Engine wise?
PFTB is about it.
I have an SSIM sitting on a shelf, and full NWP set still needs installed.
Going to do both valve covers when I do that, so I have been putting that off a bit.
Low on funds too.

Happy just to have it back.

I'll get that O2 bung welded in and then figuring out my gauges will be the next step~need a laptop for that.

 

He has a JDM GTR TT Heated Jelly Injector

 

Power mods in general: intake, exhaust, etc, etc.

Just seeing how our setups are different because I'm tired of spinning through 2nd gear. I'm pretty sure my 225's are the culprit, though.

 

Popcharger with Amsoil filter with "berk" pipe,
eBay headers with egr deleted, warpspeed y, hiflo cat, and pacesetter catback.

I had 15" sawblades with performance all season and it wouldn't catch grab until halfway through 2nd.

I'm pretty sure cams and all are stock 3.5~
Someone else owned this before me and I have yet to get details, if any.

Oh, I have a 300zx fuel filter~is that even a mod?

Edit: Stage 2 clutch and one piece lw flywheel as well.

 

Oh...LSD helps too.

 

 

Looking good!

 

Thanks!!

I'm saving up for body and paint in the near future. <~within the next year if life allows.

Stay tuned.
Pun intended.

 

Planning on throwing in the Walbro and the 17mm clutch pedal spacer tomorrow.

Following another awesome org'er YouTube video for FP.
^^and yes I got a new ring gasket for the tank.

If I get to it, I'm going to wire up everything on my gauge pods other than powering the wideband because I'm awesome and lost the bung that came with the kit.
Still need a damn laptop too.

Already removed my a-pillar and cut/drilled for wires and mounting.~painted to match.
I'll edit in pics tomorrow. <~Check my album.

Kinda glad I waited on the install and asked some questions about it.

I was going to go with a test pipe for the wideband 02, but cost and sound do matter, so I'm going with the bung installed on the y-pipe.

The bung install prices did vary locally on the weld from $30-$60. Called 3 shops.

Fingers crossed.

 

bung can be had at pepboys.

 

Thanks.
Should be in the mailbox today or Monday.

There isn't a pepboys close to me/or a harbor freight. Damn Kansas.

Anyways, here is some car ****:

 

Gonna fiberglass them in?and thats some fancy grass you got growing there

 

Painted the push tabs too.

Haven't ever had to mow it.

 

Wow I've missed so much! Looking good!

 

^^ Thank you!

Plenty more to come.

 

 

One of my favorites of the front/fogs only.

 

I need to do that rewire

 

Me too...

 

Lookn Great I like that pillar.

 

Thank you.
I can't wait to get it all wired up with my gauges.
Saving for a laptop to do it right.

 

My favorite mod right behind the cc always on mod.

 

I didn't want to say anything until I figured it out, but my car has been down for a few weeks now.

It was the MAF...again.
Glad I had a spare.

I went WOT the day it starting acting up.
It died on me as soon as I let off the gas coming off the highway.
Started back up every time, but wanted to die.
I had to keep feathering the throttle to keep it running.

It chugged and even backfired as I pulled into some neighborhoods to try to diagnose it or park it, then all the sudden it was fine again.

I limped it to my parents to leave it until I came up with some cash for a code scanner.

The car ended up being in their way so I moved it and figured I would try to lap it around the block.
Stalled and died before I even made it to the end of the street.
Started right back up, but idled LOW.
I smashed the gas to the floor..no response at all.
I restarted it at least 4x just trying to make it around the block with it bucking and idling low again. When I finally made it back I revved it up and it did the 2400 bounce and died again.

Finally, a tell tale sign.
It still wanted to mess with my mind a little though, because when I started it again it revved high just fine. Lol

Another MAF is in, and I'm back to chirping 3rd.

I opened up the bad MAF just to see if I could find a weak solder point, but it looks good.
I may reheat all the points just for a spare to try if/when this other used MAF goes.

I'm guessing once these go bad they're trash though.

 

Yup - no fixing them, either. Don't make the mistake of buying a generic MAF - just OEM parts here. I have hot spares ready to go if needed, although spraying a suspect MAF with MAF cleaner can't hurt - and might help. I recently blew the screen off one and it didn't hurt the MAF at all. (nitrous backfire after newest UIM) - but I have that fixed as of tonight. Whoo -eee!

 

Yeah..I made the aftermarket mistake once, but lucked out and was able to return it.

Funny you said that about the screen.
This spare I put in is missing the screen and doing fine.

I had just cleaned the last one when I put on a dry filter cone maybe 1k ago..so it's toast.
The popcharger came with a k&n type oily filter.
I ditched that and went with amsoil.

Thanks for the input!!!

 

I did a code less 3.5 swap in a 99 as long as you hook up ever sensor you'll be good!

 

Or just get a '95 fed spec ECU.

 

^^and a eu.

All I need is Suratt's pnp and I'm ready!!

 

I found a "local" performance shop in KCK and asked them how much for the install of two gauges and a bung welded into my y-pipe.

Guy said minimum $450. DAFQ?! Said it's usually $150 each gauge and he would need to drop the y to install the bung. ~even though I have all the parts.

Yeah...I think I'll just go up the street and get it welded in for $30 here in town and then buy some fishtape for around $20ish and do this myself.
What. A. Ripoff.

The only thing that has me scratching my head is the lc-1 through the firewall.

I had planned on using the rear o2 plug cover to route the wiring through, but that's where my brain stops working.

Is there enough wire~the huge lc1 connector I'm sure isn't meant to be outside the cabin/how, or where do I get though the firewall to the cabin from there?

 

You can buy a code reader from amazon for less than $50. Maxi scan.m5509 was $43 and was recommended by a 35 year mechanic

 

You have no idea what I'm talking about.
........
Problem solved anyways.
Thanks grey99max!!

 

Input shaft bearing is going out.
Time for me to save for a 6 speed swap now. Not too happy and very

 

 

 

Hey buddy, glad your car is swapped.

When we were doing mine, we found the Input shaft bearing on my 5MT was shattered. Had to rebuild it before putting everything back together.

6MT is a good idea.

How's the car feel? Any idea on how much power its making?

 

It's fun, but things keep popping up.
No dyno, so no idea.

I hear some of the parts needed for a 4th gen 6mt swap are hard to come by..so I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
Money is real tight right now too.
Destined to be parked soon while I save money and/or collect parts.

Neverending.

 

Not really. Buy a Maxima 6spd Bellhousing and maxima shifter cables then search Car-Parts for Sentra everything the shifter, transmission mounts etc. all specV trans have LSD, and they go for $300 all the time.

Now if you were on boost then yea its going to be hard and expensive because you would want the Maximas Longer gears vs the sentras short ones. But i have said it before the Sentras gears plus the VQ35 in a 4th gen chassis really wakes the car up. The VQ35 is step 1, a 6spd is step 2.

 

Just make sure you use 5th gen passenger axles... dont ask crusher and I how we know

 

So I don't need 5.5 specific parts for some of it?

The list I have is:

02+ 6spd maxima transmission. <~I've heard I can get Sentra, but would have to swap the bell housing.
5.5 gen 6spd maxima shifter assembly
5.5 gen 6spd maxima shifter cables
6spd drivers side axle<~heard OEM only
6spd pass axle*<~so 5th gen?
6spd frame trans mount<~heard impossible to find.
6spd transmission mount
6spd flywheel
6spd clutch
5spd timing ring<~I'm told mine won't work..?
6spd starter
6spd slave cylinder

 

Do the spec v swap, my car was a beast with it and the 3.5 even untuned