96 Maxima- Idle Slowly decreases until it shudders and dies.
#1
96 Maxima- Idle Slowly decreases until it shudders and dies.
I have a 96 maxima and just today changed the rear valve cover gasket and tube seals(it has 212k miles) and a few of the bad hoses here and there.
After I finished the job i started it and let it idle then noticed the idle would very slowly decrease until it got to the point where the car was fighting to maintain idle then eventually it lost the battle...and died.
It would rev up fine and i went and got gas just in case it was that because I was almost on empty...no change. I noticed my power steering would get difficult intermittently as i pulled into the pump.
Car had good power driving and good throttle response. whenever i would coast (let my foot off gas) the idle would drop back down to like 500 rpms.
Wanted to get some opinions on what i could have done to it or what may be causing it?
btw I also cleaned out the throttle body while it was off and unclogged the EGR hole in the intake manifold.
After I finished the job i started it and let it idle then noticed the idle would very slowly decrease until it got to the point where the car was fighting to maintain idle then eventually it lost the battle...and died.
It would rev up fine and i went and got gas just in case it was that because I was almost on empty...no change. I noticed my power steering would get difficult intermittently as i pulled into the pump.
Car had good power driving and good throttle response. whenever i would coast (let my foot off gas) the idle would drop back down to like 500 rpms.
Wanted to get some opinions on what i could have done to it or what may be causing it?
btw I also cleaned out the throttle body while it was off and unclogged the EGR hole in the intake manifold.
#3
Make sure the egr tube is tightened down enough. I did mine. Go over all of the hoses with an engine-safe spray and when it ifles up you've found the leak. Possible iacv problem? Mine has idled at 2100 before due to a bad iacv so i wouldn't count that out. I've been in exactly your spot and it sucked.
#4
just found the issue, it was the rubber connector between the throttle body and air filter assembly. on the throttle body the very bottom wasnt all the way on (i noticed it from looking from below it) so i got it fully on and it has much more power.
it will be running even better when i get my new knock sensor in, that code is on and ive read about the car going into "safe" mode and restricting the power because the knock sensor is broke so the engine thinks theres a knock.
the safe mode prevents further damage apparently. very smart but a huge hassle.
and for anyone reading this i am also replacing my transmission range senosr (P0705 code) because it would sometimes not crank at all then suddenly it would after a while or now its taking a while to start (like 3-5 seconds).
ive done hours of research into all of these and am convinced ill have a like new car once theyre replaced.
it will be running even better when i get my new knock sensor in, that code is on and ive read about the car going into "safe" mode and restricting the power because the knock sensor is broke so the engine thinks theres a knock.
the safe mode prevents further damage apparently. very smart but a huge hassle.
and for anyone reading this i am also replacing my transmission range senosr (P0705 code) because it would sometimes not crank at all then suddenly it would after a while or now its taking a while to start (like 3-5 seconds).
ive done hours of research into all of these and am convinced ill have a like new car once theyre replaced.
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