jlane330

Sorry for the stupid question, but after searching for hours, I see different options without any follow-up or clarification (other than a generic statement along the lines of use a 5th gen clutch). Can someone please help out with selecting new clutch parts (OEM Nissan, NOT Key Value Advantage junk). Oh, I also PM'd DaveB but it appears he hasn't been here in about a month.

Car: '99 SE, 5sp, 4th gen, stock daily driver with 160K

Options found for 5th gen disk and PP:
clutch disc (C0100-6E600 which replaces 30100-2Y904; 240mm)
clutch cover PP (30210-89F00; 240 mm, 635 KgF)

Other stuff:
Throwout bearing 30502-41U20
Axle Seal 38342-81X00
Axle Seal 38342-81X01

I know the two PP have different clamping forces (635 v. 750 KgF) and possibly different diameters (240 V. 250mm). Which one is most appropriate/common to use and why?

As for disk's, which one to choose and why?

Again, sorry for the stupid question. Thanks for the clarity! Oh, and I'd prefer to stick with the OEM Nissan parts on this. Thanks!

EDIT: I think I figured it out, finally. A lot of part numbers floating around here, some are correct, some are wrong (wrong number for a given application). I removed the questionable ones for clarity, I think this list is correct now for a 5th gen clutch set-up.

styliztik

I believe the 5th gen can handle more torque as an oem part as opposed to like an act aftermarket one. And also I believe it gives a better feel in the pedal

VisciousMo

iTrader: (4)

Jncoracer and I have had 5th gen OEM pressure plates snap in half. I bought an Exedy OEM replacement clutch for $127 shipped.

jlane330

Well shoot, I completely forgot to follow up on this. Thanks for the info! Can I ask how you broken your pressure plates? Was this a stock application? Do you think it was a faulty part to begin with, or something wrong with the design?

Reason I ask is because I'm over 160K on my stock original clutch, and just need a decent quality one to last a while longer. The Exedy sounds good price wise, but does it perform like the OEM (take-up feel, grabbing power, no chatter, etc)? This is my beater daily driver and I get to sit in traffic...

Thanks for the input!

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

This is what happened to mine. Approximately 30k, never raced on it. Pulled away from my house, shifted to second, heard a "thunk" noise, and the car wouldnt move.

jlane330

Yikes! Thanks for the pic. Did you have a pressure plate issue too, or just the clutch disk? Using the Exedy now?

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

No problems with the pressure plate. I reused it and just picked up another clutch disk from Napa since I couldnt get an Exedy that day.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Im sure you read my thread from 04.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-success.html

Still on that clutch too. Mine does make a strange vibration if I ride the clutch but it still grabs like a ****. Proof:



I will be replacing it soon, this time with a Competition Clutch and a Tony Danza flywheel.

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

Ouch. How many miles on yours? Tony Danza? Damn autocorrect?

jlane330

Thanks for the pics and info everyone! At this point I'm not sure why I need anything more that the stock OEM replacement. The original lasted a LONG time, and until recently, held great. Not sure there is any value is changing it to be "better". Although not as cheap as the Exedy, the stock 4th gen isn't too expensive either.

Anything major I'm missing, or does the 4th gen sound good enough? I'd do the Exedy if people feel that it's similar to the stocker in engagement/life...

JNCoRacer

iTrader: (6)

For everyday driving the stock one will be fine. Make sure you get a new throw out bearing as well.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Not exactly sure on the miles. I bought my car 1/04 with 87k, I replaced the clutch 11/04. I have 136k now.

Tony danza is a joke, it's a Fidanza of course.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Bringing this back to ask some follow-ups:

I will be taking my car to a shop for the clutch job and I want to buy all the OEM replacement parts from a discount online seller (World Parts Express has the best discount I've seen on Nissan parts.)

What are all the parts needed for a standard clutch job? Disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, anything else? Is flywheel necessary? I read in another thread that the hotspots on a flywheel can not be removed with resurfacing. My car is old (though only 120K) and I want to keep driving it for years, so I want the job done right; but the OEM flywheel is over $300.

Any other wisdom on best replacement clutch for stock? I have no need for increased clamping force, and with the reports of 5th gen OEM disks breaking I'd be inclined to go with the 4th gen--or was the disk the part that has been replaced so the 4th/5th 5MT parts are identical now anyway? Someone mentioned 2001 AE clutch as being even better...anyone know how?

What's the expected life of the axle seals? I had mine replaced in 2004 but that was only 40-45K miles ago. Are they really easy to do with the tranny dropped?

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

And a lot of people say Exedy OEM (as well as Stage 1) are great. The price sure is nice, but I wonder how it lasts compared to stock. Someone in another thread said Exedy OEM is equivalent to the dreaded Nissan "Key Value" parts.

Jsutter, which 5th gen parts did you use? Just the pressure plate? Any reason to think the extra clamping force would cause the clutch to be less reliable or annoying for a daily driver in any respect?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

If you have a machine shop you trust, go a head and resurface the original flywheel. It is a good idea to have (or quick access to) an upper oil pan to rear main seal gasket as well as the rear main seal just in case you have an oil leak. Same goes for the drive shaft seals in the trans.

While you are in there, inspect the slave cylinder for leaks, clutch fork/pivot ball for wear and condition of its retaining spring, and I'd replace the TOB retainers if your new clutch kit does not have them. I had to order mine separately since I did not buy a kit.

The only 5th gen part I used was the pressure plate. I'm not sure what the dealer still offers for part numbers. Mine are all listed here.

http://forums.maxima.org/2782694-post7.htm

Other members have used different part numbers and combinations of parts as well.

I don't see how more clamping would make much of a difference on longevity. I would think the material in the disc would have more of a factor on life. OEM stuff is made to last tens of thousands of miles under normal driving. Racing clutches don't last as long but can and do take more beating.

If your drive shaft boots are in good shape there is no real need to replace the whole shaft. If your boots are cracking but not torn you could replace the boots for cheap money. It is a dirty job and more time consuming. Most garages wont even rebuild a shaft anymore as new aftermarkets are under $100.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the advice! I'll have to ask my mechanic if/how they do flywheel resurfacing.

For years I had a noticeable squeak everytime I depressed my clutch pedal. Don't know if that indicates a problem with the TO bearing, the fork or slave, but then I had an incident with a car wash that may or may not be related to my serious clutch problems that started recently. (Full story here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-car-wash.html)

Much as I'd love to do the job myself, I no longer have off-street parking or any buddies nearby who are handy with cars, but I'm trying to diagnose as much as possible, order parts, and then take to a good shop.

S1cTech

Putting in a 5th gen clutch was one of the most dumb things I listened from this forum to do. It messed up a lot of things in my car. Motor mounts went quicker, Bearings in my tranni are louder from all that extra stress and shifts are much harder... but I did get a softer pedal which I hate anyway lol

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, I read your thread, but it sounds like you had other issues that could have been the source of your chatter. Did you have your flywheel resurfaced properly? I haven't seen anyone else complain about the 5th gen PP in a 4th gen (just a couple of people who had 5th gen discs break, but I'm going to use a 4th gen disc). I have ES poly motor mounts too, they're solid poly. the 5

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Correct link to JSutter's part numbers (4th gen disk and throwout bearing, 5th gen pressure plate = cover) http://forums.maxima.org/2782694-post7.html
I'm going to order these same parts.

One more question: I can't think of any need to drain/refill tranny oil when doing the clutch. Only if you change the axle seals, right?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

Oil will pour out of the drive shaft holes. Believe me I tried to save the fluid when swapping drive shafts. Boy did I make a mess.

95naSTA

iTrader: (10)

FWIW I have 35k on a stock replacement 01 AE clutch. 3.5 hybrid the whole time, 09 max/08 alti hybrid for almost the last 10k, and 15 track passes total.

*knocks on wood*

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Ah. So the drive axles have to come off for a clutch job? If so I'd better buy some more tranny fluid.

VQuick

iTrader: (17)

Finally got the job done by a shop that was recommended to me. I liked the mechanic and he seemed to know Nissan well. Replaced the following: all OEM parts: 5th gen pressure plate (cover), 4th gen disk, release bearing, and fork. Saved and reused my expensive Amsoil gear oil.

New clutch feels great--the 5th gen pressure plate must be quite different because it has a much better transition point for engagement. My old 4th gen clutch was tough to drive because the engagement range was so short. You had to be very careful when lifting your foot to avoid jerking. None of that now. The pedal pressure required might be a little lighter but I really like it. Have only driven the car a few miles but will report back with any updates.

Thanks to everyone in this thread for the information!