Max139617

iTrader: (9)

Just bought 99 se 5 speed. It has 292xxx on the clock but the P.O swapped in a vq30 with 120XXX. It test drove really well, and i bought it. 5 mins after i had the title, problems arose.



1)I think i may have a misfire, no CEL though . Basically in 4th and 5th on the highway around 1300 rpm if i put my foot down, there are huge vibrations and the car doesnt go anywhere.



2)When Im driving the revs dont drop after I let go of the gas. Almost as if the cruise control is on(except it isn't)


3)When driving, and changing gears, as soon as i put the clutch in and put in neutral to shift, the revs will climb from 1.5k-2.5k to like 4500-5500k for no apparent reason.

any ideas ?

TravisCadello

clean iacv.

Accord4tehloss!

I would start by tracing all the vacuum lines. Sounds like you may have a large vacuum leak. Also turn the key to the on position but dont start the car, does the check engine light turn on? if not someone may have removed the check engine light to cover up faults.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

First thing that popped in my mind. Will check
Nah the cel works. Gonna have to trace for said vaccume leak

Climaxx

iTrader: (4)

I really dunno dude. This has me lost. I'd check the throttle cables and tps. Maybe they're sticking? Idk

plugeye

i feel your pain, i too have a large nissan crapbox. these cars can be semi-rewarding but the service it gives far outweighs the service it demands.
best of luck

vqmaxman

high RPM'S high revs drop the clutch sounds like your a manual, check the clutch and the flywheel pressure plate and the slave master cylinder.check all vaccum hoses and the iacv, tb gaskets.

Max_Gator

Just curious - have you driven one of these maximas before or a stick much? Don't take what I'm saying as an insult - you clearly have some problems - but if not at least the 5th gear issue may not really be a problem.

If you shift into 5th at low rpm and hammer it, it is going to lug, knock and pull timing. You aren't going to take off. peak torque is around 5k and peak hp at redline. You can run 3rd gear up to 95 or so. If you are trying to get performance, you need to shift at higher rpms. The strongest point of all in this car is 3rd gear around 75mph, which is around 5krpms. Hammer that and it will move.

As for the revs climbing when you push in the clutch - are you taking your foot off the gas between shifts?

max1008

2)When Im driving the revs dont drop after I let go of the gas. Almost as if the cruise control is on(except it isn't)

This would make sense in automatics and newer cars...My max doesn't do this either...my other two "newer automatic vehicles" do this to conserve gas.

Max_Gator

except he said it is a 5spd.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

No insult taken. It's all good if it helps diagnose the problems. This is actually my 2nd 5speed maxima. I can drive manual very well

The 4th and 5th issue I've concluded is a problem. Will change the spark plugs and coils as required to fix the misfire. As for taking my foot of the gas when I shift I'm doing that too. I actually checked that I wasn't doing that by accident while I was driving it back lol

As for the rpms kicking up like crazy and sticking is beyond me.


And the misfire has spread to pretty much every ear at low rpms. Pretty scary when going uphill and you need power

max1008

That's my point 5 speed (like my max) do not have an rpm drop like automatics when you just left off of the gas unless the car is actually slowing down. Now if he meant letting off the gas and pushing in the clutch...well then you have a problem..

Aflion

iTrader: (1)

RPM not dropping while shifting and crazy idle RPM is IACV like Travis stated. Change the plugs and hope that fixes it. If not, then do coils as well. I wouldn't waste money on something that doesn't need to be replaced for sure. Lol.


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

I meant change plugs and stuff for misfire. RPM will have to be solved by cleaning IACV and possibly adjusting the idle screw. I'm sure everyone already knew what I meant, but just to clarify. Lol.


Posted from Maxima.org App for Android

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

That's the achille's heel of the 4th gen. Because of the fixed manifold, peak hp happens before the 6500 redline, at like 5800

That's why the 00VI from your car is a popular mod on 4th gens.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Here is the list of things to check:

IACV
Coilpacks&plugs
throttle body

If your taking off the IACV to clean it go ahead and clean the throttle body because it could also be sticking. a sour coilpack can also cause some very funny behavior under certain loads only in certain gears, so dont count them out

And if you change a coilpack just go ahead and do all the plugs.

Max_Gator

You are correct sir! oops.

BrooklynCyclone

When your cleaning the tb don't forget your Maf sensor

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

The maf is good. Had some spare time today and opened up the tb and it looked pretty clean.

I'll still clean it up over the weekend along with the iacv.

Picking up some coilpacks from a local part out and new NGK V power copper plugs and maybe a 300zx TT fuel filter.

Will update with results

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

vacuum leak somewhere. rpm should not rise that drastic when you clutch in. is it throwing any codes?

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

so basic maintenance is too hard for you? Perhaps it is best for you to lease a car so somebody else can take care of it for you.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

BUMP, so i checked out my coilpacks today, they all seemed fine. The car ran worse after I removed each individually. Also I should add, that not all of the coilpacks were OEM. Should I just swap them regardless ?

The last owner put in a full tank of regular maybe thats the problem. Im down to half so ill fill up with premium to see if it goes away.

Also my crazy idle problems persist. Ill hit up a dealership to get a iacv gasket and pickup some spray cleaner.

plugeye

not at all. but even some of the simple jobs turn into crap on this car.
lease a car, no thanks. only reason i've kept it for 7 years is i have little money in it

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

i'll ask this again. did a check engine light come on yet? something crazy like this should definitely trip the light.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

No check engine light. I'm guessing the cruise control cables are sticking after I disengage cuise control

Don't know what to do about that

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

is there something prohibiting it from returning to its original position? lube it up slightly.

kctyphoon101

for the record, if a coil pack goes, it most likely will not throw a CEL. reason being is because when they go, they misfire, causing you to feel a bump or studder - but as far as the computer can tell they are still firing, even though its a misfire.

also - when a MAF sensor goes you will get very crazy idle and rpm issue, but often still will not throw a code, and will often still test "good" using a voltmeter. if the MAF is far gone enough it will not even let the car idle normally, but when it starts to go you can get a very intermittent problem with the car not responding to throttle demand and suffering very bad surges while driving that can come and go for a long time before the sensor completely goes.


the easiest way (and maybe best way) to check if the MAF is not working correctly, and your car will not even idle without stalling or surging rpms, is to just unplug it. if the car then has a normal idle, then you know the MAF needs to be changed. the car should idle, but will not respond to throttle input.


things being what they are with these cars, you can get a used factory MAF off ebay for about $50. it might be worth trying in your case, and if nothing else its a good spare part to have.

and its not your cruise control. the are no "cables"

1992maximase30

ow when it revs like that when you press the clutch pedal in do the rpms go down after a few seconds or do you play with the gas pedal for it it go down? I've driven a 4th gen stick with almost 400k on the odo and in 5th gear if your getting huge vibrations with regular gas and a faulty knock sensor it can cause this. But with a faulty knock sensor it sets up a "soft" code (meaning the code is there but no check engine light).

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

UPDATE: changed out my spark plugs today. My car was misfiring like crazy. The previous owner had swapped out the plugs with some BULLSH*T Denso plugs.

Threw in 6 new NGK coppers and the car runs mint. Misfire is gone. I can chirp first and second now lol.

LET it be known NGKS>anything in our VQ's.

Still havent figured out my idle issues, as theyve never come back. Waiting on the Nissan Dealership to get the gaskets so I can clean out the IACV and the TB

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Densos are actually good plugs for these cars, just NGKs are better.

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

Honestly if you put anything other than NGK , you're just asking for trouble IMO

1992maximase30

Ngk copper?! I thought were supposed to use ngk iridium or double platinum.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

OEM for the 4th gen is NGK platinum.

NGK platinum last 60K miles
NGK Copper lasts 30K miles

NGK iridium should last longer than plats but something tells me they dont because the engine or computer doesn't know how to take advantage of them.

Using Iridium plugs is like putting premium gas in my honda civic which wants regular gas only.

1992maximase30

My i30 had the original iridium in there. But when i looked up the info at my job it said the maxima calls for double platinum and the i30 calls for iridium ??

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

Nope we can use coppers. I believe it came with platinums from the factory. I got the set of 6 for like 10 bucks where as the 6 plats would've have been 50.

The only difference is that coppers need to be replaced 30k and plats are 60k

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Someone must have put iridiums in there......my I30 has plats...they are the exact same motor.

1992maximase30

I wish i could say they did but they didn't. I asked the previous owner if the tune up was done. She claimed that she took it to two shops and they both told her the "infiniti" sparkplugs don't ever have to be changed?!!! I called bull**** on. Cause even though she ran good the gas mileage and performance was HORRIBLE. Once removed these damn things had a big *** gap. From them being worn out...and they were rusty too

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

The facts have been presented many times on this forum. It's up to you what you want to believe.

1992maximase30

Eh what's done is done. She runs good arise from that idle issue. And gets pretty good gas mileage!