Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

Hey guys. I pulled my engine and swapped in a freshly sealed one as a semi easier way to fix my oil leaks, that were pretty much coming out of everywhere possible.

here's the details: 98 auto, vq30 with 00vi swap. I bought schmellyfart's engine, and it WAS RUNNING perfectly fine when he pulled it.

got everything hooked up and it was a slow crank. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9F2g...ature=youtu.be)

the two grounds that originally connect to the usim, we bolted to a spot on the 00vi manifold and added a jumper wire to the ground spot on the chassis behind the passenger headlight. I'm using a 3.5 upper and lower oil pan (long story, it was quicker at the time) and we had to grind down the pan for the crank sensor to fit correctly. (potential problem?) my battery has been charged by my charger, still slow crank, replaced starter, slow crank.

I seen this thread: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ng-issues.html
same issues I have, except for the evap. I used to have that buzzing noise, but no clue what it was, and it's gone now. his solution didn't work for me.

here's what I've checked:

• battery reads 12.32v

• connector at starter reads 12.32v

• checked spark plugs, could smell fuel, so I'm getting fuel, cylinders aren't flooded

• sanded grounding points on the ground harness that runs from the battery post, to the chassis, to the block

can't think of anything else. if you guys need pictures or info ask!! thank you!!!!

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

didja sand the engine/transmission mating surface?

10 bucks says that's your problem

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

yes sir I did.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

Can't turn the engine by hand. But it turned over just fine when we torqued down flex plate and torque converter

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

Bump...

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

What makes you sure that your battery is good? Besides a voltage readout.

Try switching batteries for lulz, cleaning and re-torquing down the bolts on the tranny.

Your cranking issue is what needs to be tackled first (poor cranking leads to other problems).

The starter circuit is a very simple one, and it has nothing to do w/ the grounds on motor.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

This is alarming.

Remove the spark plugs, can you turn the engine over by hand?

EDIT: Just heard the video. WTF is that tick? Almost sounds like it's binding up on something.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

Battery showed no signs of quitting before. I checked some grounds because poor grounds can cause a no start condition.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

I removed spark plugs and still could not turn the engine with my breaker bar. Granted, I didn't have much leverage since I have a mild drop, but it should still spin easy.

And I was wondering the same thing. I've been talking with some friends they think its binding on the transmission. And I think the tick might be the connecting rods hitting the oil pan baffle.

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

Maybe something to do with fuel or spark? The tick in the video sounds something like it would have to do with spark. Coil packs may be dead? But so many at one is ridiculous. Im not sure. Is the starter bolted in too tight? I know it's a silly question, but its possible. Mine wasn't bolted in all the way after the previous owner had someone replace the transmission, so of course after i bought it, it fell out just enough to where it wouldn't start the car and it made a horrendous noise while trying. So I would think if its bolted down too much, it would slow crank like it is?


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

Nevermind. Misunderstood what you meant by couldn't turn it by hand.


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

You should easily be able to turn that engine by hand with the plugs removed. You sir, have a problem. I'm not familiar with or know why you changed the upper oil pan with one from a 5th gen. It may be part of the problem. As your friends mentioned, it may be biding on the transmission as well.

I think you need to start taking things apart, and honestly I wouldn't be cranking it anymore until you find out what's causing the issue. You may be doing some serious damage.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

This. One baffle is contoured for clearance and one is not, and this has been changed since coning out of schmellyfarts car.


Post #3 here may help. http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ap-thread.html

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

I used the 3.5 pan because schmelly did a 3.5 swap and iirc he had to use the 3.0 pan to use the 3.0 timing. I used the 3.5 pan because I wanted the least amount of down time as possible since my max is my only car and daily. Well it didn't turn out that way.

I'm more than likely gonna swap over the 3.0 pan from my old engine anyways.

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

I only skimmed through the thread so I apologize in advance if something has already been covered.

The ticking is most likely the rods and oil pan baffle. I thought the 3.0 baffle would be fine in a 3.5 pan, but those mounting bosses must be at different heights. I'll take pics and measurements when both pans are removed.

We are going to drop the tranny on Saturday and go from there since the engine rotated fine by hand with the flexplate and tq converter installed, but not after the trans was installed. I also never removed the pilot bushing from my old engine, not sure how that would affect being mated to an auto trans.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

It stinks in here...

Maxima_Joe

iTrader: (384)

Torque converter isn't installed right onto the input shaft of the trans. You have to install the converter on the trans first then bolt it to the flywheel.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

I thought you said you removed the pilot bushing?

Maxima joe how sure are you? I'm only asking because I really need my car and want to have it up and running ASAP.

Maxima_Joe

iTrader: (384)

90% without looking at the car. If I were in your shoes I would try to get the converter seated without removing the trans.
You'll have to remove the 4 bolts holding the converter to the flexplate.
Loosen/remove all the trans mounting bolts and seperate the trans from the engine a tad bit.
Remove the starter
Then from the hole of the starter you'll have to try to turn the torque converter and push it towards the trans.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Yup torque converter goes into the trans first then bolts to the flex plate. The torque converter nose needs to sit in the spot that the pilot bushing would normally be. If both of these are not the case with your trans, it will cause problems and will destroy something.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

Ahhh. That's probably where we messed up then. We assumed it was a "install reverse of uninstall" kind of thing. We're completely removing the trans anyways to make sure we can turn the engine by hand JUST IN CASE. So we'll be sure to install it right.

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

Yeah that makes the trans install/removal quite a bit easier.

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

THANK YOU MAXIMA JOE!!!!

I'm not sure if that was the exact issue but the trans was DEFINITELY installed wrong lol oops

Car is 95% now! And that's because I'm wrong 5th gen iacv and alternator died. Lol

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

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