Need some help with my max
#1
Need some help with my max
Hey guys i have a 95 max 5sp. So I've been having these problems with my max for quite some time but never really got around to it until now that i can finally start putting money into her. My first problem is when ever i put my car in first gear my clutch will become very sticky when i am about to relase my clutch to start moving.my next problem is on my front driver side there is a very loud clinging noise Like keys clinging together when ever i go over bumps not sure if my ball joint is bad or something else. My last problem is when the car is idleing i can feal my car like hicuping and shaking not hard but i can feal it and am no sure what the problem is could it be my ignition coils? Knock sensor? I really want to get these things done before winter so i can have a smoother ride before i let her sit in the garage i dont want her to rust away in wisconsins over salted roads.
#2
1) clutch may be worn out, or contaminated by fluid leakage (either engine oil from rear main seal or tranny fluid). does it slip at all in 5th gear going up a hill?
2) most likely the stabilizer bar link is shot, there are metal cups that can rattle when the link is broken or badly worn.
3) start with common maintenance checks (air filter, spark plug condition, any check engine codes, clean throttle body, IACV, MAF, etc..)
2) most likely the stabilizer bar link is shot, there are metal cups that can rattle when the link is broken or badly worn.
3) start with common maintenance checks (air filter, spark plug condition, any check engine codes, clean throttle body, IACV, MAF, etc..)
#3
1) clutch may be worn out, or contaminated by fluid leakage (either engine oil from rear main seal or tranny fluid). does it slip at all in 5th gear going up a hill?
2) most likely the stabilizer bar link is shot, there are metal cups that can rattle when the link is broken or badly worn.
3) start with common maintenance checks (air filter, spark plug condition, any check engine codes, clean throttle body, IACV, MAF, etc..)
2) most likely the stabilizer bar link is shot, there are metal cups that can rattle when the link is broken or badly worn.
3) start with common maintenance checks (air filter, spark plug condition, any check engine codes, clean throttle body, IACV, MAF, etc..)
2)alrite ill check it out tomorrow when i clean my egr, replace ks, and o2
3)codes that come up are ks, right heated o2, evap purge valve, and egr. Will check spark plugs tomorrow as well but air filter looked fine.
#4
1)Nope no slip in 5th 1st gear is sticky about 75% of the time. All other gears are pretty good.
2)alrite ill check it out tomorrow when i clean my egr, replace ks, and o2
3)codes that come up are ks, right heated o2, evap purge valve, and egr. Will check spark plugs tomorrow as well but air filter looked fine.
2)alrite ill check it out tomorrow when i clean my egr, replace ks, and o2
3)codes that come up are ks, right heated o2, evap purge valve, and egr. Will check spark plugs tomorrow as well but air filter looked fine.
#5
Have you had a tuneup since buying the car? If not, replace fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs. What was the particular codes for the O2? The KS code is likey bunk and triggered by the O2 code. Search for EGR cleaning. You can check the evap valve by using jumper wires to the battery, if it clicks then try cleaning it out with brake cleen.
#6
I had clinking noises like you described, and finally figured out that it was the outer cap that goes on over the wheel nut and under the cotter pin (it's called an adjusting cap in the FSM). I took a short hunk of about 12 gauge stiff electrical wire and wrapped it around the threaded end of the axle under the cotter pin, so it put pressure on the adjusting cap and kept it from rattling. It's been quiet for years.
Well, at least that particular part has been quiet...
Well, at least that particular part has been quiet...
#7
I had clinking noises like you described, and finally figured out that it was the outer cap that goes on over the wheel nut and under the cotter pin (it's called an adjusting cap in the FSM). I took a short hunk of about 12 gauge stiff electrical wire and wrapped it around the threaded end of the axle under the cotter pin, so it put pressure on the adjusting cap and kept it from rattling. It's been quiet for years.
Well, at least that particular part has been quiet...
Well, at least that particular part has been quiet...
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