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Automatic shifter problem - bushing?

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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Automatic shifter problem - bushing?

Hi,
My '95 maxima with RE4F04A auto trannie has a shifter problem where sometimes it won't start when in Park unless you jiggle the shifter a bit. It is also quite stiff when moving the shifter from P through to D. On my 3rd Gen Maxima I had a worn bushing that caused some problems with the shifter. I replaced it and it solved the problem.

Do the 4th Gen maximas suffer from the same problem? I.e. would replacing the shifter bushing be a good place to start?

I have also read something about an inhibitor switch causing similar problems and also about a rubber bushing on the end of the cable so not sure where to start.
Old Jan 12, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mark77
Hi,
My '95 maxima with RE4F04A auto trannie has a shifter problem where sometimes it won't start when in Park unless you jiggle the shifter a bit. It is also quite stiff when moving the shifter from P through to D. On my 3rd Gen Maxima I had a worn bushing that caused some problems with the shifter. I replaced it and it solved the problem.

Do the 4th Gen maximas suffer from the same problem? I.e. would replacing the shifter bushing be a good place to start?

I have also read something about an inhibitor switch causing similar problems and also about a rubber bushing on the end of the cable so not sure where to start.
Yes you are correct. The earlier 4th gens do suffer from the same problem with the rubber bushing at end of cable where it meets P/N safety switch. Swapped mine out from a later 4th gen which they changed it to metal. Nissan does not sell it separate and must purchase new cable.
Old Jan 12, 2013 | 11:21 PM
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Thanks - but I was talking about the nylon bushing from the linkage that is accessed by taking off the cat converter heat shield. That is what fixed my 3rd Gen. Is this not an issue with the 4th Gens?

How to I access the rubber bushing on the cable end? Will it be obvious if it is the issue?
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mark77
Thanks - but I was talking about the nylon bushing from the linkage that is accessed by taking off the cat converter heat shield. That is what fixed my 3rd Gen. Is this not an issue with the 4th Gens?

How to I access the rubber bushing on the cable end? Will it be obvious if it is the issue?
The only cable underneath our cat converter heat shields is the e-brake cable. I had your issue so thats' why I know where you need to look. Its obvious though from the front of the car, go right under the bumper to your right and you will see the P/N safety switch right there with the cable attached on by a 10mm nut. Remove the nut and examine the bushing.
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:09 PM
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The only cable underneath our cat converter heat shields is the e-brake cable. I had your issue so thats' why I know where you need to look. Its obvious though from the front of the car, go right under the bumper to your right and you will see the P/N safety switch right there with the cable attached on by a 10mm nut. Remove the nut and examine the bushing.
Ok. I found the control cable and inspected the rubber bushing. It had a couple of cracks in it but was in one piece. Is the oval shaped slot where it mounts on the stud the only adjustment that can be made on the cable? It is a pretty small range. It helped a bit but there is still some play in the shifter. Does this mean that the next step would be to get a replacement cable?

I checked the P/N was aligned correctly and the holes lined up perfectly in neutral.
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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I have a friend that have a 99gle with the similar problem. His does start but can't get it into gear. The shift **** be hard to press. I mean you be there for like 10mins just to get it in gear. Would that be the same problem mark have and do we look in the same location as he was told
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by mark77
Ok. I found the control cable and inspected the rubber bushing. It had a couple of cracks in it but was in one piece. Is the oval shaped slot where it mounts on the stud the only adjustment that can be made on the cable? It is a pretty small range. It helped a bit but there is still some play in the shifter. Does this mean that the next step would be to get a replacement cable?

I checked the P/N was aligned correctly and the holes lined up perfectly in neutral.
Well if it lines up correctly, time to investigate further. When you have a problem starting in P, have you tried moving to N and starting to see if it cranks right away?
Old Jan 20, 2013 | 10:39 PM
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Well if it lines up correctly, time to investigate further When you have a problem starting in P, have you tried moving to N and starting to see if it cranks right away?
I'll try that next time it does it. Last time it wouldn't start I pushed the lever further forward it started straight away.
Old Jan 25, 2013 | 10:35 PM
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Hi, just wanted to give an update on my shifter issue. It did end up being the control cable. I couldn't really get my head around the function of the bushing initially, but after having another look I realised that the rubber bushing is supposed to be able to move around inside the outer housing. Mine was not. I removed the inner oval metal part and got it moving with some rubber grease. Now the shifter is not stiff when to the lower gears and hasn't refused to start in Park yet. Eventually I may need to replace the cable as the bushing isn't in great condition but it is working well for now.

Thanks for the advice!
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