I have a chance to buy a 96 gle.with only 110500km....
and I have driven nothing but toyos for the past 40 somthin years.
Just had a bad experience with Lexus es300.....1999....lasted about
3 weeks.....blown engine ouch,and can not afford to fix it..will cost more
then I paid for it.Being on a tight budget to begin with thought the lexus
would see me through the rest of my driving days.
I am over 60 and need a dependable ride...I have a buddy who has a 97
maxi and he swears by them.
So if any of you gear heads in here can tell me what to look for before
I empty my bank account again please help.
I have always done my own oil changes and whatever else I can to keep
a car safe and on the road,currently keeping a 90 celica on its legs.engine
is still purring and tranny is good...thank goodness I discovered synthetic
lubes years ago/but the body is scrubbing the ground.
ANY AND ALL ADVICE IS WELCOME,you are welcome to email me direct
parkron51@gmail.com

Many thanks in advance....cheers ron

 

I assume you are in Canada since you said 110500km. Cars in the snow belt will have the front frame cross member underneath the radiator rusted out. This crossmember also supports the engine, it is something you must repair if rusted out.

The GLE model came with a BOSE radio/CD/tape system originally and Bose systems are only good for about 10 years. If it still has the Bose in it, check all sections. The CD section can go bad and not affect the other parts. Same comment for the tape and radio. Also make sure all speakers work. You can have a dead speaker, or a low volume speaker.

Otherwise, the car is a good reliable vehicle. See if you can find out when or if the struts were changed. They would need it by now.

 

I would check for oil burning. Both 4th gens I've had, though one had 230k miles, and the one i have now has 260k miles, burnt oil out of the back valve cover. So i figured it's a common problem. It isn't really a major problem, and if the gasket just needs to be lubricated, and it's not cracked, CD2 will fix it for a while. I think it's made by Turtle Wax. If its cracked, CD2 wont help much. The max i have now has a cracked valve cover gasket. But as long as smoke isnt pouring out of the engine bay, it should be fine to drive like that. And like said previously, definitely check for rust. The only other problem I've had out of maximas were the MAF sensors. They like to get cold solders in them, then make the car buck really bad while driving. It's an easy fix too. Just use jump wires and it will fix it. And the auto transmissions like to jerk a little going from first to second. Idk if the one for sale where you are would or not being that the km's are low. But it's something to look for. Those are the only Maixima related problems i can think of. The rest is regular maintenance. It's a great car and rides pretty nice. That's why i got another one right after the first maxima i had. I dont think you would be disappointed at all. I love my car and plan on keeping it till it dies. Both maximas still run strong. Good luck buying and if you choose a maxima, i hope you love them as much as i do.

 

As mentioned earlier, the rear valve cover gasket goes bad over time, like years and years. Since you're looking at a 96, its been 16+ years. The rear valve cover gasket just needs to be replaced. Of course if you replace one you may as well replace both. My guess is that the job would go for $300 or so. Most of the cost is in labor to remove the upper intake manifold, and if you remove the upper intake manifold I would take advantage of that space opening up and replace:

the knock sensor if it needs it....check for code (P0325) with an OBDII scanner.
Replace the FPR, feul pressure regulator.
Clean the EGR exhaust gas recirculation tube.
Clean the IACV, idle air control valve.
Clean the throttle body

If you don't replace the valve cover gaskets you can live with it...just watch the oil consumption.


This is what the rusted cross member, also known as the radiator support, looks like;

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ment-pics.html

Look out for it. Replacing it is a US$ 600 job. As before, if you don't replace you can live it for some time.

Another thing to note, timing chain tensioners. The car has a timing chain that never needs replacing. The timing chain tensioners that keep the chain taut may need replacing, however. When the car 1st starts up, do you hear some rattling that goes away as the engine settles down?

That could be timing chain tensioners needing replacing. If the tensioners need replacing, then the water pump should be changed too since you are in the vicinity. This type of jobs costs around $400 to $500.

The rattle could also use an oil filter without a decent anti-drianback valve. Get a history of what type oil filters were used and Change to Nissan OEM.

You can use these minor weaknesses as negotiating items on an otherwise very solid car. If the car has all these weaknesses I would negotiate at at least a $1000.00 price reduction.

The engine just runs and runs, and it likes to have fun, too.

 

trust me, these cars run good only if maintained by the previous owner. over there i don't know what amount of op have these cars and who can work on it for you. not to say some repairs are not diy, but some things do require a lift and the right tools. as long as she idles at the right number, and the fluids look good, and suspension and exhaust are'nt rusted to $hit i'd say go for it.