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FML, different kind of coolant leak.

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Old 08-16-2012, 08:12 PM
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FML, different kind of coolant leak.

Some of you may remember that after swapping my radiator out for a Koyorad, I was still experiencing coolant loss. While changing my oil today, I noticed a couple of spots of coolant on the passenger side of my AC pump bracket, and some dried coolant streaks on my bank 2 pre-cat. I followed it up to the source and I have to say, I'm not very happy.

Over a year ago I drained all the coolant out of my system and replaced it with old school green coolant. To drain the block I removed the front threaded "freeze plug". While Reinstalling it, I didn't have much room so I had a 1/2 drive socket with an adapter, and 3/8 ratchet, and I only had room to swing two clicks of the ratchet. I thought it may have been cross threading, but decided to drive it in all the way because I had no way to clean up the threads and start over anyway.

Well the plug is now leaking and I see no way to fix it short of driving a bit of round stock (aluminum) in and welding it. The worst part is it's my own fault. If only I had read the other way first and flushed it with distilled water rather than removing the plug.

If you have to remove this plug for any reason, remove the radiator first, and give yourself enough room not to screw it up.
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Old 08-16-2012, 08:56 PM
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Do you think that using plumber's pipe thread sealer might work?

I cross threaded a 3 inch pipe and used both the putty and teflon tape together and it worked. By themselves, the pipe would leak, but together they sealed. I put the putty on both the pipe nipple and the socket and the tape on the nipple.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DennisMik
Do you think that using plumber's pipe thread sealer might work?

I cross threaded a 3 inch pipe and used both the putty and teflon tape together and it worked. By themselves, the pipe would leak, but together they sealed. I put the putty on both the pipe nipple and the socket and the tape on the nipple.
Its not a tapered thread, so the tape would not even stao on the plug to go in.
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Old 08-16-2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by asand1
Its not a tapered thread, so the tape would not even stao on the plug to go in.
This may make me look stupid..

Maybe high temp rtv on whatever threads it has? Idk what the plug looks like so i don't really know
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Old 08-17-2012, 05:37 AM
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I admire you for going all out to get those drain plugs off......but is it really really necessary to flush the coolant? How much coolant would get left behind if you flush your coolant without touching those drain plugs?

I would rather change the coolant twice than go after those plugs.

DW
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Old 08-17-2012, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dwapenyi
I admire you for going all out to get those drain plugs off......but is it really really necessary to flush the coolant?
I would rather change the coolant twice than go after those plugs.
DW
I don't recommend removing them, and I would never do it again myself.
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Old 08-17-2012, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by styliztik
This may make me look stupid..

Maybe high temp rtv on whatever threads it has? Idk what the plug looks like so i don't really know
It resembles a giant oil plug with an aluminum sealing washer. It looks to be seated flush, but I really don't want to remove it because it might get worse.

Last edited by asand1; 07-02-2014 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:55 AM
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I think I have a better understanding of your predicament now and your reluctance to unscrew the plug. I know damaged aluminum threads tend to come out with the bolt. But when you are ready to tackle this leak, I'd try unscrewing the plug part way out and pack the space with RTV or something and screw it back in. Maybe the threads might hold.
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Old 08-17-2012, 10:32 AM
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JB Weld is your friend. I used the stuff on a cracked transfer case on my Explorer, still going strong 2 years later.
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
JB Weld is your friend. I used the stuff on a cracked transfer case on my Explorer, still going strong 2 years later.
This sounds like a good option. I originally used RTV and it didn't do so well. I added powdered alumaseal to the coolant on Wednesday, if it seals like people say it will then I will leave it alone.
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Old 08-17-2012, 12:40 PM
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Flex Seal


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Old 08-18-2012, 04:18 AM
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Yeah I would advise everyone from touching those plugs. They are only used for replacing head gaskets. Even when I took my 4th gen to the dealer for a coolant flush, they don't touch those plugs. They have a machine they connect that does a reverse flush by entering from high radiator hose and out the lower radiator hose.
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Old 08-18-2012, 07:29 AM
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though i'm not a fan of coolant system sealers, i've had success using bars liquid copper stop leak (on an impala with the infamous 3.8l intake manifold gasket leak) and blue devil head gasket sealant (the blue quart where you have to drain & flush system and remove the thermostat on a civic with a head gasket issue). if i were in your place, i'd probably try the bars first and if that didn't work, the blue devil. either way, after a successful treatment, i'd flush with water before filling up with good coolant again.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:01 PM
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Today I picked up another gallon of Prestone extended life, six gallons of distilled water, and 4 minute JB weld. In the process of flushing out the stop leak with hose water prior to removing the radiator and resealing the core plug. If the Threads are still good I will be using gasket/thread sealer and torquing the plug to spec.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:17 PM
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Wasn't there a TSB or notification to mechanics or something to that extent that said not to remove them for this exact reason? Once removed it will almost always leak when you put it back in..

Sorry I can't find what I'm referring to, tried a few searches, but I could have sworn I ran into when I was looking for the drain procedure for coolant. Mind you this was for a 5th gen but it's the same block anyway.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:00 PM
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Ok, threads were fine, the plug was not very tight though. I used Permatex Aviation form a gasket. and torqued the blug to 45ft/lb (43-48 per FSM).
Flushing the tap water out with distilled now, and I'll keep everyone posted as to the outcome.
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