BobMax

Replacing the serp belt this on a Max with 200K miles... I don't think the belt has been replaced or adjusted in 100K miles.

Few questions:

1. Should I replace the idler pulley too? 200K seems like a lot of miles... are they known to wear?

2. Is it worth springing for the name brand (Goodyear, Gates?) idler pulley? I like Goodyear Gatorback belts... are the more expensive pulleys a good idea too?

3. Any advice on what will be stuck, how to get to things, etc? Is this a "from the top" or "from the bottom" (or both) job?

4. Anything else in this circuit I should be checking out while I am in there?

Thanks,

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The pulleys have gone bad but not like its an epidemic. When I replaced my alternator 2 maybe 3 years ago, I replaced the pulley because it seemed to have too much play in the bearing. I used an Autozone brand and so far so good. I think it costs around $20, not a giant amount. I doubt if a name brand will do any better. Goodyear for one does not make those parts, they only make tires. They license their name on parts and tools. I bet Gates is the same.

The belt is an above and below job. You have to loosen the tensioner from the top and change the belt from below. If you are not a physically large person, you might not even have to jack up the car.

To loosen the belt tensioner, you first have to loosen the bolt in the center of the idler pulley before you turn the adjusting bolt. The pulley bolt is the adjustment "locking" bolt.

What you might want to consider checking would be the harmonic dampener on the crankshaft that drives the belt. Before you take anything apart, start the car and look at this dampener as the engine idles. Does it look like it is wobbling? Does the alternator belt seem like it is rubbing very heavily on one side of the pulley? if yes, you need to replace the harmonic dampener.

When you replace the belt, you need to tension it. You check belt tension between the crankshaft pulley and the a/c compressor. Tighten the tensioner until the belt deflects 4 mm (.15-.16 inch) when using 22 lbs of force. 1/8" = .125", 3/16" = .167 Recheck the tension after a week or two, it should not have changed. Don't forget to tighten the bolt in the center of the idler pulley when you are done.

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

Idler pulleys dont fail tpically.. the bearings do and if your car wasnt maintained from previous owner the pulley could have an uneven surface... any pulley regardless of name should work... and well gatorback belt is one of the best for our cars,they sell them on ebay for anywhere from 8-15 bucks pending seller...

BobMax

Thanks... good info... I will have to watch that dampener a little closer. I took a quick peek and I do see a little wobble in it. Is it the rubber between the inner and outer pulley that deteriorates? Any way to test other than a visual guess? Does it usually unbolt easily, or am I in for the "need a massive socket with that won't fit in the work area" scenario or the "all rusted bolts are gonna sheer" job?

I just realized that there's a separate PS belt. I might as well do that too. Anything special about replacing that?

Thanks again,

maxinout93

Well if the harmonic damper is wobbling like mine is when i first got my max, most likely both belts may need replacing. Powersteering is a little more involved. If u plan to replace ps belt just cut it off like i did with a knife and walk the new belt on by turning the crankshaft with a socket and ratchet, jus get the belt on as far as it will go. I did it that way because i dont hav a large jack to get underneath the car.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The rubber ring in the harmonic dampener deteriorates and allows the pulley to wobble and slide off. The main problem with changing the dampener is preventing the crankshaft from turning when you try to loosen the bolt. An impact wrench works great but if you don't have one, you'll have to hold the flywheel somehow without damaging the teeth.

The power steering belt is somewhat of a pita. You have to loosen bolts that you can't see. Pmohr did this nice video for us.

Here is an index of all his videos:
http://www.youtube.com/view_play_lis...E3C3345DC2C64F

BobMax

Thanks.

How much play is too much play in the dampener?

Is there room to get an impact wrench in there? Can you go through the wheel well?

Any idea what the socket size is?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

A good dampener doesn't have any wobble. I don't know if there is a spec that says a certain amount of wobble is OK. I had a bad dampener on my 94 max and drove it that way for 2 or 3 years. Unfortunately the car got totalled before I ever replaced the dampener, but I was lucky it didn't come apart on me in all that time.

I don't know what size bolt is used but you can get to it with an impact. The video shows you a straight on shot through the wheel well.

maxinout93

The socket size is a 19mm

BobMax

Thanks... 19mm is easy, and that access isn't bad at all. Looks doable without pain.

kel456

2 questions, what kind of tool do you use to check the belt deflection? how do you torque the idler pulley bolt since the only tool that can get in there is the regular manual wrench?

Frank Fontaine

Just did this, and got all the parts at amazon....Gates, to incl. the idler pulley.

It's not a bad job at all, but the power steering belt was a PITA, just be patient.

Also did the hoses with Gates, were the originals (14 1/2 y.o.), the upper crumbled as we pried it off....

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Good luck, some be on tight @$$ ****, had to hit my last one with a 3/4 Impact...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I use my eyeball, uncalibrated as it may be. The amount of deflection is pretty small. If you have to make an error, make it on the loose side as that won't really hurt anything. If you have the belt too loose, you will hear the belt squealing, especially when you start the car and everything is cold. The colder the weather, the more likely squeal will happen.

As for torquing the pulley bolt, You will have to use an extension on the torque wrench and reach in through the wheel well. Add about 5 pound feet because of the extension. More if it is a cheap azz extension. To keep the crankshaft from turning, you'll have to hold the flywheel somehow without damaging the teeth.

kel456

i will be doing this. what kind of extension were you using for your torque wrench?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I have extensions that are made for impact wrenches. They are very hard steel and don't twist as much. But if you go slow, even the cheap Walmart specials will work for you, but add a few extra pounds to the reading to compensate for the twisting.