jerky/shaky drive @ no throttle (D) and 1500rpm - 1800rpm @ any speed/gear in O/D
06-06-2012, 07:10 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 112
jerky/shaky drive @ no throttle (D) and 1500rpm - 1800rpm @ any speed/gear in O/D
title explains it mostly.
my maxima has started to idle very "shakingly". no its not rough idle. the rev's don't drop. but it makes my whole car shake subtly more than before if im in (D) at a stoplight with my foot on the brakes. If i put it in (N) however, the whole car no longer shakes, but you can sense that a component somewhere is still shaking, although now disconnected from the drivetrain so you can't feel it as much, merely masking the problem.
and when i let my foot off the brake and allow the car to pull itself without pushing the gas, it shakes away as it moves forward.
it only goes away at higher load. like accelerating. but at cruising speeds (40-45mph) or whenever my car gets a chance to drop into overdrive and the revs go to 1500 cruising rev, it shakes again unless i "snap" it out of that with increased throttle or take it out of the lowest rpm - per speed by giving it a little more gas and cruising at 2k instead of 1.5k (same speed, but it uses more gas
).
its not showing the symptoms of a vacuum leak its just doing this shaky **** at that rpm or when letting it roll forward in gear with no throttle...
actually even in reverse with no throttle it does it too... but the main idea is, it shakes at those rpms.
but theres a certain amount of gas i gotta give it ontop of being in that rpm range... its VERY hard to explain in typing words... if its under negative load (throttle off, rolling above idle speeds IE: "riding" in D), it will kill the shake. but only when i give it some gas and transfer some of the negative pull off the gears but not quite toward a positive pull, it shakes. does this make sense to anyone??? like rolling down a hill in D, the gears/diff is engaged, but its riding the rpms rather than "making" them with fuel and energy from the engine...
I HOPE someone highly intellectual can picture what i'm saying and hopefully be mechanically inclined enough to help as well..
my maxima has started to idle very "shakingly". no its not rough idle. the rev's don't drop. but it makes my whole car shake subtly more than before if im in (D) at a stoplight with my foot on the brakes. If i put it in (N) however, the whole car no longer shakes, but you can sense that a component somewhere is still shaking, although now disconnected from the drivetrain so you can't feel it as much, merely masking the problem.
and when i let my foot off the brake and allow the car to pull itself without pushing the gas, it shakes away as it moves forward.
it only goes away at higher load. like accelerating. but at cruising speeds (40-45mph) or whenever my car gets a chance to drop into overdrive and the revs go to 1500 cruising rev, it shakes again unless i "snap" it out of that with increased throttle or take it out of the lowest rpm - per speed by giving it a little more gas and cruising at 2k instead of 1.5k (same speed, but it uses more gas
).its not showing the symptoms of a vacuum leak its just doing this shaky **** at that rpm or when letting it roll forward in gear with no throttle...
actually even in reverse with no throttle it does it too... but the main idea is, it shakes at those rpms.
but theres a certain amount of gas i gotta give it ontop of being in that rpm range... its VERY hard to explain in typing words... if its under negative load (throttle off, rolling above idle speeds IE: "riding" in D), it will kill the shake. but only when i give it some gas and transfer some of the negative pull off the gears but not quite toward a positive pull, it shakes. does this make sense to anyone??? like rolling down a hill in D, the gears/diff is engaged, but its riding the rpms rather than "making" them with fuel and energy from the engine...
I HOPE someone highly intellectual can picture what i'm saying and hopefully be mechanically inclined enough to help as well..
Last edited by Cielo; 06-06-2012 at 07:13 AM.
06-06-2012, 07:33 PM
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 371
Check all that, but check the MAF and the boot between it and the throttle body. I have been chasing a misfire lately, and found it was cracked. Replaced it last week and so far so good. I had a slight shake at idle for a while, then a big one all of the sudden.
06-07-2012, 08:34 AM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 112
. idle is 800+/- 100 at Op. temp. idle is of course lower if im in gear at the light, as opposed to disengaged in neutral. i idle the same as i always have since owning the car. its a mechanical constant and un-variating shake. it shakes evenly and at exact rpm ranges. its not sporatic or anything. if i input any positive throttle at 1500rpm @ 45mph it shakes until my foot exceeds the maintaining injector output speed, then opening to the next stage @ 2k rpm or any further stage of throttle after that, it won't shake. i have to be under load though, if i coast down or slow until im at 1500 rpm @ 0% throttle (still moving though), it won't shake.
also, if my car rolls down hill in gear and rides itself up to 1500rpm, it won't shake. BUT** if i coast or sit in traffic in neutral and rev it to 1500 static rpm, it will shake. my issue revolves around the scenario when load is introduced to the crank-flywheel at 1.5-1.8k rpm. and diminishes when in off throttle/engine braking situations (as mentioned above.)
also, if my car rolls down hill in gear and rides itself up to 1500rpm, it won't shake. BUT** if i coast or sit in traffic in neutral and rev it to 1500 static rpm, it will shake. my issue revolves around the scenario when load is introduced to the crank-flywheel at 1.5-1.8k rpm. and diminishes when in off throttle/engine braking situations (as mentioned above.)
Last edited by Cielo; 06-07-2012 at 09:08 AM.
06-07-2012, 08:42 AM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 112
check engine light went off after replacing maf with brand new oem one + new filters. + new starter.
idk about the injectors or compression. will do a compression test as soon as i get my gauge back from a friend
06-09-2012, 04:15 AM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 112
update: still having trouble with this... no check engine light and i know it works.
the shake has remained the same for the most part, but its getting increasingly harder to accelerate... i need to be at 2.5k-3k rpm at top gear (overdrive unactive) to do 50mph on a slight incline... lots of slopes up and down where i live so this is not a good thing.
i used to be able to hit 60+mph easily at those rpms... now if i wanna move out of regular traffic's way, i need to stomp on it and it feels like my car has absolutely NO guts (even less than my 240) not good for a V6...
a mech told me its 100% impossible NOT to throw a code if it was misfiring... is my OBD just retarded??? the dash is clear, the oil and all filters (except fuel filter) are fresh, and the spark plugs are new... could a fuel filter cause my problem and so sudden?
the shake has remained the same for the most part, but its getting increasingly harder to accelerate... i need to be at 2.5k-3k rpm at top gear (overdrive unactive) to do 50mph on a slight incline... lots of slopes up and down where i live so this is not a good thing.
i used to be able to hit 60+mph easily at those rpms... now if i wanna move out of regular traffic's way, i need to stomp on it and it feels like my car has absolutely NO guts (even less than my 240) not good for a V6...
a mech told me its 100% impossible NOT to throw a code if it was misfiring... is my OBD just retarded??? the dash is clear, the oil and all filters (except fuel filter) are fresh, and the spark plugs are new... could a fuel filter cause my problem and so sudden?
06-10-2012, 03:51 AM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 112
thats strange because my state only has 91, 89, 86. i only ever use 91. i been treating the car 1000x better than it's prev. owner probably did and it starts breaking on ME???
everything is new on it. the only thing i don't touch is the trans fluid because its too old to do so. the last thing i need after a problem like this is a slip.
still got the problem btw... ****s donkey *****.
everything is new on it. the only thing i don't touch is the trans fluid because its too old to do so. the last thing i need after a problem like this is a slip.
still got the problem btw... ****s donkey *****.
06-14-2012, 01:20 AM
#15
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 112
06-14-2012, 09:56 AM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 371
Mine started running very rough all of the sudden, had a little misfire for the last 6 months or so. When it got really bad, I got the multiple misfire code.
I had taped up the boot before i got new one, and it did it again, but I didnt get a code that time. I guess in my case it was whether or not the leak was bad enought to cause the trigger for the misfire code.
Did you check the boot and find any cracks?
I had taped up the boot before i got new one, and it did it again, but I didnt get a code that time. I guess in my case it was whether or not the leak was bad enought to cause the trigger for the misfire code.
Did you check the boot and find any cracks?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
hez8813
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
11
03-12-2020 12:06 AM
bryants95max
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
10
10-02-2015 12:52 PM
97_GXE
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
5
09-15-2015 06:47 AM