theWalkinator

96 Max 170k miles. Had EGR problems and I fixed that so I dropped car in Firestone for inspection. Just got call from Firestone, the emission is fine, however, front right tire worn down to the second layer due to bad tie rod, and rear driver side strut/shock is bad too and needs to be replaced. The tie rod does not required to be replaced for inspection purpose, however, it needs to be replaced anyway, otherwise, it will just wear the tire. I was quoted for $500+ for replacing both rear struts, and $125 for replace a new tire. I told the Firestone I will do that myself and within 14 days bring the car back and I will not be charged for re-inspection.

So, I got couple of questions to ask:

1. Should I buy complete assembly of rear struts with coil (coilover) or just strut with the old coils? I can get coil compressor for cheap from Harbor Freight. Are ebay struts any good? Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-2-REA...806e01&vxp=mtr
2. How hard is to replace the tie rods?

Thanks

nissan99

If you want to save time buy the monroe econo matic complete strut assembly i paid 89.95 for one and order it from autoparts 123 on the web free shipping on orders over 50$ and you will get 10% discount on new purchases . I just replaced mine on my 99 not hard at all you get brand new springs with it already done just bolt in ..just make sure you put a jack under the cross bar of the back suspension it will support it from falling down when you take the bottom bolt out on the strut ..don't let firestone do anything ,i would not even take my go-cart there....and as of know autoparts 123 are having problems with there website..

theWalkinator

Thanks. searched autoparts 123 site, told me the parts I am searching for (struts/shocks) are not stocked.

Just got the car back, there are few more problems besides struts and tie rods:
1. Coolant leak near passenger side of engine bay. I notice that last year, it leaks a little only when in the very cold morning, in warmer days, it never leaks. Could it be the hose? But Firestone said they need to run pressure test to tell.
2. Belts, either tension needs to be adjust or belt needs to be replaced. The belt does produce squeezy noise when engine starts but go away after few seconds.

theWalkinator

Should I replace only inner tie rod end or both inner and outer tie rod end?

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

you should inspect the linkage yourself. most likely you should just buy the control arm kit and replace it all while youre in there.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

If the emissions were OK, why didn't they put a passing sticker on the car?
The only other item I could see them failing you on might be the tire. And if that is/was the case, have them put a new tire on it and a passing sticker.

theWalkinator

No, the rear left strut is bad too which is consider safety issue as well in PA so I have to have it replaced, and putting new tire without fixing inner tie rod will still result wearing on the outside rim of the tire so I told them don't put new tire on before I fix the tie rod.

nissan99

as soon when autoparts123 get back up and running order thru them you will like the prices i also called the 1800 number still can not get thur ..and yes replace the tie rods inner and outer and then you may need a alignment good luck and let me know

theWalkinator

At this age of the car, everything seems falling apart. The antenna is broken too, cannot extend or retract, hearing the motor turning noise. I unscrewed the retaining cap and tried to pull the antenna out while radio is on, it seems the mast is stuck and I cannot pull it out. How can take the entire assembly out?

theWalkinator

Also looking to buy a backup car, I have my eyes on 2001 ~ 2003 BMW 530i or 540i, does anyone own one and has any opinions about the bimmer? I saw a really nice 2001 low mileage (68k) 540i, asking for 8K, however it has R title, according to the owner, it has a minor front collision but the air bags deployed, rendering it R title.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

if you thought a couple little problems on your maxima was everything falling apart, youre not gonna like what you get buying an old bmw 5 series....

maxima2fst4u

dont buy a beemer u think parts for the maxima is hight wait till u have to get in ***** deep in sensors and junk..its not worth it plus my maxima has no problems busting some of the newer beemers my buddie has the 530i and cant touch me but besides that your just buying name like a caddy there nice but expensive...and word of advice move somewhere that u dont have inspections...in ky u can litteraly drive with just headers and not get pulled over untill after 9pm...but its nice not have to worry about that junk idk why there so concerned anyways our world is already F***** anyways so why care u know lol

vgq2

iTrader: (1)

If you just need something to drive on then get those pre-assembled strut/coil setups and throw them on. Just a note though you get what you pay for in suspension as many people will tell you so I opted just to go with an aftermarket setup (Tokiko HP/Tein H-Tech) that was had for just over 500 including springs, struts, bellows BNIB. Just saying to evaluate your goal first so you spend your money smarter.

[s3]

iTrader: (1)

BMW OEM parts will make you wish you didn't get a BMW.

maxima2fst4u

agreed!!!!

theWalkinator

Hurricane Sandy makes used car price jumped up $1000 per.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the motor is running, that means that the nylon cord inside the antenna shaft is broken. You can buy just the antenna shaft. I don't know why you can't pull the antenna up if I am correct about the nylon cord.

To take the entire antenna assembly out, remove the trim panel in the trunk and you will see the antenna motor. Unplug the electric wires, unplug the antenna cable, couple of bolts as well as the retaining cap and the motor is out. I had to take the cover off of my motor to get the broken nylon cord out so I took the time to clean and re-grease the moving parts.

I bought my replacement mast from these people. Good prices, excellent on-line videos, telephone support. Glad I found them.

http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Nissa...01995-1999.htm

Max_Gator

You aren't going to like what I'm going to tell you . . . but having recently gone through this on both my maximas . . . you probably SHOULD replace just about your entire front suspension.

- outer and inner tie rods, lower control arms with ball joints, endlinks.

I can pretty much guarantee you that everything is shot. They told you about the outer tie rod because the boot on it is probably leaking along with the obvious tire wear issue.

I did all the work myself on both cars and it is really no fun. But I saved a bunch.

Obviously, cost is an issue. So, I wouldn't suggest doing the inner unless they are damaged and preventing alignment. If a shop is doing the job, there isn't that much labor to get to the inner tie rods - even where the outers are basically frozen on. They can put it up on a lift and get leverage very easily.

You are better off replacing BOTH sides outer tie rods.

Whatever you do on one side I would suggest doing to the other.

Just remember that new parts will put a real strain on old worn out parts and it will definitely impact the car's handling.

Short answer: don't do the inners or do it all.

Max_Gator

The retaining cap is on the exterior. You will note that it has two slots, use needle nose pliers in the slots to turn it.

Before you buy a mast, take the antenna out and see if you can get the mast out. I could not get it out no matter what. So, got one at the junkyard.

theWalkinator

Just replaced both rear struts, I got them from eBay, per-assembled coilovers, brand name is StrutTek, made in China, not sure how good they are but the quality looks just fine to me. I spent about 2 hours to get both side replaced and then I take the car for a ride, feel much better now. Here are some pictures:

theWalkinator

Thanks for the info, I will deal with that after I fix the tie rod thing to get inspection passed.

theWalkinator

Yesterday I went to a tire place to get a used tire that has enough thread to pass the inspection. When the guy there took the front driver side wheel off, I looked at the tie rod, they seems to be fine, I tried to jiggle the rotor, didn't detect any movement, however, the sway bar looks like has some issue, the rubber padding to the control arm seems to be in bad shape, but that won't make the wheel out of alignment, right? Firestone guy said it is the inner tie rod and I ordered two inner tie rods and they just arrived few minutes ago, so I guess I need to replace inner, outer tie rods, the sway bar link end altogether?

theWalkinator

OK, I jack up the car and take a look on both sides tie rods, the drive side seems to be fine, however, on the passenger side, the rubber boot is broken and the all joints of inner tie rod has no grease on it, it is definitely bad one and needs to be replaced. See the picture below:

theWalkinator

It was the rubber rack and pinion bellow boot broken.

theWalkinator

Do you really need special inner tie rod tool to do the job?

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

you should only need a ball joint seperator

Max_Gator

You absolutely need a special tool. I got mine at O'reilly. if I recall correctly, the one at auto zone does not fit correctly.

There are some threads on here about the job and I highly recommend this video for the inner tie rod replacement: http://youtu.be/JNC5U9H7wAY

I meant to do a writeup with a few tips I figured out but didn't. So . . . an abbreviated version (tools in bold):

1. This is a very dirty job. use plastic gloves, long sleeves and long pants.

2. I would also suggest that you get some cardboard to put down on your driveway, or it will become a greasy stained mess.

2.5 Look at the one of the writeups on this site regarding getting the outer tie rod loose from the steering knuckle. You don't need the puller, although it wouldnt hurt. Basically, you loosen the nut holding it to the knuckle and then bang on the knuckle with a hammer right where the tie rod is attached. This will pop the outer tie rod loose.

3. Hard part 1 - getting the outer tie rod off. (Good video: http://youtu.be/jFXfcM325ss pmohr is on this forum and makes great vids)

- You will need to soak the lock nut with pb blaster or something of the like.
- Leave the outer tie rod loose in the knuckle.
- The lock nut is loosened by turning it CLOCKWISE on both sides - that turns it toward the engine.
- To turn the lock nut, you are going to need an adjustable wrench. I don't recall the size of the nut, but I have a 19mm wrench and it didn't fit.
- You will most likely have to bang on the wrench with a hammer to get the lock nut to move. If you are lucky, it will move. If not keep trying pb.
- Once you get the lock nut loose - then comes the real fun part . . . getting the outer tie rod loose from the inner.
- take the outer out of the steering knuckle.
- You will need two wrenches. the adjustable on the outer tie rod and a 13mm (I think) on the inner - you will see where it goes.
- This is the absolute hardest part of the job IMO. You need to play around until you can wedge the wrench on the inner against something to get leverage to turn the wrench on the outer. You will swear and likely need the hammer and lots of pb. It loosens COUNTERCLOCKWISE.
- Once the outer is loose, count the turns to remove and write down for installation.

4. Hard Part 2 - getting the inner off. Watch the video
My tips
- Get the boot off enough so you can get the tie rod tool onto the tie rod. I simply tore mine apart with screwdriver and pliers. It will be easier to get the back of the boot off the steering rack once the inner tie rod is out.
- You probably don't need to pry off the lock washer like in the video. If you can get the tie rod tool seated you can probably break it loose with the lock nut on there. I did it.
- To do that you should use either a breaker bar on the tie rod tool, or get a long pipe to put over the handle of your ratchet for leverage. Just use force and the washer should give and the tie rod will turn.
- If you can't get the tie rod tool on, then follow the instructions on the video to pry off the washer.
- The side of the boot closest to the steering rack will be held on with wire or a pain in the *** clamp. Rather than try to loosen them, I used a large pair of needle nose pliers to pry it off. Or for the clamp, I used a large flat screwdriver and hammer to stretch it, then pulled it off.
- INSTALLATION: the biggest pain in the *** is getting the boot ON. Ultimately, I made 4 small cuts on the end of the boot, got a small flat screwdriver, stuck the screwdriver between the boot end and the spot where it mounts, then kept turning the boot until I got it on.
- I also ended up using high temp zip ties to hold the boot on.

These are tips that I figured out which really helped with the job. Not meant to be a comprehensive writeup.

Max_Gator

Yes, replace them all at once if doing the inners. Makes no sense not to. Once you get them off and compare them to new parts, you will see that the outer and inners are shot.

Also, you MUST get an alignment ASAP. And I don't mean in a week or two. You need one immediately because tire damage happens very very quickly.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Easy fix! Purchase a used tire too pass inspection! then you fix your own problem dude!

theWalkinator

Yes, that is what I did, got a used tire for $35.

theWalkinator

Thanks for the great info. I have outer tie rods and boots on order, should be coming early next week.

theWalkinator

I got lifetime free alignment package at Firestone so they will do that when reinspect the car. Thanks.

theWalkinator

Just realized the inner rod I ordered does not come with the special anti-slip washer, it that something I can get from Autozone?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

You mean the locking tab? Partsgeek.com might have it!

theWalkinator

I don't know what it is called, but it is a washer with two tabs in side of the hole to lock the inner rod from getting loose, so it might be called locking tab. searched partsgeek.com didn't find it.

theWalkinator

The outer tie rods arrived today and I am going to install them tomorrow. The tie rod I ordered comes with a Nylon Insert Lock Nut instead the slotted nut and split locking pin. The tie rod shaft does not have a whole for slotted nut neither. So it the nylon insert lock nut to be able to perform as the good as the slotted and pin nut if not better?

theWalkinator

Inspection passed! Yesterday I spend few hours to get both side inner and out tie rods replaced, I rented inner tie rod tool from Advanced Auto Parts, took me about 1 hour to remove old one on both side, putting back it more difficult than I thought, first, the inner tied rod locking washer with tabs did not come with the inner tie rods I ordered, went to Advanced Auto Parts, Auto Zone and a local auto part store, none of them carry those locking washers, so I came back home and tried to forge the old ones back to as flat as possible to reuse, somewhat I was able to do that. The most difficult part was putting the rubber boots on, especially on passenger side, the opening of new boot is little smaller than the collar and there is no space to easily work on, even underneath the car, it is not accessible so I have to use one hand pushing and rotating it like screwing it on, it took me a good 30 minutes just to put one boot one and zipper tie it. Putting tires back, I then drove the car straight to Firestone for re-inspection, of course the alignment is off even I made same number of turns when putting out tie rods back. This morning, I got the call from Firestone, the car passed inspection. Now, there are few other issues that non-inspection related: 1. Seasonal coolant leak, in the very cold morning, I can see small puddle of coolant underneath front of the engine on passenger side, I noticed this leak last winter but in the spring, summer and fall, no leaks. Not sure what is it, Firestone want run a pressure test. From the location, I guess it is the water pump? Maybe the seal is bad and in cold weather, seal shrinks causing leak? 2. Belt tension, creating high pitch squeal noise in the mornings especially when weather is hot, this could be belt tension issue? 3. Exhaust pipe rusted, no leaking yet, but is rusted between cat converter and muffler. Any advices to address above issues? I will also change fuel filter today or tomorrow.

theWalkinator

Just changed fuel filter, took some effort to take it out of hoses, I have to remove air box to gain more room to access the fuel filter, the hoses kind of stuck on old fuel filter's two end pipes so I have to use pliers to hold the hose and rotate the old fuel filter back and forth to get it loose, and with a little force, pull the hose out. Install new filter is a breeze. I don't remember when the last time the fuel filter has been changed, and the old filter does not look very dirty and it is OEM Nissan filter but since I have already take it out, I just put the new one in. Hope this will make the engine run smoother.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

mind pointing me to the seller you got these from ? pm me the link please

theWalkinator

OK, I moved over to tackle the power antenna, after I take out everything, open the cover of the motor, then found out that the plastic rod is broken in several pieces and stuck between the gears. Went to Advanced Auto Parts and AutoZone, none of them carry replacement mast for Maxima, so I put everything back but did not connect the power to the antenna, then went back inside ordered a mast from you know where, eBay, but I didn't pay much attention of where the seller is located, after the won the bid, I realized that the seller is in Hong Kong and will ship from overseas, oh well, does not really matter, just have to wait few more days longer to get the replacement mast.