Toast?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 57
From: Tuscon, AZ
Toast.
I've been thinking of an alternative -- I can replace the oil pump myself no problem. But, I'm not so sure about the rest.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
Originally Posted by Me (Initial Post)
97 SE:
About a year ago, the CEL has been on for getting some emissions valve and water canister but I was told these didn't have to be addressed unless I lived in an area where there were city laws for emissions.
About a month and a half ago, the engine started making a really loud knocking-type sound for the past month or month and a half. The sound was on while I idled and also followed along with the revving, getting louder. A few weeks after this started, the oil pressure light would flicker on and off while I was driving. Eventually, it became solid.
I drove to walmart for an oil change. After hearing the sound, they refused to do the oil change and said it sounded like rods and that it would cost a minimum of 1.5 to 2K to have someone open up the engine. They also said the oil levels were fine. Even though it's in more than decent shape visually, I wasn't prepared to spend that amount of money on a car I believed to have a resale value of maybe $800-1K. The front windshield is cracked on the passenger side and the leather on the driver's side is worn, so I said **** it... I'll just drive it till it drives no more.
In this time, the area where the pedals are gets really warm when I drive for a while, sometimes so hot I have to move my feet away to cool off for a few seconds.
Two days ago I was driving on the interstate and hear a low-pitch screeching sound coming from the front of the car that would come up every 30 or so minutes.
The beginning of this and two weeks ago, the knocking sound got louder and louder, and seemed to compound after a while (like more than one thing was knocking against something).
Yesterday, I started her up in a parking lot and ran her through the different gears (don't ask why), then I placed it in park and let it idle for a few seconds while I was looking for something in the car. The engine suddenly shut off.
I tried to start it repeatedly with no success. The engine tries to turn over but it doesn't make the final "firing" sound.
I started using the search function to see if anyone has experienced anything similar and to see if this was recoverable or not and found this:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ine-video.html
The sound I got was like that but more loud.
I saw this and thought "this looks legit."
Is this he right?
IS SHE GONE?
--- UPDATE 01/12 ---
Interesting new development. Yesterday, I asked an officer give me a jump and it sounded closer to being able to start instead of chugging after a 3rd or 4th try. It's possible the alternator went out (I know the battery itself isn't an issue since it's new) or there is something else in between the battery and starting. What could this be specifically?
There's a chance that an issue unrelated to what I posted initially came up and is the cause of this problem. Thoughts?
About a year ago, the CEL has been on for getting some emissions valve and water canister but I was told these didn't have to be addressed unless I lived in an area where there were city laws for emissions.
About a month and a half ago, the engine started making a really loud knocking-type sound for the past month or month and a half. The sound was on while I idled and also followed along with the revving, getting louder. A few weeks after this started, the oil pressure light would flicker on and off while I was driving. Eventually, it became solid.
I drove to walmart for an oil change. After hearing the sound, they refused to do the oil change and said it sounded like rods and that it would cost a minimum of 1.5 to 2K to have someone open up the engine. They also said the oil levels were fine. Even though it's in more than decent shape visually, I wasn't prepared to spend that amount of money on a car I believed to have a resale value of maybe $800-1K. The front windshield is cracked on the passenger side and the leather on the driver's side is worn, so I said **** it... I'll just drive it till it drives no more.
In this time, the area where the pedals are gets really warm when I drive for a while, sometimes so hot I have to move my feet away to cool off for a few seconds.
Two days ago I was driving on the interstate and hear a low-pitch screeching sound coming from the front of the car that would come up every 30 or so minutes.
The beginning of this and two weeks ago, the knocking sound got louder and louder, and seemed to compound after a while (like more than one thing was knocking against something).
Yesterday, I started her up in a parking lot and ran her through the different gears (don't ask why), then I placed it in park and let it idle for a few seconds while I was looking for something in the car. The engine suddenly shut off.
I tried to start it repeatedly with no success. The engine tries to turn over but it doesn't make the final "firing" sound.
I started using the search function to see if anyone has experienced anything similar and to see if this was recoverable or not and found this:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ine-video.html
The sound I got was like that but more loud.
Is this he right?
IS SHE GONE?
--- UPDATE 01/12 ---
Interesting new development. Yesterday, I asked an officer give me a jump and it sounded closer to being able to start instead of chugging after a 3rd or 4th try. It's possible the alternator went out (I know the battery itself isn't an issue since it's new) or there is something else in between the battery and starting. What could this be specifically?
There's a chance that an issue unrelated to what I posted initially came up and is the cause of this problem. Thoughts?
Last edited by Lyoko; Mar 15, 2013 at 11:50 AM. Reason: --- UPDATE 03/15 ---
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 57
From: Tuscon, AZ
Interesting new development. Yesterday, I asked an officer give me a jump and it sounded closer to being able to start instead of chugging after a 3rd or 4th try. It's possible the alternator went out (I know the battery itself isn't an issue since it's new) or there is something else in between the battery and starting. What could this be specifically?
There's a chance that an issue unrelated to what I posted initially came up and is the cause of this problem. Thoughts?
P.S. Quicky, I went in for an oil change and was told there is enough in there. There oil caked on the sides of the engine, though.
There's a chance that an issue unrelated to what I posted initially came up and is the cause of this problem. Thoughts?
P.S. Quicky, I went in for an oil change and was told there is enough in there. There oil caked on the sides of the engine, though.
Last edited by Lyoko; Jan 12, 2013 at 11:07 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 57
From: Tuscon, AZ
Going to dump some Mobil 1 10w-30 inside without draining, then ask someone else for a jump and see what happens. Since the engine still tries to turn over I may be in luck!
Last edited by Lyoko; Jan 12, 2013 at 11:43 AM. Reason: !
opcorn:
Cliffs;
Your oil pump died a slow death and you ignored the signs (oil light and engine noise). You kept running it with no oil pressure and now its siezed or just nearly. This is why it wont crank over easily.
Changing the oil won't fix it.
You should not own a car if you cant even recognize a bad thing and take it to a shop.
Your oil pump died a slow death and you ignored the signs (oil light and engine noise). You kept running it with no oil pressure and now its siezed or just nearly. This is why it wont crank over easily.
Changing the oil won't fix it.
You should not own a car if you cant even recognize a bad thing and take it to a shop.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 57
From: Tuscon, AZ
I lied; it never started. It has no compression, the motor is toast.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
Last edited by Lyoko; Feb 4, 2013 at 12:03 PM.
I lied; it never started. It has no compression, the motor is toast.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 278
I lied; it never started. It has no compression, the motor is toast.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
Do it, and then change the oil every 3-4k miles and you will probably get another 200k out of it.
And why the hell did u lie about it starting???
Douches?? 1200 bucks to go from dead car to running & driving car sounds great to me - just exactly how cheap do u think that should be done?
Do it, and then change the oil every 3-4k miles and you will probably get another 200k out of it.
And why the hell did u lie about it starting???
Do it, and then change the oil every 3-4k miles and you will probably get another 200k out of it.
And why the hell did u lie about it starting???
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,005
From: Worcester, MA
I lied; it never started. It has no compression, the motor is toast.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
JY douches want $650 for a 100K motor and $600-700 labor. Do you guys know where else I could get a motor fairly priced? I can get creative on the labor, but I at least need to establish another source for a motor.
Well how much u trying to spend???
If you cant do the work yourself, then the lowest u wd pay is 800 bucks. Its AT LEAST 400 bucks labor.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 57
From: Tuscon, AZ
Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 237
From: winchester,ky
i get all my trannys and engines and other parts from car-parts.com its great website and 400 sounds good make sure if u buy this engine drain the oil run a engine cleaner through it from autozone well its called motor flush then drain it all out then put some cheap walmart oil in it to ensure its all out after u have flushed it and put what oil you want to run in it after u drain the cheap walmart oil out(helps get the additives out) i run royal purple synthetic and my car has never ran so smooth its 9 dollars a quart but actually adds 2-3 hp as guarnteed on the back
i get all my trannys and engines and other parts from car-parts.com its great website and 400 sounds good make sure if u buy this engine drain the oil run a engine cleaner through it from autozone well its called motor flush then drain it all out then put some cheap walmart oil in it to ensure its all out after u have flushed it and put what oil you want to run in it after u drain the cheap walmart oil out(helps get the additives out) i run royal purple synthetic and my car has never ran so smooth its 9 dollars a quart but actually adds 2-3 hp as guarnteed on the back
I don't recommend an engine flush & please don't listen to the royal purple stuff.
That's about as effective as an electric turbo IMO. Sounds like planecrash.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 57
From: Tuscon, AZ
I've been thinking of an alternative -- I can replace the oil pump myself no problem. But, I'm not so sure about the rest.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
I've been thinking of an alternative -- I can replace the oil pump myself no problem. But, I'm not so sure about the rest.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
I've been thinking of an alternative -- I can replace the oil pump myself no problem. But, I'm not so sure about the rest.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
Can I remove the engine cover, scrape off a melted piston, and replace it with a new one?
It still cranks, it just doesn't turn over so maybe it's possible. What do you guys think.
There is no "scraping" off. A melted piston is usually, in essence, welded to the cylinder walls. Good luck un-welding it. If you have really good tools and the skill, rebuild your engine.
But I have no knowledge in that area, or any experience, so I'll leave it to someone else to comment on.
I lost it .............LOLOLOL
Last edited by tigersharkdude; Mar 15, 2013 at 06:23 PM.
Is this guy a reincarnated plane crash or what?
Planecrash never lets anyone tell him what to do because that person "might be wrong".
This guy doesn't let anyone tell him what to do because he just plain ain't listening.
Planecrash never lets anyone tell him what to do because that person "might be wrong".
This guy doesn't let anyone tell him what to do because he just plain ain't listening.
SCRAPE OFF a MELTED piston?
There is no "scraping" off. A melted piston is usually, in essence, welded to the cylinder walls. Good luck un-welding it. If you have really good tools and the skill, rebuild your engine.
But I have no knowledge in that area, or any experience, so I'll leave it to someone else to comment on.
There is no "scraping" off. A melted piston is usually, in essence, welded to the cylinder walls. Good luck un-welding it. If you have really good tools and the skill, rebuild your engine.
But I have no knowledge in that area, or any experience, so I'll leave it to someone else to comment on.
Pistons are the least of your problem. Rod bearings, main bearings, crank journals, cam journals, the whole entire engine is scrap metal. Get another car and keep oil in the fukcing thing. Please stop posing here because you are a person who cannot be helped.
