VanHowie

My car has high NOx emissions, which I lowered quite a bit by changing my cat converter, but it's still high enough to be on the threshold of failing my cali smog test. So one of the other things I decided to try, in addition to cleaning out my EGR tube and IAC valve which was successful, is the typical EGR valve test - get my finger up under the valve and push up on the diaphragm. I'm pretty sure I'm not confusing the EGR valve for some other component, but what I am getting confused about when I reach down there is where exactly the diaphragm is. Is it all the way at the very bottom of the part or is it on the bottom of the wide saucer-shaped contraption on top of the part? I tried pushing up on these two locations both when the car was off and when it was idling. Nothing budged. Either my EGR valve is stuck/clogged and needs to be replaced (or maybe just cleaned?) or I'm pushing up on the wrong spot. Then again I don't think there's any other spot on the part to push up. Can someone help set me straight? Lol

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Once idling and you press on it, car should drop idle and cut off.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

If your NOx is high at idle as well as higher RPM's, the EGR isn't your issue, it's not operating at idle. I do believe we told you in another thread that the cat wasn't your issue either????

Did you replace plugs, air filter, clean the TB, IACV and look at live data via a scanner?
Your O2's might be working, (no CEL) but that doesn't mean the data is correct, which will explain the emissions issue. You really need to look at more engine operating values, even a faulty ECTS will throw your emissions off.

Stop throwing parts at it, your wasting $$$. Get a scanner on it and look at the sensors data. That will point you in the direction you need to go.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I know cali standards are tough but I am not 100% positive that a faulty EGR would lead you to fail the test in and of itself. It does raise combustion temps when clogged or deleted and therefore emissions but I am fairly certain you have other issues.

VanHowie

The higher RPM's I got rid of...stupid mistake I made after putting back on the IAC valve, I didn't screw down the little plastic cap enough, I thought it was tight as it could go but then I used a thicker screwdriver and it went down further, lol. So it idle's normally now, not a problem.

I've already cleaned the air filter, TB, IACV, EGR tube, changed oil, fuel filter, checked SES codes. Guess the only thing I haven't done is the plugs and looking at live data via scanner. I figured this next step of testing the EGR valve would be a relatively quick win if I found out it was not working properly, so that's why I went on here and asked to clarify.

The cat is really the only major part I've thrown at it so far (the other minor parts being a fuel filter and oil filter), and after much contemplation I finally decided to do this merely to experiment how a new cat would differ from my 200,000 mile old OEM cat. My OEM cat definitely seemed to be on its last leg...which obviously could have been caused by an upstream problem, hence why I am doing all this other crap.

O2's could very well be the issue as well, even though I don't get an SES code from them. I do get a knock sensor code, which I've heard that it's sometimes a 'ghost code' for a faulty O2 sensor. I figured I would delve into that after I did this quick test on the EGR valve. Trini Boom, thanks for the clarification. Gonna try it later today.

And any suggestions on a good scanner I could buy? Are they pretty costly?

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

I don't think you wanna buy that scanner. $$$$$$
Know a shop with one?
Do change the plugs, might make a huge difference.