1992maximase30

This is the first time in 4 years my beloved i30 refused to start. For the past month i have been having starting issues. It'll take longer for it to crank. It threw a p0335 crank sensor code just recently it also threw a p1320 ignition signal. I've been doing some reading up on this. So yesterday i cleaned the grounds took the crank sensor by the flywheel off and cleaned it off. Hooked everything up and boom. She started right up. I drove for at least an hour and thirty minutes. Shut it off twice let it sit within this time frame. So i get home Im parked out front and had the car running and my brother wanted to go to blockbuster and i waited outside for about five minutes before i decided to shut it off and go inside to see what's going on. So we came back out and no crank. So today i replaced the crank sensor by the flywheel, pulley, and cam sensor. And no crank still. So i checked to see if the crank sensor was getting a 5v from the ecm. And Im only getting 1v...Im so confused. Please help.

1992maximase30

So i tested the map sensor to see if its getting 5 volts and it is so that's a sign the ecu is working...Im assuming and hoping. Tapped it into the crank sensor still no go. Im at a loss here

Digitized

iTrader: (9)

This might me a long shot, have you checked the starter signal fuse?

1992maximase30

There's a fuse for the starter signal?? If the fuse is located in the cabin area then yes. Cause Colombianmax checked the inside fuses. If not then ill check the ones in the hood compartment. Colombianmax thinks it could be the nvats. But from what i read and experienced (on a friends max) if the security light is solid lit while starting or the whole time there's a malfunction in the nvats. Or it'll crank over run for a second then shut off. My car doesn't do that.

2brosgixxer

What year is your I??

1992maximase30

1999 i30t with 129k miles

2brosgixxer

Amerikaner83 seems to know his stuff about the NATS if you want to PM him...tell him I sent you.

EDIT: I also just did a quick search for the word "IMMOBILIZED" in the 4th gen section and there are a few threads there about it...one from AACKSHUN stands out. I did not read it all the way through, but I think that one may answer your questions about the NATS. If not, contact Amerikaner83.

1992maximase30

Thank you. But what i don't understand is why would i get a 5v from the map but not from this particular sensor. I thought it killed spark or fuel signal?

2brosgixxer

So just to be clear...and start with basics

You are getting NO CRANK at all...just "click click"??

Battery is good I assume?

If you keep the key turned what does it do...multiple clicks, or just one click with each key turn?

Does it start or even crank when the car is cold...IE Has sat overnight?

Does it only Not Crank/Not start when the engine is warm?

EDIT: Just found this, post #4 for NATS clarification http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ml#post8748849

1992maximase30

It cranks but no run or start. So i read akkshun thread. And no the security light is not solid red during the on or start position. It still arms and disarms too. So i decided to check the plugs in the front bank. All smelled like gas. Was still kinda wet. So...that's a good sign which means the injectors are spraying which means the ecu is working. I took the coil out with the spark plug still attached put it towards the valve cover. Had my sister crank it and no spark...so Im assuming its still a no spark condition here. I couldve sworn that if the ecu doesn't get a signal from one sensor it goes to the next or back up sensor??

1992maximase30

I also forgot to add that the starter signal fuse is fine. Oh and that day that this happened when the car was running. When you floored it and the rpms reached about 4k and higher it would hesitate. But normal driving it was fine

2brosgixxer

I don't think a single bad coil would cause a no start condition...it would just run rough, and all would have to be dead to cause a no start. Try a different coil in the place of the one that caused the no spark and see if another one still has no spark. I think the 4K limit when in neutral is a safety thing, but I am not 100% on that.

I am almost leaning toward your Fuel Pressure Regulator
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ded-crank.html

You also said you replaced a crank sensor by the flywheel and the cam sensor...but did you check the crank sensor on the passenger side of the motor as well?

Sorry to keep guessing here, but no starts are very hard to diagnose...I've been there and you basically just have to keep testing things. By chance, tranny has not been out, correct?

Any chance you can post a video of what it's doing?

1992maximase30

I did try another coil. And the rev limiter on these motors is around 6700rpm. The hesitation when floored is while driving. And even when i had this code it never did that until i decided to remove the crank sensor to clean it and the battery ground to clean it. I replaced the cam sensor and both crank sensor . I noticed while looking in the fsm the ecm relay sends power to the crank sensor (the one at the flywheel) so...the ecm wouldn't had been the problem anyway. All the car does is just cranks. No running .the plugs i believe were wet because of the long cranks. Im going to test the crank sensor by the pulley today and the one by the flywheel again

2brosgixxer

Ah, I misunderstood your 4k rev limit. If I recall, that can be because of a bad coil or MAF. Exactly what codes are showing on your car right now? I am about out of ideas so hopefully someone else will chime in for you.

1992maximase30

Thanks for the help so far peeps!!! I figured it out. So Im looking in the service manual and seen that the eccs relay (a six pin relay) powers the ecu and the crank sensor by the flywheel. It also stated that to test it one wire gets battery voltage and the other was supposed to get five volts. And neither wire was getting voltage it was getting ground so i was confused. So the relay was only sending one volt to the sensor. So i took it out and replaced it with the cooling fan one. Turned the key on. I was getting 12 volts. So Im like cool it should start. But no crank. Looked down at the floor mar and seen the fuse for the fuel pump out. Put the fuse in. Still no crank. So Im staring at the motor feeling so lost and seen that the sensor wasn't connected. Plugged it in and she started right up. The hesitation went away too. She runs pretty good

1992maximase30

Before this even happened i had an idle problem. Like when i come to a stop normally or let the gas go below 30 mph the rpm drop to 100rpms then idles up to 500. At idle in drive or park it idles at 400rpms. When you come to a quick stop or slam on the brakes she'll idle at 900 rpms then lowers to 400rpms. When the ac is on it doesn't do the idle drop. Also...the transmission well when cruising at 30 mph the tranny will shift into 4th gear and lock the torque converter. This has been going on for awhile. IIs this normal...also any suggestions on the idle

1992maximase30

Bump

Leo_Koneval

iTrader: (4)

Its starting to sound like a bad MAF but not exactly, right before mine died I had a really rough idle. The needle would keep going down and up, i also could not rev past 2K or something like that its been a long time.

I also had codes pop up for lean in bank 1 and 2.

An easy way i found out whether it was bad or not was to unplug it then let the car run. On my car it would sputter and shake a lot with the bad MAF but when I unplugged it, my car idled perfectly fine.

Good luck! Hope you get your car back in shape as soon as possible.

1992maximase30

She doesn't hesitate anymore. Just the idle situation. I have no running lean codes or rich.

2brosgixxer

Can't remember, Have you cleaned your IACV??

1992maximase30

Yep i did that when i did the tune up.

1992maximase30

Bump

1992maximase30

So it turns out the starter was the cause of this situation. I swapped in a new one no problems ever since. But now have another problem. I have the dreaded p1320 code. I know its not the crank sensor cause she starts up on the quick again. I tried resetting the light but it came back on right away. The car isn't mis firing at all. Please help

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

1320 is the ignition circuit which means either a coilpack or the igniter condenser. This code comes when the ecu reads an improper ground feedback voltage from a coilpack/coilpacks. So you could get the code but the car runs fine, it's just an annoying code. The igniter condenser is a .50mf capacitor (the small black box that looks like a fuse holder) on the fuel injector harness of the front 3 injectors. If that capacitor is out the code pops up also.

1992maximase30

What are the chances of the condenser being bad. Cause the problem seemed fixed after i replaced the relay for the crank sensor. Also if a coil was bad wouldnt the ecm detect a misfire ?

1992maximase30

Anyone?

1992maximase30

Bump please??

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

If a coil is going bad you will not get a code. When it is completely dead you will get a misfire code. I have seen many Maximas miss from time to time and eventually one of the coils goes bad.

1992maximase30

So...even though she's running good the ecu doesn't seem to think so. Now if i was to test the coils would that help me out?

1992maximase30

So i found the condenser which on the 99 seems to be In a different location.slightly. The connector is burnt. So i replaced it And the code still pops up. Something tells me Im gonna have to cut into the harness???

1992maximase30

So i looked into this in the fsm. The harness is getting battery voltage. And the ground has continuity. I tested the condenser and for a split second i get a reading but it goes out...meaning as if there's a break in the circuit.

1992maximase30

Bump

1992maximase30

Bump