well it came to the conclusion why my car is hesitating sometimes.... I ran the ses light and had a knock sensor code, which will reduce engine performance. Do you guys think this would be a good buy?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Nissan-In...d4104d&vxp=mtr

 

i bought one from ebay. 6 bones shipped. i got my moneys worth it was a world of difference

 

can't say anything about ebay parts. i got mine at rock auto. but to be sure it was the KS, i went to radio shack and got a 460k ohm resistor, disconnected the KS harness, and bypassed everything with the resistor. code can be cleared and was able to pass state inspection. This gave me time to replace the KS for good. I have a post somewhere here that describes how i did it. good luck.

 

ya i was thinking about getting the cheaper ones.. do they work just as good? if so ill just buy that

 

Was this your only code?

 

the cheap chinese ks on ebay are not worth their price; if you can get oe nissan, beck arnely or other quality aftermarket, that's ok.

 

It was the KS code and the rear o2 sensor

 

The KS code may be bogus, triggered by the o2 code. If you plan to replace the o2 sensor, do it first and see if the KS code clears.

 

O2 sensor code is exhaust oxygen content related and not related to KS. I dont see how an O2 code would trigger a false KS code. KS measures engine knock by sensing the noise differential in the intake manifold. KS replacment is cheap to do and since these are common complaints with these cars i would recommend doing it anyway.

 

^this guy doesn't understand that the KS code will ghost with nearly half the CEL codes

 

They seem to work fine for everybody in the EBAY KS thread

 

If there is a fault with the O2 sensor this will cause the ECM to change the amount of fuel delivered to the engine. The ECM will try and compensate because its not receiving proper information. The engine most certainly could run RICH or LEAN. Could this 'not normal' condition cause a check engine light....yes. This can lead the ECM to throw other codes which are FALSE. In order to find the problem you need solid evidence, a scan tool which can read real time parameters. Most professionals use these. Computers read in binary language..0's and 1's....back to DIY auto repair school now.......thanks for reading

 

I saw a thread last week, this guy was pushing genuine OEM Nissan KSensors for $40 a pop.. brand new. Been looking for the thread all over to see if he has any more but can't find it. Does anybody here know who I'm talking about?

Need to switch out my KS asap to pass inspection.. already caught a $65 ticket in a GARAGE at work.. wtf.

 

The rear o2 sensor has no bearing on your AF ratio. It simply monitors catalytic converter efficiency.
Nearly all codes on the 4th Gen will trigger a false code for the KS.

 

The o2 would throw a ks code as well......i swapped mine out for a bag one and i tell u...it made a big difference.....
Before i kept up with a stock 240sx and after swapping it out, i kept up with is300 manual. And mpg went up.

 

that was me; they were $35; they're all gone.

 

work fine is a relative term; they do NOT work optimally (my timing is more advanced with the genuine nissan than with the el cheapo ebay chinese crapola that i first tried in an attampt to save some $). they're cheap for a reason! i have not seen the ebay ks thread but i will venture to guess that everyone says that the code is gone & (maybe) "it feels better". check timing advance with old/broke oe ks, new ebay cheap chinese ks & new oe ks and you'll see that timing is more advanced with the new oe (or probably likewise with quality aftermarket ks's also) & hence, more power. it still gets me that people spend some significant $ to get the most from these cars (ie run premium grade fuel, power/handling mods) and then screw themselves with a cheap chinese ks that keeps them from getting maximum power. you don't always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get.

 

hunh??? the knock sensor does'nt throw a code. explain

 

I've had this one in my car for 8+ months now...no issues http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-KA24D...abf694&vxp=mtr

 

^I have bought this one for one or two of my cars and worked great.

 

I also ordered a knock sensor from eBay. I actually got it today. It looks good. I havnt installed yet. I'll let you know how it goes once I get it installed.

 

Aw, would you happen to have any sources for a genuine ks at a similar price?



I mean I have my CEL on because of p1320 but my mechanic told me the knock sensor wouldn't let me pass inspection even if it doesn't trigger a cel? Is that true?

 

We have inspection here, Ive never had any problems with a KS code causing me to FAIL.....BUT that P1320 will instaFAIL you.

 

Ooh gotcha! Thanks. I just noticed last night that the rear 3 of my coils are hanging on 1 screw each and the top screws are missing. One of the coils seems too have a stripped screw though, like it's completely gone but the bottom of the screw is stuck inside.. I'm thinking that's why I get p1320... I hope I can take care of this

 

The knock sensor will throw a code, the code WILL NOT turn on the CEL.
If the KS code is present when inspection checks your ECU for emissions you will fail. Not all state inspections are the same. Your results will vary...

 

My bad KS lit up the CEL and that was the only code. Pulled KS and it had a crack in it. Put in new KS and CEL turned off.

This will be a never ending debate as to the KS triggering the CEL but I am here to say IT WILL light up the CEL by itself cause it happened to me.

 

Id go to amazon, haven't been disappointed with any part and they have the best return policy on the net . a 12mm hinge socket with two feet of extensions and a magnet , good luck .

 

yup i changed my buddies knock sensor in a mcdonalds parking lot one night during the summer when we were bored.. took 20 minutes, i used 3 extensions a universal joint and a 12mm socket. does the trick

 

A knock sensor is a fairly cheap to replace part compared to an engine repair which can cost you thousands of dollars.

 

I realize this is an old thread recently resurrected, but i couldnt justify making a new thread for this question.

I've been suspecting my KS is bad or on its way out the door for a few months. I get hesitation around 2300-3000 rpm in 2nd and 3rd (96 5mt). The rpm's rise but there is no increase in power/pull pull until i hit 2800-3kish, and sometimes hits with a "thud". Replaced it about 2 years ago with OEM ks. No code, just some bad hesitation that is very annoying.

Should note i have an 02 code with a brand new denso unit. Replaced OEM 02 with denso and same code came back. No lean/rich codes or fouling of plugs.

Any input welcome. Thanks

96 5mt SE
2.5in custom Y
2.5 inch mendrel B
91 Octane shell
TB,egr,UIM,LIM all cleaned recently.

Edit- KS reads 530k ohm, well within spec. So im leaning towards the 02, But can a bad 02 cause hesitation like that? I imagine the a/f ratio being off a little bit would cause hesitation at a certain rpm. She pulls great in open loop (pedal to floor or above 3k rpm) but the hesitation below 3k and light throttle is bad.

 

Your KS code comes up because of the oxygen sensor code. Fix the oxygen and you are good to go.

 

Ty but i have no code for KS, Just 02 sensor which is a brand new denso unit about 2 weeks old.