connection (or lead or end - lots of ways to say it) with one of the meter probes and then touch another wire connection with the other meter probe. The meter will display how much resistance it has calculated.
You have to have an idea of what to expect the meter reading to be - what were you checking for? Zero ohms is good for a continuity test but bad if you were checking the resistance of one of your ignition coils.
If you have fuses blowing, you would be looking for a short. One way of testing for a short is touch one of the meter probes to a wire and the other meter probe to the car's chasis ground.
I am still trying to figure out my issue and I did test for continuity on pins 1 and 2 and it is showing continuity. There is continuity from ECU to end of KS sub harness connector. What else should I do?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ballerchris510
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
17
Sep 23, 2015 08:46 PM
ballerchris510
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
6
Sep 11, 2015 05:29 PM



