White96MaxSE

Hi Fellow Maxima Enthusiasts!

I have visited Maxima.org many times, but I have decided to join
so that I can ask for some feedback from you guys.

I have a 1996 White Nissan Maxima SE that I purchased new on Thanksgiving, 1995 (just a few months after the 1995 won Motor Trend Car of the Year).

I have had the car for six years and I take very good care of it, and
I have 174,000 miles (mostly highway miles) on it.

I change the oil every three thousand miles, I change the fuel filter every 30,000 miles, I change the NGK plugs every 50,000 miles and they have always looked good when I take the old ones out. I have a K&N air filter that gets reoiled about every 25,000-30,000 miles.

Every tank of gasoline has been Amoco Platinum (Premium). I use fuel injector cleaner every 30,000 miles.

A year ago I had a fuel system cleaning done at which time the vacuum
of the engine was measured as 17 mm/hg prior to the cleaning and the Sun Equipment used reported 19 mm/hg vacuum after the cleaning. The Haynes Service Manual states that spec would be in the 18-21 mm/hg vacuum range so I thought that the engine seemed healthy.

I recently noticed that the car was somewhat sluggish when taking off
at stop signs, and with some 10-20 degree (Farenheit) weather I have had to retry to start the car after the car would stall on the first try and give it a little gas.

I had read about cleaning the throttle body on maxima.org and I had been thinking about investigating the EGR valve, but I hadn't gotten around to it this week.

Today, I was driving along in traffic and the "check engine" light came on. This surprised me since I haven't seen this light in 120,000 miles!

I decided to visit my Nissan Dealer since I had the afternoon off and was just driving around.

I told them about the cold stalling condition and they recommended the throttle body cleaning and I agreed.

After they had looked into the "Check Engine" situation they came back and told me that they had manually moved the EGR valve and the engine running didn't change and that the EGR plumbing appeared to be completely clogged with carbon, and that the rest of the intake manifold probably was clogged with carbon as well.

They ordered gaskets for the EGR Valve and the EGR tubes and suggested that the Intake Manifold be removed as well and carbon removed from inside the tubes next week when the gaskets all come in to do the job. They told me they were able to punch through the EGR tubes and clear the carbon from them a bit to help until the intake manifold could be operated on.

I am somewhat amazed that their would be carbon buildup to this extent when all of the maintenance precautions that I could think of have always been performed on my Maxima.


If you have stayed with me this long I would really appreciate some feedback from some of you about this before I proceed.

This is my first post so please don't be too hard on me.

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Unburned gas fuel is recirculated through the engine again to cut down on pollution. If you ever seen a intake manifold with more than 100K, you can see dark black carbon buildup in all the runners. More so on the runners near the EGR valve, that's the price we have to pay for clean air. The PCV system does the same thing. At 170K miles, it's not unusal for a well maintain car with a clogged EGR valve. Nothing too serious to worry about.

White96MaxSE

You Know, That makes perfect sense that the EGR system should get carbon build-up since burnt gas is being routed back through the engine to be burnt again to keep emissions low and keep the air clean.

I didn't think it through, and your reply really eases my mind about the situation.

Thanks, 1MAX2NV, for your response.

A couple of things come to mind about this.

1. The dealer wants several hundred dollars to remove the intake manifold and EGR plumbing, clean out the carbon buildup and reinstall.

2. What would a do-it-yourselfer use to clean the inside of the intake
manifold and EGR plumbing if it was attempted.

3. Are there any gotchas to watch for in the removal and reinstallation of the intake manifold itself?

4. Would you want to clean the EGR valve or are they cheap enough that you could just buy a new EGR valve and install it?

This is really great to be able to talk it out on maxima.org!

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

AznStevie

intake manifold is not too easy to take out many things has to be removed, because it comes out

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

if a car has more than 80-100k miles, the carbon cleaning by the dealers will drastically make a difference. I've seen before/after emission readings on several vehicles, all of which have passed with flying colors.

A buddy of mine does the ghetto setup to clean out the carbon in the intake runners. He hooks up to the EGR vacuum line to some water. The slow ingestion of the water makes it turn into mist (similar to aquamist setups). The mist cleans out the intake runners, EGR, top of the pistons, and valves.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

is alot of work. I would say 4 hours-5 hours. I wouldn't really worry about the slight carbon buildup in the intake runners. If this was my car, this is what I would do. Take off the throttle body. You can touch the EGR valve from the inside of the intake manifold when the throttle body is off. Spray alot of throttle body cleaner towards the direction where the EGR valve is. That's where majority of the buildup is, right where the EGV valve meets the intake manifold. As for the rest of the EGR system, I would go with what Got Rice said. Instead of using water, I would just shoot throttle body cleaner directly into the hose. If you don't feel up to doing all of these, I would just get the dealer to clean the EGR system ONLY. You don't need to remove the upper intake manifold for this.

matt calder

iTrader: (2)

It will take like 4-5 hours if you dont run into any probs if you are a novice mechanic. Took me like 6 but I ran into a bunch of problems. It gets easier after the fist time though

onefastmax

My engine light on my 97 is currently on fo rthe egr valve according to the code. I replaced the valve but it did not do any good. It took me 45 min to remove and reinstall to where the car was running again. I have a funny sucking noise and ticking sound coming from some where even though my engine light said its the egr valve. Any body have any idea what the noise is or why it might be triggering the light?

onefastmax

White96MaxSE

Excellent Information from everybody that replied to this thread.

I very much appreciate it.

I went for a short trip today and the "Check Engine" light came back on. Assuming that it is the EGR being clogged that caused this again how can I easily turn off the "Check Engine" light until I actually get the car to the dealer for the suggested repairs.

Also, If I try the removal of the Throttle Body as 1MAX2NV recommends then I may not have to go to the dealer in which case I would like to turn the "Check Engine" light off without returning immediately to the dealer. Is this easy to do?

I may very well go back to the dealer as 1MAX2NV suggests and asked the dealer to clean out all of the EGR components and stop short of an intake manifold removal.

I read through the r&r steps in the Haynes Manual and it describes the removal of the upper intake plenum and the lower intake plenum.

Do you think the dealer was talking about also removing and cleaning the lower intake plenum in his quote for the job?

Once the manifolds are removed from the car, what would they use to clean the carbon out of the intake runners?

Would the fuel injector cleaner or TB cleaner be used or something else?

Would they place the manifold in a tank of some sort?

I might ask ONEFASTMAX what the EGR he bought cost him approximately.
Just curious and sorry to hear it didn't fix the problem. I have to wonder if it is clogged up in the EGR plumbing as well like I assume mine is and that is why replacing the EGR by itself didn't fix the problem and that restriction is causing the noises you are hearing.

I sure would like to turn off the "Check Engine" light when it comes on since I know what the problem is and I just have to remedy the problem, not stare at that light all of the time.

Any input or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

White96MaxSE

Synki

About every 10k miles i always spray my TB and into my TB (into the intake manifold) TB cleaner. Would doing this prevent the EGR from being clogged up in the future or reduce carbon deposits?

I use nitrous (only used 3 bottles in 11 months) and i was told that it builds carbon up faster?

White96MaxSE

**************************
Hi all;

I'm still hoping for some additional information from my last post, but anyhow I looked around the site and noticed (right in front of my face) the ECU Diagnostics Code Thread and easily figured out how to read the codes in my ECU (which were 03 02 EGR Code(s) and 03 04 Knock Sensor Code, then I cleared the "check engine" light and went for a drive and the rest of the day I was not able to get the light to come back on (I'm going on a small road trip tomorrow so we will see what that brings).

I went to O'Reilly and bought some TB cleaner, and I plan on removing the Throttle Body to try to get to the EGR valve from there as 1MAX2NV suggested in this thread.

I think I see the EGR valve and the EGR Pipe that exists the rear of it and extends about a foot or 18 inches and curves around to the middle of the exhaust manifold on the back side of the engine.

I'm not ready to go after this yet because I want to ask someone where exactly is the vacuum hose that I should pull off to spray TB cleaner into to try to get at the Carbon Build-up in the EGR valve itself.

Again, I sure do appreciate everyone's suggestions thus far in this and I happy with myself for now knowing how to read the ECU codes and turn off the "Check Engine" light, and I have had some great input in regard to the EGR Valve, etc. from you all up on Maxima.org.

Thanks a bunch.

What a great web site with a fun and practical use!

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

Look for a vacuum leak.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

I doubt the dealer is going to remove the lower intake manifold for the job. They can clean the lower intake manifold while it's on the car when the upper intake manifold is completely off. The dealer will clean the upper intake manifold by soaking it in a hot parts tank. They could also clean it with some throttle body cleaner. The hot tank is better.

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

looking into the intake manifold. See the hole? That's where most of the build up will be.

http://www.picturelist.com/images/1max2nv/Dcp00808.jpg


This is a shot where the EGR valve goes.

http://www.picturelist.com/images/1max2nv/Dcp00807.jpg

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

just pull the vacuum line leading to the EGR and spray TB cleaner in. Heck, I use the TB cleaner for other things.. like cleaning my hands if I'm too lazy to run to the sink and use soap and need a quick hand cleaning to answer the phone or scratch my *** LOL. I'll spray it on my hands and wipe it off with a rag.

Got dirt/oil on your sneakers? Spray & scrub with TB cleaner and that crap comes right off

White96MaxSE

So far I have gone a few days without the "check engine" light coming back on, so I think some of the clean up the dealer did in my last visit is keeping the EGR pathways at least partially open.

I have seen no problems with starting the car in the cold, and the sluggishness is much less noticable so I have to think that when the dealer cleaned the throttle body and at least cleaned the build-up that prevented the EGR from operating at all that they may have started the process of loosening up the carbon build-up.

I'm going to take a look this weekend. The week has been to hectic so far to get to it.

Things I'm thinking about doing:

1. I'm going to spray some TB cleaner in the EGR vacuum line that goes to the EGR valve.

2. I'm going to want to remove the EGR Pipe Flange nut that holds the EGR pipe on the EGR Valve that wraps around to the Exhaust manifold. Question:
How is the pipe attached to the Exhaust manifold on the backside of the engine? Anything besides TB Cleaner that can be used on this once I have it off the engine?

3. I want to remove the throttle body and and clean out the EGR passage that 1Max2NV pointed out in the detail pictures in this thread. I'm thinking that I can use the wire brush on my dremel with the extension to get in there and clean that area.

Do I need to buy a throttle body gasket when I remove this throttle body?

Can I just leave the throttle and cruise control cables attached to the throttle body and move the entire assembly out of the way to get at the inside of the intake manifold where the EGR Passage enters the Intake manifold.

4. I want to remove the EGR valve itself and check in that area for excessive build-up of carbon. My dealer tells me that they don't have many problems with EGR valves and he doesn't recommend I replace the EGR valve.

Any Feedback or Ideas would be greatly appreciated.

White96MaxSE

1MAX2NV

iTrader: (5)

You will need TB gasket and the EGR valve gasket. Both are pretty cheap from your discount Nissan dealer, but might be more at your local Nissan dealer. Those are made of paper, so it's not a good idea to reuse them. You can leave the throttle cable on but it's fairly easy to take off. I'm not sure how the hard pipe is attached to the exhaust manifold. Never really pay much attention to it.

asianpr3082

that hole that u have on that one pic i have a lot of crap there what does that hole do and what can i do to clean it i'm think to take out the manifold out and clean the **** out of it thanks for the pics

Lime

My dad has a 91 SE with ~160k miles on it, and he got this THING done...I totally forget what it's called, but there are places that do this. It's kind of like a vaccuum flush. Basically they hook a machine up to the car and pump some kind of cleaning through it. It's NOT harmful to the car (my dad got it done like 6 months ago, and his car is fine), but it removes that carbon buildup. I am going to get it done too when my car has a bit more mileage. I will try to find out the name of the system; I know it's offered at many places, but the shop my dad got his car done at was a local shop, not a chain.

I think the service cost about $175. Like I said, my dad's car is doing fine, and he had no immediate troubles. He mentioned it felt like the car was peppier and less sluggish.

asianpr3082

so that hole in the pic is for the vaccuum line ? hmmm

Chuck Vaughan

Maybe someone who knows more about how the valve works can explain this to me, but it seems like spraying TB cleaner thru the vacuum line on the valve isn't going to do anything except fill up the vacuum hose with TB cleaner. I think the vacuum hose connection only leads to the vaccuum motor part of the valve which should be sealed. If the cleaner can get out of the vacuum chamber part of the valve and into the valve part of the valve, wouldn't that neccessarily be a vacuum leak?

White96MaxSE

Tonight I have removed the Throttle Body and yes there is a pile
of sluggish carbon stacked up on the EGR passageway into the intake manifold from the EGR Valve via the smaller EGR pipe.

I went ahead and removed the IAC Valve from the back of the intake manifold, and loosened the bolts on the smaller EGR pipe so that I could move the pipe back from the outside of the EGR passageway on the outside of the intake manifold.

I sprayed TB Cleaner in the intake manifold to try to start loosening the slug from that EGR hole and I was able to fabricate a tool using a piece of cotton I cut from a towel fastened to the end of a copper wire and I managed to force this tool in and out of the passageway to clean it of gunk. I also was able to use rags to reach the top of the hole by way of the hole where the IAC (Idle Air Control) Valve was attached (before I removed it).

I also used another tool I fabricated that had a cotton towel duct taped to the end of a wooden dowel to go in the large hole where the throttle body attaches and use the towel to both clean and ****** up carbon slug lying loose in the intake manifold and also targeting with the end of the dowel on the opening of the EGR passageway.

It would have been much easier to access this hole from the outside if I had been able to remove the small EGR pipe, but the Large EGR Pipe lays over one of the small EGR pipe's lower bolts and you must remove the Large EGR Pipe that goes from the side of the EGR valve to the back of the engine where it attaches to the exhaust manifold, but
I don't have a large enough wrench to fit that large nut.

I think it might be the same on both ends (the one on the exhaust manifold looks like some sort of plastic or something heat resistant I hope?), and I don't know what metric size wrench fits this.

Does anyone know the size of the EGR pipe flange nut? I sprayed some WD 40 on the outside of the nut for now to loosen it up because I was able to get a large crescent wrench on it, but it was pretty tight, and since I knew I couldn't get that crescent back where the exhaust manifold I also knew I would be able to get the Large EGR Pipe off on this shot at the task.

Anyhow, I am concerned that the small EGR pipe may be full of this same Carbon Slug that I found in the EGR passageway and in the end of the EGR pipe so I want to get both of these EGR pipes off and clean them.

I thought I might just replace the large EGR pipe, but I priced it at the dealer for 36.00 and they would have to order it so I passed today when I picked up the EGR gasket before I started work on the car.

When you have these parts removed it is a good time to spray some of the vacuum tubes with Meguier's Rubber and Vinyl Treatment and wipe all of the vacuum hoses down and check them all for tightness and I would be a good time to change any that are hard or brittle.

The throttle body on the back side of the butterfly valve was coated with carbon and this added weight to the butterfly valve so I cleaned it up, and the throat of the thottle body on the back side of the butterfly valve needed carbon build-up removed to allow the butterfly valve to seat properly again.

I got everything back together and started the car to see how it idled, but while I was in my garage it snowed four inches outside so
I will wait until tomorrow to take it for a test drive, but the damn snow will make it difficult to learn anything.

White96MaxSE

asianpr3082

I still dont know wut that holse is in that pic cuz i see a lot of crap in mine

White96MaxSE

Hi asianpr3082;

That hole in the picture that 1Max2NV provided on this thread is the the endpoint of the EGR system.

Exhaust Gas Recirculation takes Exhaust Gas from the Exhaust manifold and sends it through again to be reburnt a second time to cut down on emissions and thus carries that damn carbon into the engine.

The path of the Exhaust Gas starts at the exhaust manifold, runs through the Large EGR Pipe to the EGR valve, through the EGR valve into the small EGR pipe which attaches to the outside of the intake manifold on the backside. This is the smaller of the two holes in the intake in the other picture that 1MaxNV provided in this thread.

Where the small EGR pipe attaches to the manifold is the passageway whereby the exhaust gases are delivered into the intake manifold to mix with the normal fresh air and fuel are being delivered to the cylinders via the intake manifold.

The hole that we are taking about is the point where all of the crap builds up I suspect because the hot exhaust gases meet the cold normal intake mixture at that point and this causes the gas to dump carbon and other crap it is carrying at that point.

You have got to get that hole (the entire passageway) and also the EGR pipes clear of carbon buildup if you want to have a smooth and uninterrupted flow of exhaust gas and insure that the EGR valve can function properly.

I hope this helps.

White96MaxSE

brubenstein

Intakes and EGR systems both get clogged with carbon deposits, but different methods are needed to clean them. The intake system can be cleaned (if it's not too gunked up) with chemicals. Intake/top end cleaners can be sucked in via a vacuum port behind the TB. Mazda and GM sell top end cleaners for this purpose. The solvent is sucked in, the car allowed to sit for several hours, so the solvent loosens things up, then more cleaner is sucked in and the car then driven (hard) to blow out the loose carbon. Water is not such a great idea: it tends to kill 02 sensors. There is a commercial system for doing this (previously refered to called Motorvac). Injector cleaner that's put into the gas tank will do nothing for this; the injectors are way down stream on the intake and fuel doesn't pass through the intake mainifold. You may be able to do a bit of cleaning by spraying TB cleaner into the intake mainifold. If the gunk is too thick the only way to remove it all is by taking things apart and mechanical means.
The EGR system is differnt, because you can't spray anything into it. The vacuum line to the EGR valve only controls the opening of the EGR valve. There is a diaphram (which the vacuum moves) that keeps the vacuum seperate from the exhaust gas. The only thing you do by spraying solvent into the vacuum line is possibly damaging the diaphram. The only way to get the carbon out is by mechanical means, or replacing parts.
You will get less carbon build up by using synthetic oil. Synthetic oil doesn't have light distolates in it that boil off and get into the engine (via the PCV system), so less carbon is formed. It's also easier to keep the intake manifold clean, with annual chemical treatments, than cleaning out years of build up with a scrapper.

White96MaxSE

Great Information, Brubenstein.

This clears up a lot for me.

I have a couple of questions.

1. What to do if you DID spray some TB cleaner into the vacuum port of the EGR Valve? How do you remedy this and avoid the 135.00 for a new EGR Valve? If not much was sprayed in there will it just evaporate?

2. Do you happen to know what size the Large Flange Nut on the large EGR Pipe that that attaches to the side of the EGR Valve is?

3. Do you know if the Flange Nut that attaches this same large EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold is the same size nut and if not what size is that nut back there and what type of tool is used to reach into tight quarters back there to loosen and tighten it?

4. What besides the TB cleaner can be used to clean the back side of the butterfly valve in the throttle body?

One comment;

I've learned some valuable lessons from your post. Thanks.

White95MaxSE

brubenstein

If you attach a tube to the vacuum port and suck on it, it should hold vacuum. Since the EGR avlve is subjected to high heat it probably has a metal bellows/diaphram. TB cleaner evaporates very quickly.
I don't know what size nuts are used. For getting into very tight spots a "crow foot" wrench is often used. It looks like a super shot openend wrench with an opening for a socket extension for a handle. (It's driven with a socket wrench, so you just add extensions to get it into crowded far spots.)
Regular injector/carb cleaner spray can also be used. If you also want to clean your MAF sensor, use brake cleaner (won't leave any residue; just a short squirt). Brake cleaner can be used anywhere in the intake, but it evaporates very fast.

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

In small amounts, the water vaporizes in the combustion chamber and does not pass through the exhaust manifold. Setups like Aquamist spray small amounts as to not hydrolock the engine and damage any other parts.

brubenstein

If water goes into the engine intake it comes out the exhaust. Whether the state is liquid or gas, it's still H20. Many people have had 02 sensors die after doing "water treatments". Things that worked fine on cars with minimal, or no, emission systems aren't a good idea on cars that have them. It has nothing to do with hydrolock.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Maybe exessive water or something as H20 is a normal by-product of the combustion process. Ever see water coming out of some people's tail pipes in the morning?

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

I've learned not to try and explain some things on this forum, even if peeps think I'm wrong when I'm right. I'm never wrong

asianpr3082

EGR ? wut does this look is there another name for it like carbon canistor i have a 300zx carbon cannister can it fit in there ?

asianpr3082

i kinda read back on this thread and kinda understand now.... i'm going to take out the manfold out and clean it and also clean out the pipes from the egr but if i spray it in there it should be okay right.... man i take out the manafold what would i see in the engine would i be able to see valves or anything i know i would see some passage ways but want to know cuz i removed it one time but wasnt payin attention cuz i had to replace the fuel injector under the manfold (sucked)it would be great to see some pics and explain wut is wut but if not it's all good ...heh

breaux124

iTrader: (1)

This isn't exactly on topic, but you might be better off ordering your parts from a discount dealer.

www.courtesyparts.com

Call them up and mention that you are a maxima.org member and you get a better discount ( I think 20% or 25% off Retail).

I saved a ton of money on O2 sensors from them.

asianpr3082

Hey guys got some news yeah i took out the manifold and did some cleaning with TB cleaner i also found that connection that we were talking about that hooks up to the manifold i also sprayed some TB cleaner in there and I got to tell u guys that it was clogged i think there was only a quarter of your pinkie nail open so i used some hanger and flooded it with TB cleaner i can feel a difference now i have a 95' with 180,000 miles never clean the egr openings and i recommend doing this if u have high mileage and feel that your max does not feel the same

White96MaxSE

Hi asianpr3082;

Good information.

I have 175,000 miles on my maxima.

I went ahead and bought the Large EGR Pipe and the small EGR Pipe and I am planning on simply swapping the new pipes onto the car in place of the carbon filled ones.

Then, I can try to clean up the two pipes I remove for some future swap again.

I received the Large EGR Pipe today and I took it to Sears and tried to find a crow foot. Craftsman stocks only up to 19 mm, but I did confirm that the large end (that connects to the EGR Valve) is 30 mm, and the small end (that connects to the exhaust manifold) is 24 mm.

The large nut can be gotten to with a large wrench so it isn't a problem. The other end is in tight quarters.

In a previous post in this thread it was mentioned that I may need a crow-foot to get at the nut on the exhaust manifold to remove this large EGR pipe.

Craftsman has a 19 mm, but Snap-On goes to 24 mm, so now I need to find a Snap-On truck and buy a 24mm crow foot.

The small EGR pipe didn't come in so I am going to wait another week to do the next phase of this project.

Cold starting is much better!

Hopefully, my detailing this information will help someone else down the road.

White96MaxSE

White96MaxSE

I came home directly after work today and went after the EGR valve and the plumbing on my engine.

I removed the intake duct assembly, and reaching around the back of the engine with my 24mm crowfoot and several extensions I managed to break the nut on the exhaust manifold that holds the large EGR Pipe.
Next, I removed the two nuts on the EGR valve, disconnected a vacuum hose or two, and removed the EGR valve and EGR Pipe as one piece leaving the 30mm end of the EGR pipe attached to the EGR valve.

After 176,000 miles the inside of the EGR valve and Large EGR pipe looked incredibly clean. I decided to spray it with throttle body cleaner and reinstall this assembly later as is, and not use the Large EGR pipe that I purchased new since the original was in such good shape and that way I wouldn't risk damaging the EGR valve trying to break the large 30mm nut free from the EGR valve.

Next, I removed the two bolts on either end of the small EGR pipe that goes from the side of the block up and around to the back of the intake manifold (upper intake plenum). Note: the large EGR pipe has to come off to allow access to one of the bolts on the small EGR pipe.

Once I had the small EGR pipe off I discovered that the end of the EGR pipe that attaches to the Intake Manifold was so clogged up that only a small hole about one quarter the size of the diameter of the EGR pipe was open. Now, I had bought one of these pipe new as well, and here I was going to reinstall the brand new one.

First, I got my mirror and flashlight and took another look at the passageway that delivers EGR into the intake manifold and since this time I had the EGR pipe all the way off I was able to see much better.

The passageway had a diminished diameter due to a hard crusty carbon buildup just like the end of the small EGR pipe. I used a large 5/16" tap to take advantage of its sharp edges and worked it in and out of the hole, and this worked pretty good at enlarging the opening and getting rid of the crusty carbon buildup.

I had purchased new gaskets for the small EGR Pipe on both ends, and for the EGR valve itself, so next I reinstalled the small EGR Pipe, then the Large EGR pipe and EGR valve, and reconnected everything that I had undone.

I took the car for a test drive and wow!

What a difference this has made in the responsiveness of the rpm's.

I've got my (new) Maxima throttle response back to a large degree.

What a great improvement!

This was very much worth the trouble!

If you have over 100,000 miles on your Maxima, I'll bet you could benefit from cleaning out the passageway in the intake manifold, removing the throttle body and cleaning the back side of the butterfly valve (among other surfaces in the throttle body), and cleaning (or just replacing the small EGR Pipe ($25.00 to $30.00).

I'm sure happy I did this myself because I think it is much cleaner down there than the dealer would have done for my money!

White96MaxSE

asianpr3082

White96MaxSe, that's good that you found out that the EGR openings where cloged hey did u ever took out the EGR and open the plates. the plates are held by these screwes when u remove them you would see a moveable pointy object u could remove it and spray TB cleaner (that's only if there is a lot of carbon build up in the EGR !!!) anyways you could try to attempt this either way i dont know if there is a differnce and you won't damamge it it's kinda fool proof ..... oh behind that pointy object there is a spring it's not a strong spring so the pointy object wont shoot out on u ... heheh alright guys tlak to u later..........

White96MaxSE

Hey asianpr3082;

Thanks for the info.

You know my EGR was pretty darn clean inside, so I just sprayed into the EGR and the Large EGR tube with Throttle body cleaner and left it at that.

I'm going to keep a better eye on this area in the future and make sure it stays open and doesn't get carbon build up as bad as this time.

I sure do appreciate everybody helping out with this project. This has been my first thread on Maxima.org and a bunch of people helped me with this including pictures and good ideas.

Thanks everybody!

White96MaxSE

j_bryan

iTrader: (1)

this is the best post i've read all week!

thanks White96MaxSE