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Clear Coating Rims

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Old 06-11-2012, 05:08 AM
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Clear Coating Rims

Has anyone removed and replaced the clear coat on the sawblade rim without painting them at the same time? Wondering if I can just re-clear coat them and if it will look okay?
Or should I paint the entire wheel silver first?
Just trying to clean them up a bit.
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Old 06-11-2012, 02:32 PM
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it entirely depends on the condition of your wheels now. if the clear is in tact its just dulled, you can sand and spray. but if theres oxidation, scratches, or the like, you need to sand it all down until the surface is smooth and flawless.

then you will probably need to spray a base. then clear on top of your color.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
it entirely depends on the condition of your wheels now. if the clear is in tact its just dulled, you can sand and spray. but if theres oxidation, scratches, or the like, you need to sand it all down until the surface is smooth and flawless.

then you will probably need to spray a base. then clear on top of your color.
This sounds about right. I've read this on prior posts.

Not sure if you really want to repaint your wheels since OEM work is usually the best. But here are some links to a few posts I like on how people repaired and repainted their wheels, and their results are pretty good.

http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...l?ref=esp-link
http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...l?ref=esp-link
http://forums.maxima.org/detailing/6...l?ref=esp-link

Hopefully, you'll able to find your answer.
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Old 06-11-2012, 03:47 PM
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post some detailed pics of your wheels and ill tell you what to do with them.
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Old 06-11-2012, 05:31 PM
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They were a mess, 232K miles was kind of hard on them! I already striped the old clear coat. Just wondering if I need to paint them or just clean them up best I can and re-clear coat.

I think I read most of those threads.

I am going to sell the car soon, so I just want them to look better. If i was going to keep it, I would just get new rims.
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Old 06-12-2012, 04:39 AM
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id really have to see them in order to tell you specifics on what you need to do.
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Old 06-12-2012, 05:27 PM
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Clear Coating Rims-021.jpg

Clear Coating Rims-023.jpg

The greenish yellow is the residue from the removing the old clear coat. There are surface scratches on the outer face that dont show up well in the photo, and there a dark splotches that I dont what they are! The lip has a lot of dings and dents in it.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:38 AM
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i would say get some 80 grit and go to town on them. also chips/curb rash is going to need an angle grinder or something similar. but as for the rest start with 80grit. once the imperfections are gone with the 80 switch to 180 and get all those 80 scratches out. by this time you will probably need to spray color unless you want the brushed metal look.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:49 AM
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or you could hand polish them..
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:00 AM
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he wants to get rid of the imperfections and reclear them. polishing them is nice too but im just answering his questions. he already removed a bunch of clearcoat he said so even if he polishes now, they will surface rust.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:40 AM
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Would you guys sand on the machined surface with 80? I guess I dont have much to loose.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
he wants to get rid of the imperfections and reclear them. polishing them is nice too but im just answering his questions. he already removed a bunch of clearcoat he said so even if he polishes now, they will surface rust.
naw...if he uses aircraft stripper to completely strip the rim of clear coat and wetsand them..starting from about 600/800 grit to 2000 grit, it'll be money and as long as he keeps them maintained theyll be fine
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:40 AM
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Take the weight off, mark the location on the back of the rim so you can put it back when your done with the refinish.
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Old 06-13-2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Take the weight off, mark the location on the back of the rim so you can put it back when your done with the refinish.
or just remove the rim and have them rebalanced when reinstalls the tires..
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by sparky1562
Would you guys sand on the machined surface with 80? I guess I dont have much to loose.
theres nothing to lose. 180 takes 80 out. then 320. then 400. then you can either clear them, or continue sanding up to 2000 grit like phatboi said and polish them. without clear i think theyd surface rust over time but he says naw so, maybe?

you should call it a day and buy my sawblades that i already mediablasted, sanded, and powdercoated 98% gloss black. and theyre already balanced, with relatively new tires.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:20 AM
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but like i said, 80 grit will take out those scratches and galvanized spots you were talking about.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
you should call it a day and buy my sawblades that i already mediablasted, sanded, and powdercoated 98% gloss black. and theyre already balanced, with relatively new tires.
The cost and shipping would kill me! LOL!
I actually looked locally for some decent saw blades to just replace these with but didnt find anything.
I just want to get them looking better to sell the car. I think I will sand them down and see what they look like, then maybe paint them, but for sure clear coat them.

Thanks for the input guys!
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:42 AM
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i just paid a service to re-do 2 of my hyper silver wheels and i can tell you its not as easy as it looks. you really have to get the surface smooth and make sure you repaint them with a silver base before you re-clear them. with a pro it only took him an hour and a half, of course he had a compressor and blasted the wheels before repainting and re-clearing them. good luck
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:53 AM
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you dont have to go all the way down to 80 grit...unless you have ALOT of EXTREME gouges in the rim, 600 grit on up will give you what you desire
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
you dont have to go all the way down to 80 grit...unless you have ALOT of EXTREME gouges in the rim, 600 grit on up will give you what you desire
i only went that low to be safe because pics can be deceiving, and he said there were dark spots, which i know galvanization can be a ***** to get off sometimes. 600 is pretty fine to be doing metal prep with, especially if any of the scratches can be felt with your fingernail.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by max ride 41
i just paid a service to re-do 2 of my hyper silver wheels and i can tell you its not as easy as it looks. you really have to get the surface smooth and make sure you repaint them with a silver base before you re-clear them. with a pro it only took him an hour and a half, of course he had a compressor and blasted the wheels before repainting and re-clearing them. good luck
thats why i told him to go down to 80. because itll really cut through any scratches and corrosion. he could prolly go with 180 tho i guess
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by GGENIUS
i only went that low to be safe because pics can be deceiving, and he said there were dark spots, which i know galvanization can be a ***** to get off sometimes. 600 is pretty fine to be doing metal prep with, especially if any of the scratches can be felt with your fingernail.
looking at the pics he posted, after the aircraft stripper, it'll be fine w/ the, 600 and up, if he wants to go to a 400, that's up to him, but 600 is plenty.but 80 grit, i wouldn't look at going that low. what he has going on there doesnt look too much worse than the fat fives from my integra were when i first picked them up...

my post is just referring to polishing the wheel by hand btw
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