Im changing my water pump, and while trying to remove the pump, the ears broke off.

Any suggestions to remove the pump? I cant get anything in there to pry really...

 

The ears broke because you turned the bolt too much on one side?

 

I hand tightened the bolts until I felt some resistance, and then switched back and forth every half turn-ish(Hard to be exact when you can only get a little bit turned each time).


Thats pretty much irrelevant though, as I have broken the ears off, and need to get it out.

How much work is it to get the timing cover off? I couldnt find a write up.

 

I think book time is about 12 hours to remove and instal out timing cover on a 3.0. Bit of a pain job, very little room to work.

 

did you make sure to remove the timing chain tensioner & turn back the crank so that you disengage the timing chain from the water pump???

 

Yes, I did back off the chain.

 

Yup remove the timing cover which is roughly 20 bolts and then will need to buy some silicone and reseal. While you are there, you might as well replace the tensioner and guide if you have not put on the revised one yet.

 

maybe try to hook a 2 or 3 arm puller onto the timing chain gear thingy on the water pump and then pry on the puller setup.

 

Say what? I would be absolutely amazed that someone was able to do that successfully with the engine still in the car.

 

i'd be impressed also! but he asked for suggestions and i felt that this was possibly doable.

 

ok, you do it first then.....

 

if i break the ears off my wp while removing it, i will

 

Yeah, no puller would have fit. Otherwise I have a slide hammer that would have done perfect. I ended up having it towed to a mechanic friend of mines shop. He was able to fight it out. I owe him rather largely.

 

Do I need to pry it out or should I remove timing chain cover or could I come in from the back?

 

This happened to me a couple years ago, the ears broke off of the water pump. I could not find any method of removal so I created my own. I removed the passenger side motor mount, the lower cradle bolts (front and back) with jack underneath, and only left the transmission side mount on. Checked all the wires for clearance and I eventually had to stand on the engine to get it in view of the right wheel well (careful not to pinch the axle boot, pad with towel if necessary). Also make sure the timing chain has clearance of the pump.

I used a slide hammer with a short piece of uni-strut and two 4" 1/4x20 bolts. Secure the slide hammer in the middle like a T. Heads toward the pump secured to the uni-strut with 4 nuts and 4 fender washers. Hooked the gear with the bolt heads and tightened onto the gear with another couple of nuts. tightened everything in place. After a couple slams outward with the slide hammer the water pump broke free and pulled out. I will try to attach a picture of the tool I used(made).

View of engine/pump through wheel well
View of engine hanging out of car
Picture of tool (slide hammer, uni-strut, toggle bolts and fender washers 1/4x20 nuts)
Close up of gear attachment end

Disclaimer: Use this method at your own risk. It worked for me but clearly took some creativity.

 

Thanks for the tip, MaxDiddy. I was able to use a similar technique but pried it out with the handle of my jack instead of using a slide hammer.
http://imgur.com/fUiII0J

I still have a problem though... I have a broken bolt that I've been unable to extract - the one that goes through the top hole in the water pump. Anyone have advice on whether I should attempt to attach the new water pump with only the lower and side bolts?