Gas in the engine oil.Please Help!
#1
Gas in the engine oil.Please Help!
My car has not been running for a little bit over a month. It was not getting a spark, i had it just sitting at the shop and 3 different mechanics look at it. After awhile with the help of threads I found the problem. It was bad ground the whole time. Now my engine oil level is higher then the MAX mark on the dip stick and smells like oil very bad. I figured it was because the car has been just sitting for so long and constantly cranking the engine. So i drained the oil and put like 2 quarts into the engine to fully drain it. Replaced oil filter and cleaned up all of the spark plugs (they were black but i replaced them right before my car wouldnt start). After i refilled the oil and started the car (after a few cranks) I test drive it and it runs really ****ty like it misfires. Pulled over and there was smoke coming from the back of the engine and again the level of the dipstick is higher and hella smells like gas. What could it be and what should i check??
#5
So the only way it pretty much can get into the oil is through the injectors O-rings if they are bad or if the injector is stuck open? To test if the injector is stuck open should i just check for fuel pressure when the car is off? Could it be the head gasket or coolant would get into oil not gas.
#6
The injectors are sidefeed, if the seals/o-rings go bad excess fuel gets into the intake manifold and sucked in to the cylinders. The unburned gas washes past the oil rings and into the oil pan. Same thing with a stuck injector, the excess fuel gets pass the oil rings. Either way just remove the intake and see whats going on. The stuck open injector would be a mechanical malfunction that would not be able to be detected by an ohm test.
#7
The injectors are sidefeed, if the seals/o-rings go bad excess fuel gets into the intake manifold and sucked in to the cylinders. The unburned gas washes past the oil rings and into the oil pan. Same thing with a stuck injector, the excess fuel gets pass the oil rings. Either way just remove the intake and see whats going on. The stuck open injector would be a mechanical malfunction that would not be able to be detected by an ohm test.
#8
where are tho o-rings located at? where the injectors go or the actual cylinder where the spark plug is? Im not really good with engines im more of a remove and replace parts type of guy so any help is highly appreciated.
#9
Where the injectors are mounted. If it is front 3 and you find it, great but you have to take off the IM to get the back 3. Might as well replace them all if it is an o-ring that is bad. If the o-rings are all good check all your injectors, slightly remove the fuel rail from the lower IM and crank the car to see the spray pattern, they all should spray in a similar mist pattern, anymore than that would be a problem.
#10
Where the injectors are mounted. If it is front 3 and you find it, great but you have to take off the IM to get the back 3. Might as well replace them all if it is an o-ring that is bad. If the o-rings are all good check all your injectors, slightly remove the fuel rail from the lower IM and crank the car to see the spray pattern, they all should spray in a similar mist pattern, anymore than that would be a problem.
#11
I also am leaning towards leaking injectors pull the fuel pump fuse, start the car and let it die. remove the plugs and have someone crank it over if mist comes out of the plug holes you know you dumping fuel when you shouldnt be. replace the injectors and have a beer
#12
I also am leaning towards leaking injectors pull the fuel pump fuse, start the car and let it die. remove the plugs and have someone crank it over if mist comes out of the plug holes you know you dumping fuel when you shouldnt be. replace the injectors and have a beer
#13
i personally would try draining the oil once more before you jump to a leaking injector
what happens when you crank but not start is fuel sprays into the combustion chamber, theres no pressure on the piston rings and the car didnt fire, so the fuel just goes by the rings and drains into the oil pan. thats why the level goes up (once you figure out why it wasnt starting, never ever ever ever ever run the engine without changing the oil, the gas will harm engine bearings)
so if you replaced the plugs right before this incident, the plugs are probably fouled by all of the gas. not saying you dont have a leaking injector, but to me it sounds like you need another oil change and new plugs
what happens when you crank but not start is fuel sprays into the combustion chamber, theres no pressure on the piston rings and the car didnt fire, so the fuel just goes by the rings and drains into the oil pan. thats why the level goes up (once you figure out why it wasnt starting, never ever ever ever ever run the engine without changing the oil, the gas will harm engine bearings)
so if you replaced the plugs right before this incident, the plugs are probably fouled by all of the gas. not saying you dont have a leaking injector, but to me it sounds like you need another oil change and new plugs
#14
i personally would try draining the oil once more before you jump to a leaking injector
what happens when you crank but not start is fuel sprays into the combustion chamber, theres no pressure on the piston rings and the car didnt fire, so the fuel just goes by the rings and drains into the oil pan. thats why the level goes up (once you figure out why it wasnt starting, never ever ever ever ever run the engine without changing the oil, the gas will harm engine bearings)
so if you replaced the plugs right before this incident, the plugs are probably fouled by all of the gas. not saying you dont have a leaking injector, but to me it sounds like you need another oil change and new plugs
what happens when you crank but not start is fuel sprays into the combustion chamber, theres no pressure on the piston rings and the car didnt fire, so the fuel just goes by the rings and drains into the oil pan. thats why the level goes up (once you figure out why it wasnt starting, never ever ever ever ever run the engine without changing the oil, the gas will harm engine bearings)
so if you replaced the plugs right before this incident, the plugs are probably fouled by all of the gas. not saying you dont have a leaking injector, but to me it sounds like you need another oil change and new plugs
#15
#16
what in the world are you talking about? if a car wont start, the injectors still keep spraying fluid into the combustion chamber. cars not running, so theres no pressure holding the piston rings against the cylinder wall so the gas just drips down the cylinder wall past the rings into the oil pan with the oil. where else does the gas go if the car doesnt start?
#17
if you do not see fuel vapor it may be a good idea to check compression your already half way there labor wise.
#18
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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An engine is nothing more then an air pump. Most of the compressed vapor gets pumped into the exhaust system. Some will coat the chamber, plug etc. You do realize how small that spray of fuel is? You'd need about a quart of fuel past the cylinder rings before your seeing it on the dipstick. A quart of fuel would take the VQ 8 miles down the road with 6 cylinders burning. So 1/6th of that is 30 minutes of operation under ~15% engine load spraying directly into the oil. It's just not happening.
The VQ dipstick is tough to read as it sits in an oil return galley. The only way to get an accurate reading is to let it sit for 20min or check it first thing in the morning.
The OP has a misfire, not gas in his oil. And one would expect the oil to smell like petrol, especially because the engine hasn't been run up to operating temperature yet.
The VQ dipstick is tough to read as it sits in an oil return galley. The only way to get an accurate reading is to let it sit for 20min or check it first thing in the morning.
The OP has a misfire, not gas in his oil. And one would expect the oil to smell like petrol, especially because the engine hasn't been run up to operating temperature yet.
#19
Ok so i tried to figure this out going the easy way first. I started the car after multiple cranks let it run for like 5 sec. then turned it off and pulled out the fuel pump fuse. Check my oil dipstic and instantly the level was very high and liquidy and smelled like straight gas. I pulled out all of the spark plugs except one because the rubber piece at the end of the coil came off it and is stuck on top of the plug. I tried for like 20 mins to take it out then said F*** it and left it in there. Then i had someone crank my car a few times and did not see any gas or fumes come out, but it did smell like gas. Couple of the plugs were a little wet too. So i guess now i will have to pull out injectors and see how they spray, and probably change the plugs drain oil again and replace the bottom o rings on the injectors.
Or did i do something wrong?
Or did i do something wrong?
#21
I heard from couple technicians at my work that it might be my piston rings. because even if my injector is leaking excess fuel would go into my intake system? Do you guys think thats correct? Im thinking about just saying **** it and take apart engine and just replace most of the gaskets. And while i have intake manifold off i can see how my injectors spray by putting key in on position right?
#22
I heard from couple technicians at my work that it might be my piston rings. because even if my injector is leaking excess fuel would go into my intake system? Do you guys think thats correct? Im thinking about just saying **** it and take apart engine and just replace most of the gaskets. And while i have intake manifold off i can see how my injectors spray by putting key in on position right?
Check compression for the love of Christ
#23
I got the same problem. Gas in oil. HG blew this summer due to radiator crack.
I did replace the radiator and the car performed for 4 months or so now
Antifreeze in exhaust with gas smell and no power. Its been using gas like a person just came out of Arizona desert!
DId the Thermagasket treatment this weekend,white smoke stopped but today it came back....it starts when the car temp hits operating temp.
The tech at therma said its your spark plugs! I changed those today,BUT one of them I saw oil in the chamber! Leak! So looks like the overheating probably blew out the plug o rings and possibly the valve cover gasket also?
Car is Maxima 99 SE with 238 K,first major problem I have had on this car!
So besides the gaskets need being replaced and hoping the HD gasket was sealed(I think its NOT as white smoke returned but could be gas also). Might need to redo the treatment as it comes with enough for a second try.
Not done compression test,not checked the injectors or the fuel regulator.
EGR clogged also?
Whats my next move? I am a newbie here and also not a mechanic but am able to do basic stuff without the diag and advance tools set! LOL
thxs
neil
ps should I just shot it and get it over with? looks like a money trap from now on anyway but want to hold on as long as I can.
I did replace the radiator and the car performed for 4 months or so now
Antifreeze in exhaust with gas smell and no power. Its been using gas like a person just came out of Arizona desert!
DId the Thermagasket treatment this weekend,white smoke stopped but today it came back....it starts when the car temp hits operating temp.
The tech at therma said its your spark plugs! I changed those today,BUT one of them I saw oil in the chamber! Leak! So looks like the overheating probably blew out the plug o rings and possibly the valve cover gasket also?
Car is Maxima 99 SE with 238 K,first major problem I have had on this car!
So besides the gaskets need being replaced and hoping the HD gasket was sealed(I think its NOT as white smoke returned but could be gas also). Might need to redo the treatment as it comes with enough for a second try.
Not done compression test,not checked the injectors or the fuel regulator.
EGR clogged also?
Whats my next move? I am a newbie here and also not a mechanic but am able to do basic stuff without the diag and advance tools set! LOL
thxs
neil
ps should I just shot it and get it over with? looks like a money trap from now on anyway but want to hold on as long as I can.
Last edited by neilzep; 01-22-2013 at 07:44 PM.
#24
I heard from couple technicians at my work that it might be my piston rings. because even if my injector is leaking excess fuel would go into my intake system? Do you guys think thats correct? Im thinking about just saying **** it and take apart engine and just replace most of the gaskets. And while i have intake manifold off i can see how my injectors spray by putting key in on position right?
#25
The easiest way to rule out the rings is to do a compression test. Google how to do it and borrow the tool from the parts store. If the readings are good, go to the next step. Take the intake manifold off, unbolt the fuel rail from the lower IM. Prop the rail so you can see the spray pattern. This means you crank the car with the fuel pump fuse installed. You will see the spray pattern, you will be able to tell if the injectors are spraying correctly, dripping, or if an o-ring is bad. No need to spin in circles if you just perform these steps. Oil is properly checked after running by allowing the car to sit for a few minutes, pull the stick, wipe with a cloth, etc. After running, the level will always be high if you are just looking at the stick.
Should i change my oil again before doin the compression test or Ill be fine?
I appreciate all the help. Thanks
#26
yes. it should stumble and then die and not refire. after that remove all the coils and plugs. then have a friend crank it and see if fuel vapor comes out of the plug holes. if so your injectors are toast.
if you do not see fuel vapor it may be a good idea to check compression your already half way there labor wise.
if you do not see fuel vapor it may be a good idea to check compression your already half way there labor wise.
The easiest way to rule out the rings is to do a compression test. Google how to do it and borrow the tool from the parts store. If the readings are good, go to the next step. Take the intake manifold off, unbolt the fuel rail from the lower IM. Prop the rail so you can see the spray pattern. This means you crank the car with the fuel pump fuse installed. You will see the spray pattern, you will be able to tell if the injectors are spraying correctly, dripping, or if an o-ring is bad. No need to spin in circles if you just perform these steps. Oil is properly checked after running by allowing the car to sit for a few minutes, pull the stick, wipe with a cloth, etc. After running, the level will always be high if you are just looking at the stick.
try some long needle nose pliers that may do the trick to get the old boot off
Last edited by maxed_out_99; 01-22-2013 at 10:15 PM.
#27
ok I have checked the compression finally and all of the cylinders are reading around 180 with few variations. i heard that the change between the readings should not be more than 15%. not im removing the intake manifold to see whats going on with the injectors.
#30
Ok so i have Im off and i took off the fuel rail with all of the injectors off. Well not off but i unbolted everything and lifted it up so i can see the bottom of all 6 injectors. they are plugged in to the harness and everything. I had someone put the key in the on position a few time and i did not see any fuel come out of any of them! Not even once! prior to doing this i put back the fuel pump fuse, since i had it removed to do some previous tests.
So far i had my compression checked -Good.
Took out the fuel pump fuse and took out spark plugs- no fuel vapor came out of the cylinders.
Oh and i just replaced my PCV valve cause my old one was clogged.
What am I doing wrong or what should i be doing?
Appreciate any help
So far i had my compression checked -Good.
Took out the fuel pump fuse and took out spark plugs- no fuel vapor came out of the cylinders.
Oh and i just replaced my PCV valve cause my old one was clogged.
What am I doing wrong or what should i be doing?
Appreciate any help
#31
The only other thing i can think of would be to check fuel pressure and volume. if enough fuel is making it into the crank case then your leaking it somewhere. the only logical place would be the injectors. unless your diaphragm in the FPR is torn and its running full fuel pressure all the time causing it to run ungodly rich. can you check fuel trims? ST BANK1 and ST BANK2.
that will let you know if your running rich or lean.
plus the fuel pressure and volume this will help get closer to resolving the issue.
unless im forgetting something. but someone else can chime in some useful info hopefully
that will let you know if your running rich or lean.
plus the fuel pressure and volume this will help get closer to resolving the issue.
unless im forgetting something. but someone else can chime in some useful info hopefully
Last edited by maxed_out_99; 02-08-2013 at 08:39 PM.
#33
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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You don't have a fuel problem, never did. (Post#18)
You've got a misfire, possibly a coil is bad.
The dipstick on the VQ is in an oil return galley. It comes out full of oil after the engine has been run and it's next to impossible to get a reading on it until all the oil settles.
There is no gas in your oil. Put the fuel system back together and troubleshoot a misfire.
One would expect your oil to smell like a gas engine.....
You've got a misfire, possibly a coil is bad.
The dipstick on the VQ is in an oil return galley. It comes out full of oil after the engine has been run and it's next to impossible to get a reading on it until all the oil settles.
There is no gas in your oil. Put the fuel system back together and troubleshoot a misfire.
One would expect your oil to smell like a gas engine.....
#35
You don't have a fuel problem, never did. (Post#18)
You've got a misfire, possibly a coil is bad.
The dipstick on the VQ is in an oil return galley. It comes out full of oil after the engine has been run and it's next to impossible to get a reading on it until all the oil settles.
There is no gas in your oil. Put the fuel system back together and troubleshoot a misfire.
One would expect your oil to smell like a gas engine.....
You've got a misfire, possibly a coil is bad.
The dipstick on the VQ is in an oil return galley. It comes out full of oil after the engine has been run and it's next to impossible to get a reading on it until all the oil settles.
There is no gas in your oil. Put the fuel system back together and troubleshoot a misfire.
One would expect your oil to smell like a gas engine.....
OP check fuel trims and coils
good call njmax
#36
my coils are good i had them checked individually when i had had the no-spark issue which turned out to be bad ground. i know oil will smell like gas a little bit but i have never seen oil like this. smells like straight gas and oil itself is like water. I guess ill just check injector gaskets and i want to clean up my EGR before putting everything back together and i will replace all of the spark plugs again and do another oil change and hopefully Ill be good.
could the clogged PCV valve cause anything like this?
could the clogged PCV valve cause anything like this?
#39
Ok i just want to clean my EGR while im here and maybe check my fuel pressure. Then Ill put everything back together throw new plugs and bust out an oil change. Then ill do what you guys said let it run then sit for like 30 mins before touching the dipstick.
#40
i dont think that will work. you have to be able to read live data. if everything is running cherry you sould be in between 0 to +7 it should bounce back and forth. for your short term.the long term should be around 0.
thats the best way to know if your actually running rich.
a bad PCV can also cause oil in your intake manifold. since you have it off might no be a bad idea to shine a flash light uo there and see if its oil soaked
thats the best way to know if your actually running rich.
a bad PCV can also cause oil in your intake manifold. since you have it off might no be a bad idea to shine a flash light uo there and see if its oil soaked