TequilaTim

Had oil leak on the passenger side just behind the timing cover and above the oil pressure sender. Been bugging me and was getting steadily worse. So I started with Valve Cover gaskets then I did the upper oil pan and finally this weekend, I tackled the dreaded rear timing chain cover.

And walla - no more leaks. Wasn't as bad as I though, started Saturday morning and finished it Sunday late morning. total about 9 hours of work.

Got lot's of useful information from this site. Seemed like this oil leak (behind the timing cover) was a common problem. Thanks.

Now driveway is clean and oil free again.

catalinvint

Have to do the same. Maybe next weekend

TequilaTim

Not as hard or bad as I thought. Here are some pointers.

• Set up a table and lay out the parts as you take them off.
• Drain your oil the night before so it won't drip when you remove pan.
• Remove lower oil pan to get to the bolts on the front connected to the timing cover.
• I used Fel Pro timing cover gasket set TCS 45997. It has the seals and o-rings you will need. Buy extra tube of silicon sealer.
• Remove the RH drive shaft. This will give you better access to the Power Steering Bolt.
• Look for all the bolts on the covers (outer and inner), don't force it, If it won't come off, you got a bolt stil holding it. Some are hard to find.
• As you are removing the outer and inner timing cover bolts, separate the bolts and don't mix them up. Make sure you use all the bolts when you put the covers back on. No extra bolts.
• When you have the front cover off, put crank pulley and bolt back on and turn engine (clockwise) so the timing marks (little arrows) on the cam sprockets are in the 11 o'clock (left) and 1 o'clock (right) positions. the crank sprocket mark should be at the 3 o'clock position.
• Use nail polish and put a mark on the sprockets and timing chain. This is important so you won't mess up the timing. You should use brake cleaner before painting the polish. Let it dry before you go any further.
• Use a screwdriver to push the main chain tensioner into the barrel and put a thumbtack into the small hole in the side to keep tensioner together.
• The lower right chain guide (before the crank sprocket) has a up arrow. Make sure it's pointing up when you reinstall.
• You do not need to remove the secondary chains.
• DO NOT MOVE THE CRANKSHAFT OR CAMS after chain has been removed.
• Remove the stud for the motor mount. This will make it easier to put on the inner cover. But don't forget to put it back when you put the outer cover back on.
• Clean your parts really good using brake cleaner or paint thinner so the silicone will stick.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

metalgod3082

Just did mine a few weeks ago. Took me about 9 days haha. Although I did I could only work on it several hours a day for 5 of those days. I don't know if I'm just slow or what cuz I didn't even run into any problems while doing it. But I probably spent about 3/4th of the time just cleaning off an inch thick layer of grease off of everything single thing I removed. FSM definitely came in handy for this one.

plugeye

good thread, i'm in the same boat

bigrichi3

Did you figure out where the leak is coming from? I replaced my rear valve cover gasket (fixed that leak)and have a small leak remaining near the oil pan.

dagobx

Yeah, I solved my oil burning/leak problem, too. Replaced motor ($1800 installed)LOL! What a bummer....