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What type of ignition coils do i have

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Old 08-24-2012, 10:13 AM
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What type of ignition coils do i have

i have a 1999 maxima , need to replace a coil ... looking to find out what type of ignition coils i have .. or where do i look ???? please help .. she is running sadddddd
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:49 AM
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What do you mean by what type? You should have Nissan OEM 1999 ignition coils. Make sure the replacements you get are OEM and not cheap aftermarket knock offs.

Also, before replacing all of the coils, try unplugging them one at a time while the car is running and if there's no reaction from the engine (change in sound, shaking, etc ) then that's the one you need to replace.
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Old 08-24-2012, 10:53 AM
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Go with OEM Ignition Coils. You'll be sorry if you don't.
You got two options though; Mitsubishi or Hitachi. Take one of your coils and it will say either, Mitsubishi or Hitachi.
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Shift_A32B
Go with OEM Ignition Coils. You'll be sorry if you don't.
You got two options though; Mitsubishi or Hitachi. Take one of your coils and it will say either, Mitsubishi or Hitachi.
Does Mitsubishi still make these coils? If so, I would definitely try another set as my originals on my 95 gave out at almost 300K after replacing a few stems...They were the best...
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Old 08-25-2012, 07:44 PM
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I was a bit intrigued to see that the Beck Arnley coils on Rock Auto are listed as Hanshins, and they're a lot cheaper than dealer Hanshins obviously.
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Old 08-26-2012, 02:23 PM
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I've got the same problem except that cylinder number 6 is not firing. I pulled the plug on the coil to confirm. also switched coils and its still not firing. wat else should I do. I pulled the spark plug cleaned it off, and put it back in. still running rough.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:15 PM
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Make sure you got 12V and GND at #6 ignition coil harness with key in the ON position. In order to check the ECM output to the coil (3rd wire), you will need an oscilloscope.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
Make sure you got 12V and GND at #6 ignition coil harness with key in the ON position. In order to check the ECM output to the coil (3rd wire), you will need an oscilloscope.
well check engine light came on. code 0102 mass air flow sensor, 0401 intake air temp sensor, and knock sensor. she started running rough last night. I unplugged the maf while car was running, plugged it back in and it shut off. is it sopposed to do that? started bak up fine running rough. I cleaned the maf a few days ago, the car isn't stalling or anything jus not running like it should.
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Old 08-26-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
Make sure you got 12V and GND at #6 ignition coil harness with key in the ON position. In order to check the ECM output to the coil (3rd wire), you will need an oscilloscope.
well check engine light came on. code 0102 mass air flow sensor, 0401 intake air temp sensor, and knock sensor. she started running rough last night. I unplugged the maf while car was running, plugged it back in and it shut off. is it sopposed to do that? started bak up fine running rough. I cleaned the maf a few days ago, the car isn't stalling or anything jus not running like it should.
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Old 08-26-2012, 04:10 PM
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They don't all go back at the same time. If you get that many codes, I would check to see if 12V is ok.
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
They don't all go back at the same time. If you get that many codes, I would check to see if 12V is ok.
lol so u think my battery isn't putting out enough voltage? I will have it checked in the morning
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Old 08-26-2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
Make sure you got 12V and GND at #6 ignition coil harness with key in the ON position. In order to check the ECM output to the coil (3rd wire), you will need an oscilloscope.
a timing light will work also....
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
a timing light will work also....
LOL, I only have those high voltage inductive timing light. They must have a low voltage timing light now.
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Old 08-27-2012, 08:52 AM
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I didn't think you could change the timing on the vq. I don't get it, one minute its running good. then I go start it up and its running like s###!.
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Old 08-28-2012, 06:55 PM
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This is my story I have been going through alot of troubleshooting to get down to the problem and I am still having problems... I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima GLE

About a month ago I started experiencing some chugging with what seemed like some misfiring and general rough driveability. I could smell gas every now and then some other wierd smells every so ofter. This was very intermittent at first but as it continued to get worse I decided to have it all checked out. I pulled a "misfire cylinder 5" code and a manufacturers code that my mechanic did not know what it was.

At this point I changed all my spark plugs, and a coil pack on cylinder 5 and the problem did not fix itself... This was still an intermittent problem until a week or so later when the rough during idle started to get gradually worse, at this I point I also started to experience some hesitation during acceleration and my rpm would stick in first gear until I got up to speed and it would sort of go away...

After words I decided to have the codes pulled on a better scanner and this is what came up... P1105/P1130/P1320
I then had the codes cleared and I replaced intake gasket and plenum gasket. When I checked out the cylinder 5 I saw there was a bent prong so I took it back to autozone and had it replaced with a new one... and I replaced the muffler (which was starting to get loud)

Then I used a can of seafoam, Throttle body cleaner, gas supplements, changed the MAP sensor and did some other routine cleaning and maintenance and still had no luck... My symptoms are getting gradually worse (rough idle getting worse as the car was being driven, hesitation during acceleration and jump RPM's would jump around during acceleration and changing gears) This time also as I would come up to speed and kinda have to floor the gas to do so, and the check engine light started to flash (type A misfire). I also smelled some something that didnt smell like gas or "rotten eggs" but more like the aftersmell of fireworks/smokebombs...

After this I did some more troubleshooting with a can of starter fluid and I noticed it made my EGR valve act funky... So that was taken off cleaned (looked to be functioning fine) and put back on... I also decided to replace the rest of the coil packs because I know they are all known to go bad... I also addressed a small vacuum leak. Also I added tranny fluid (it was fairly low) and a bottle of lucas oil tranny additive.

After doing this my car started up and ran idle beautifully and I took it for a test drive... It drove great for about twenty minutes unlike the other times I replaced things and it would start acting up after about two minutes of driving... So I stopped by my mechanics house and told him I though I got to the bottom of it... when I took off to go home it started acting up right away... rough during idle (but not as bad as pre coil pack changes) still hesitation during acceleration especially in the low RPM and... It went away after driving it some more and then came back even worse... I would put the pedal all way to the floor and almost got no acceleration... My RPM would also kick up for a spllit second then fall back down and I was puttering up my driveway... at this point there is No check engine light... and NO FLASHING when I drove the car up to higher speeds... but did smell of something like what fireworks smell like when they get set off

IM LOST AND TERRIBLY FRUSTRATED
please dont be afraid to give a lengthy detailed answer of why I am stupid
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:28 AM
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I've got the same issue as u but I have a 95. idles like crap, the hesitation on acceleration and the shaky idle is driving me crazy. I think my number 5 fuel injector is dead. that may be your problem also.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jboogie216
This is my story I have been going through alot of troubleshooting to get down to the problem and I am still having problems... I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima GLE

About a month ago I started experiencing some chugging with what seemed like some misfiring and general rough driveability. I could smell gas every now and then some other wierd smells every so ofter. This was very intermittent at first but as it continued to get worse I decided to have it all checked out. I pulled a "misfire cylinder 5" code and a manufacturers code that my mechanic did not know what it was.

At this point I changed all my spark plugs, and a coil pack on cylinder 5 and the problem did not fix itself... This was still an intermittent problem until a week or so later when the rough during idle started to get gradually worse, at this I point I also started to experience some hesitation during acceleration and my rpm would stick in first gear until I got up to speed and it would sort of go away...

After words I decided to have the codes pulled on a better scanner and this is what came up... P1105/P1130/P1320
I then had the codes cleared and I replaced intake gasket and plenum gasket. When I checked out the cylinder 5 I saw there was a bent prong so I took it back to autozone and had it replaced with a new one... and I replaced the muffler (which was starting to get loud)

Then I used a can of seafoam, Throttle body cleaner, gas supplements, changed the MAP sensor and did some other routine cleaning and maintenance and still had no luck... My symptoms are getting gradually worse (rough idle getting worse as the car was being driven, hesitation during acceleration and jump RPM's would jump around during acceleration and changing gears) This time also as I would come up to speed and kinda have to floor the gas to do so, and the check engine light started to flash (type A misfire). I also smelled some something that didnt smell like gas or "rotten eggs" but more like the aftersmell of fireworks/smokebombs...

After this I did some more troubleshooting with a can of starter fluid and I noticed it made my EGR valve act funky... So that was taken off cleaned (looked to be functioning fine) and put back on... I also decided to replace the rest of the coil packs because I know they are all known to go bad... I also addressed a small vacuum leak. Also I added tranny fluid (it was fairly low) and a bottle of lucas oil tranny additive.

After doing this my car started up and ran idle beautifully and I took it for a test drive... It drove great for about twenty minutes unlike the other times I replaced things and it would start acting up after about two minutes of driving... So I stopped by my mechanics house and told him I though I got to the bottom of it... when I took off to go home it started acting up right away... rough during idle (but not as bad as pre coil pack changes) still hesitation during acceleration especially in the low RPM and... It went away after driving it some more and then came back even worse... I would put the pedal all way to the floor and almost got no acceleration... My RPM would also kick up for a spllit second then fall back down and I was puttering up my driveway... at this point there is No check engine light... and NO FLASHING when I drove the car up to higher speeds... but did smell of something like what fireworks smell like when they get set off

IM LOST AND TERRIBLY FRUSTRATED
please dont be afraid to give a lengthy detailed answer of why I am stupid
Sounds like you were overfueling, possibly a leaking injector. And now your cat is bad (rotten eggs/sulfur smell) and possibly plugged.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
I've got the same problem except that cylinder number 6 is not firing. I pulled the plug on the coil to confirm. also switched coils and its still not firing. wat else should I do. I pulled the spark plug cleaned it off, and put it back in. still running rough.

mines is also not getting any spark in clylinder 6 i change all spark plugs.
after i did the sparks plugs it stop misfiring then about 2 hours later its started again.

and this code is being throw
P0306-
cylinder 6 misfire detected
Probable cause -
weak missing spark
plugged fuel injector
engine mechanical fault
large vacuum leak specific to cylinder
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:43 AM
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I didnt read through the whole thing but have you checked if your IACV is working? By taking it apart and watching if the plunger goes in and out when you turn your key to power the electronics? I have the same issues and have yet to figure it out. I changed IACV's but the problem remains. I had some coil issues but I believe I solved those. Kind of stumped actually. Only thing left is injectors
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Old 09-04-2012, 04:25 PM
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[QUOTE=ShocknAwe;8595237]I didnt read through the whole thing but have you checked if your IACV is working? By taking it apart and watching if the plunger goes in and out when you turn your key to power the electronics? I have the same issues and have yet to figure it out. I changed IACV's but the problem remains. I had some coil issues but I believe I solved those. Kind of stumped actually. Only thing left is injectorsi wa


I was gonna do that but needed to take my girl to work also if i change the injectors I'm going bigger and I am also going to change cylinder 6 coil befor I mess with the injectors
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:34 PM
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my issue has kinda cleared up. it drives better then I also added sum fuel injector cleaner that brought the dead injector back to life at least for a little while, it. still misses like crazy at idle or when I come to a stop, if I put it in neutral the idle clears up. this symptom is I kno for a fact of a dying fuel injector, my 93 max used to do the exact same thing without coils on each cylinder. gonna change the injector on number 5 as soon as I order a new knock sensor and valve cover gaskets.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:03 AM
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now its weird cause mines is not misfireing nor is my car throwing any codes the only code my car is throwing is knock sensor and and EGR valve
- these cars are kinda funny cause my back valve cover gasket needs to be replaced to as well. i ordered all my parts i needed im going to make a video of before and after and put it on the forum u should do the same cause it seems like our cars have the same problems
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
LOL, I only have those high voltage inductive timing light. They must have a low voltage timing light now.
My coils are (Hanshin)s....I've use a normal timing light that's connected to the battery for power and has an inductive pickup....I have 3 timing light and all 3 work!
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