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Finally...poorman´s torque brace, success!!

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Old May 16, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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Finally...poorman´s torque brace, success!!

On my previous post I was trying to get some kind of a torque damper, thought a ¨shock absorber¨, and found out that it is already a torque damper just like I think it should be.

They I thought about the basic function of the damper and the anchoring points: Passenger side engine mount and chassis.

The desired effect of this damper is to lessen the engine movement when shifting, getting on/off gas, by stiffening the said engine mount limiting the front to back movement.

So basically, what you want is to eliminate the passenger engine mount anchor point flex.

I put my hamster to work, and remembered that I had some 90 deg angle metal bracket, here is a pic:

http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd5c74b9a.jpg

So I thought that it may fit on the pass eng mount with some modifications in order to stiffen it...To my surprise, one of the holes lined up perfectly, I just had to grind/cut some material to fit inside the anchor point, and it fits like this...

http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps5d821de2.jpg
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps504475f8.jpg
http://i899.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps59fa2721.jpg
NOTE: If you are not able to see these 3 pics, go to the first pic web link and navigate forward.

I know it´s not pretty, I know I still need to secure it to the chassis BUT...I gave it a test drive and MAN DOES THIS THING WORKS!!

As I was backing up, I could feel a firmness I wasn´t expecting, as usually, my chassis flex when coasting off my driveway into the street.


I engaged first and the usual jerkiness (You know that our clutch is not smooth engaging, or at least mine is hard to takeoff smoothly) was almost unexistant...Shift into second, and is was a smooth shift as never before...My wife was on the passenger side and also commented that the shift shock wasn´t there.

I drove to open road on a nice flat straight section, and started to drive spiritedly...I can tell you with confidence, that the shift shock or jerkiness thru the gears, was at least ¨softened¨60 %.

I don´t remember how much I paid for these, but it shouldn´t been more that 10 bucks...These metal brackets are sturdy, and I´m sure that guys with welding equipment could fabricate these in no time.

I highly recommend this mod, it´s cheap, and it´s effective.

Note: That this ¨mod¨worked, makes me want to get the subframe connectors even more.

Peace!

Last edited by Logan30; May 16, 2013 at 12:10 PM.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:25 PM
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Aww man I can see the pictures on my Ipad, but it sounds like you have succeeded! Congratulations!

I love seeing people come up with homemade versions of things which in my opinion are quite expensive.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:31 PM
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lemme fix these pics for you

Originally Posted by Logan30
On my previous post I was trying to get some kind of a torque damper, thought a ¨shock absorber¨, and found out that it is already a torque damper just like I think it should be.

They I thought about the basic function of the damper and the anchoring points: Passenger side engine mount and chassis.

The desired effect of this damper is to lessen the engine movement when shifting, getting on/off gas, by stiffening the said engine mount limiting the front to back movement.

So basically, what you want is to eliminate the passenger engine mount anchor point flex.

I put my hamster to work, and remembered that I had some 90 deg angle metal bracket, here is a pic:



So I thought that it may fit on the pass eng mount with some modifications in order to stiffen it...To my surprise, one of the holes lined up perfectly, I just had to grind/cut some material to fit inside the anchor point, and it fits like this...




NOTE: If you are not able to see these 3 pics, go to the first pic web link and navigate forward.

I know it´s not pretty, I know I still need to secure it to the chassis BUT...I gave it a test drive and MAN DOES THIS THING WORKS!!

As I was backing up, I could feel a firmness I wasn´t expecting, as usually, my chassis flex when coasting off my driveway into the street.


I engaged first and the usual jerkiness (You know that our clutch is not smooth engaging, or at least mine is hard to takeoff smoothly) was almost unexistant...Shift into second, and is was a smooth shift as never before...My wife was on the passenger side and also commented that the shift shock wasn´t there.

I drove to open road on a nice flat straight section, and started to drive spiritedly...I can tell you with confidence, that the shift shock or jerkiness thru the gears, was at least ¨softened¨60 %.

I don´t remember how much I paid for these, but it shouldn´t been more that 10 bucks...These metal brackets are sturdy, and I´m sure that guys with welding equipment could fabricate these in no time.

I highly recommend this mod, it´s cheap, and it´s effective.

Note: That this ¨mod¨worked, makes me want to get the subframe connectors even more.

Peace!
um unfortunately the only thing you are feeling is placebo of doing something, unless your car was structurally compromised that mod should have made no difference at all. A torque brace is from motor to chassis/frame. Not mount to frame because the mount is already mounted on the frame.

A for effort though.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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I am curious to see how this holds up.
Looks flimsy IMO.

I wonder if it will hold up to wheel hop..?
If this ends up lasting, I'm interested enough.

Thanks for the thread!

Edit: I just took a closer look at the photos.
I think the improvement is in your head, not real.

I don't see any firm bracing to it at all.

It's only "connected" in one place.

Last edited by Fakie J Farkerton; May 16, 2013 at 12:38 PM.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:34 PM
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So.. it just stiffens up the support? Like it adds metal to the support bracket and makes it stronger??
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
lemme fix these pics for you



um unfortunately the only thing you are feeling is placebo of doing something, unless your car was structurally compromised that mod should have made no difference at all. A torque brace is from motor to chassis/frame. Not mount to frame because the mount is already mounted on the frame.

A for effort though.
You never know til you try. Maybe he uncovered a small flaw in our car's design.. It would sure be worth trying if it does pay off!
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by CallMeThatOneGuy
You never know til you try. Maybe he uncovered a small flaw in our car's design.. It would sure be worth trying if it does pay off!
can someone tell me what exactly that small thin (very weak) L brace is doing?

IT'S NOT EVEN BOLTED TO THE BODY?!??
might as throw a piece of aluminum foil on it and say it made a huge difference.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by CallMeThatOneGuy
You never know til you try. Maybe he uncovered a small flaw in our car's design.. It would sure be worth trying if it does pay off!
im quite sure of it. Its the mounts on the crossmember are what dictate the rocking motion of the motor, that rocking motion causes wheel hop. The side mount is just added support. Im quite sure it will have next to no effect except some placebo.

But this is going to have no effect on the movement of the motor. Unless your mount is solid metal....the condition of the motor mount is the defining factor. Here is the thing, a car with good motor mounts with out the support will severely out perform a car with this support with worn motor mounts.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
can someone tell me what exactly that small thin (very weak) L brace is doing?

IT'S NOT EVEN BOLTED TO THE BODY?!??
might as throw a piece of aluminum foil on it and say it made a huge difference.
there is that too.

A for Effort.

Execution....we will leave that ungraded.
Old May 16, 2013 | 12:59 PM
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OP will notice an improvement if his motor mount is shot to hell...maybe that's his main issue
Old May 16, 2013 | 01:11 PM
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Maybe he didnt take that last picture where he ran a bolt through the bottom of the mount in to the frame...?
Old May 16, 2013 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
um unfortunately the only thing you are feeling is placebo of doing something, unless your car was structurally compromised that mod should have made no difference at all. A torque brace is from motor to chassis/frame. Not mount to frame because the mount is already mounted on the frame.

A for effort though.


The thing you braced is the chassis,(unibody) and I highly doubt that did any flexing or it would have snapped off long ago. It's a ridged part, not meant or designed to flex.

The flex is happening inside the mount itself, the center of the rubber section that the bolt goes through. And that mounting point itself isn't really controlling engine movement that much if any at all. The front and rear mounts are what holds the engine from rocking back and forth as torque is applied.

Last edited by njmaxseltd; May 16, 2013 at 01:28 PM.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by matts95max
Maybe he didnt take that last picture where he ran a bolt through the bottom of the mount in to the frame...?
That's what I was about to answer...After the test drive as it was, I felt a difference.

Even when it was not bolted down it fit SNUGLY, I had to push it down with some hammer whacks...Once I placed the bolt of the mount thru it, there was no MOVEMENT AT ALL, since it sits right behind a bracket for the Power steering line.

There is no placebo, I was very skeptical when I took the test drive, but there's only a way to find out right? I'm trying to give something back to the ORG, as I've received a lot of expertise and know-how from it.

The mod is there, I explained you how to do it, it doesn't require much money or time, yet IT IS EFFECTIVE...With all due respect, I don't care if some of you think is ghetto, flimsy (My God, this bracket is more than a quarter of an inch solid steel, no way it would flex), or it's just added weight...It works for me, I wish I have a GoPro camera to shoot the before & after.

Back to track...After posting the thread, I bolted down the bracket to the chassis using a big washer and a self-tap bolt.

This is not the eight wonder, but it sure does help to those who try it...And seeing that NWP is more than 100 bux, I think it's worth a try.

Peace!

lemme fix these pics for you



um unfortunately the only thing you are feeling is placebo of doing something, unless your car was structurally compromised that mod should have made no difference at all. A torque brace is from motor to chassis/frame. Not mount to frame because the mount is already mounted on the frame.

A for effort though.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for fixing my pictures man!

Originally Posted by CallMeThatOneGuy
So.. it just stiffens up the support? Like it adds metal to the support bracket and makes it stronger??
It does stiffen up the anchor point of the pass mount, when installing the mount bolt, I whack it with the hammer and the mount flexed. So it is indeed weak, that's why the torque link, and the torque dampers works...

In other words, it does what the NWP torque link does, period.

Last edited by Logan30; May 16, 2013 at 10:18 PM.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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If it was "effective" than your car is actually unsafe to drive. Thats the point. The area that you put that brace on is actually one of the strongest points on the car. It does not flex to any noticeable amount period. And the fact that you just put a piece of metal from one small portion of the frame and bolted it to another less than 2" away....

Keep searching maybe you'll find something new but this. Im sorry its just a complete waste of time.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
there is that too.

A for Effort.

Execution....we will leave that ungraded.
This was my first attempt...And it is by no means flimsy, it was a tight fit... I can redo it with another bracket, trim it, chrome it, or paint it...I guess I was so thrilled to give something back to the ORG, that I just post this as it is...Hope it helps somebody.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30

In other words, it does what the NWP torque link does, period.
Dude, now your asking to get flamed.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
If it was "effective" than your car is actually unsafe to drive. Thats the point. The area that you put that brace on is actually one of the strongest points on the car. It does not flex to any noticeable amount period. And the fact that you just put a piece of metal from one small portion of the frame and bolted it to another less than 2" away....

Keep searching maybe you'll find something new but this. Im sorry its just a complete waste of time.
I rest my case...Try it and then comeback with your review...Same for all the unbelievers.

Peace!
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30
It does stiffen up the anchor point of the pass mount, when installing the mount bolt, I whack it with the hammer and the mount flexed. So it is indeed weak, that's why the torque link, and the torque dampers works...

In other words, it does what the NWP torque link does, period.
No, just no. I can call Aaron(owner of NWP Engineering) and get him to come explain what the NWP link actually does, its mount location, and the R&D that went into making it. This does nothing like what the NWP Link does. Don't get ahead of yourself.

Buying a cheap 1/4 piece of steel and just bolting in a random location on your car is nowhere close to the same.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103

No, just no. I can call Aaron(owner of NWP Engineering) and get him to come explain what the NWP link actually does, its mount location, and the R&D that went into making it. This does nothing like what the NWP Link does. Don't get ahead of yourself.

Buying a cheap 1/4 piece of steel and just bolting in a random location on your car is nowhere close to the same.
Ghetto-fab-u-lus
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30
I rest my case...Try it and then comeback with your review...Same for all the unbelievers.

Peace!
There is no need to try it you have not done anything to your actual motor mount. Are you listening? It has to be engine to frame, not essentially frame to frame. that flimsy piece of metal has done nothing help the performance of your car accept add weight. This is the same argument people have over strut bars they do nothing its just added weight.

Let me explain this to you so you will understand, unless there is a CRACK between the top of the mount and the frame will this make a difference and if that is the case your car is structurally compromised and extremely unsafe to drive. A decent size bump could cause the front passenger side of your car to collapse. So if it did ACTUALLY make a difference you need to tow that car to a body shop to have it inspected not arguing with us over this stupid flimsy 3" piece of sheet metal you put on your car.
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
No, just no. I can call Aaron(owner of NWP Engineering) and get him to come explain what the NWP link actually does, its mount location, and the R&D that went into making it. This does nothing like what the NWP Link does. Don't get ahead of yourself.

Buying a cheap 1/4 piece of steel and just bolting in a random location on your car is nowhere close to the same.
Please do that, maybe he would explain better...I mean, I'm no engineer, but I can understand the goal of the NWP and apply it in some alternative way: NWP torque link ties the pass eng mount to the chassis, my ghetto bracket does the same thing...Random location? It is the same anchor point that NWP uses
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:57 PM
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thats quite a piece of engineering work there...keep up the fInE work...
Old May 16, 2013 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30
Please do that, maybe he would explain better...I mean, I'm no engineer, but I can understand the goal of the NWP and apply it in some alternative way: NWP torque link ties the pass eng mount to the chassis, my ghetto bracket does the same thing...Random location? It is the same anchor point that NWP uses
.....

yea ok lets take a look at this here is the NWP mount:

Name:  CIMG3640.jpg
Views: 262
Size:  88.5 KB

Notice where the link is mounted. Its ontop of the motor mount making it has not yet gone through the portion rubber portion of the motor mount. There is a reason why its located ONTOP of the motor mount and not the bolt that MOUNTS THE MOTOR MOUNT TO THE FRAME wise guy.

Just because its in the same general area does not mean it does the same thing. It is specifically bolted ontop of the mount for a reason.
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
No, just no. I can call Aaron(owner of NWP Engineering) and get him to come explain what the NWP link actually does, its mount location, and the R&D that went into making it. This does nothing like what the NWP Link does. Don't get ahead of yourself.

Buying a cheap 1/4 piece of steel and just bolting in a random location on your car is nowhere close to the same.
1/4?! try 1/8.

so how much rust is on this car that the braces are made out of cheese and butter?
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:01 PM
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just curious, how thick is the bracket that the motor mount bolts to...looks to really be only about 1/8" steel that is rolled @ the edges for added strength then welded to the chassis...am i wrong, doesnt apppear to be part of the chassis itself but a thin metal bracket that is welded to it...so if that is the case, in theory, I could see where this could make that bracket a lil stronger
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30
Please do that, maybe he would explain better...I mean, I'm no engineer, but I can understand the goal of the NWP and apply it in some alternative way: NWP torque link ties the pass eng mount to the chassis, my ghetto bracket does the same thing...Random location? It is the same anchor point that NWP uses

ok i give up...you win. if you think it works then stay calm and carry on.
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
There is no need to try it you have not done anything to your actual motor mount. Are you listening? It has to be engine to frame, not essentially frame to frame. that flimsy piece of metal has done nothing help the performance of your car accept add weight. This is the same argument people have over strut bars they do nothing its just added weight.

Let me explain this to you so you will understand, unless there is a CRACK between the top of the mount and the frame will this make a difference and if that is the case your car is structurally compromised and extremely unsafe to drive. A decent size bump could cause the front passenger side of your car to collapse. So if it did ACTUALLY make a difference you need to tow that car to a body shop to have it inspected not arguing with us over this stupid flimsy 3" piece of sheet metal you put on your car.
All right, that's your opinion, everybody has one...I'm just letting you guys know my experience with this cheap mod, that's all...No need to get agressive, if you don't like the mod or don't believe it works, that's fine. Hopefully someone will give it a try and back me up with a positive review...We can discuss why it shouldn't work endlessly, I actually did test my theory, and it worked for me, that's my stand, no need to lie or to do a hype over this mod, if you don't try it, you'll never know...

Originally Posted by LONDART
just curious, how thick is the bracket that the motor mount bolts to...looks to really be only about 1/8" steel that is rolled @ the edges for added strength then welded to the chassis...am i wrong, doesnt apppear to be part of the chassis itself but a thin metal bracket that is welded to it...so if that is the case, in theory, I could see where this could make that bracket a lil stronger
That's right man, the bracket where the pass mount anchors is weak.

Last edited by NmexMAX; May 16, 2013 at 03:14 PM.
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LONDART
just curious, how thick is the bracket that the motor mount bolts to...looks to really be only about 1/8" steel that is rolled @ the edges for added strength then welded to the chassis...am i wrong, doesnt apppear to be part of the chassis itself but a thin metal bracket that is welded to it...so if that is the case, in theory, I could see where this could make that bracket a lil stronger
assuming that it was fully bolted to the bottom...

it will limit the engine mount bracket from moving. the rubber in the mount would still flex with the engine. the amount that it will limit is a small amount. the fact that he can actually FEEL the difference inside the car is a bit hard to believe.
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30
All right, that's your opinion, everybody has one...I'm just letting you guys know my experience with this cheap mod, that's all...No need to get agressive, if you don't like the mod or don't believe it works, that's fine. Hopefully someone will give it a try and back me up with a positive review...We can discuss why it shouldn't work endlessly, I actually did test my theory, and it worked for me, that's my stand, no need to lie or to do a hype over this mod, if you don't try it, you'll never know...
Thats where you are wrong. I know.

Nobody with 3/4 of a brain is going to back you up on this one, this is just....No. Just no. Its laughable.
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30
That's right man, the bracket where the pass mount anchors is weak.
How did you come to this conclusion?
Old May 16, 2013 | 03:53 PM
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I'm looking at the pics and it looks like the OP has the OEM motor mount insert. I don't know how old his mounts are but I can see how it would 'minimize' the engine roll/flex. These things are flimsy when old. To me it doesn't look like a solution...just a way of prolonging the use of OEM inserts. The amount of roll/flex he has can be fixed but just putting in the ES Poly bushing insert
Old May 16, 2013 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan30

Note: That this ¨mod¨worked, makes me want to get the subframe connectors even more.
Why buy the subframe connectors when you can engineer something! Go for it bro! I'm sure we'd all like to see what you come up with.
Old May 16, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #33  
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Wanna see something really ghetto that works?

Just look at my side motor mounts...sorry no pics yet. I've got them wrapped in nylon rope. Yep, it's held up for more than 2 years without fraying, ripping, shreading, etc and it keeps my motor from rocking. Why? Because my side mounts were on their way out when i got the car. Engine would rock and felt really unsafe, mainly annoying.

it doesn't look like a ball of yarn, because i just filled in the gaps inside and around the bushing and brackets. Simple and EFFECTIVE! yes i said it.

About the OP, cut him some slack. He has improved his car and that's what matters. I think his mounts would have to be shot for this to make a difference, but it did and that's that. It's a done deal. Requesting thread lock.
Old May 16, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by The Wizard
Why buy the subframe connectors when you can engineer something! Go for it bro! I'm sure we'd all like to see what you come up with.
in for this one.
Old May 16, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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That was good. I eagerly await your next engineering venture!
Old May 16, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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Ok, easy on the OP. And thanks for giving back to the ORG, man. In all seriousness, check out your motor mounts. If they are toast, replacing them will make a big difference in the "movements" you are feeling.

Also, I see how your mod would give support to that side of the motor mount if it was moving. How much support? We wont know without crunching some numbers. The problem with only adding support there is that the area with the weakest link has not been touched. This is the rubber inside of the motor mount. Even if you put another one of your brackets on the firewall side of the motor mount, it hasnt effectively limited any movement that is cause by the rubber inside of the mount.

Happy Modding!
Matt
Old May 16, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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Posts: 157
From: Mexicali, Baja, Mexico
No problemo with the hating...The funny thing is that if I respond with the same level of agression, I could get banned...While most of the haters are moderators or administrators, and they can talk all the verbal diarrhea that they have been saving for a rainy day. Not fair, but that's how things work here. Oops! I may been banned for saying that...Meh.
Old May 16, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #38  
HYPEsoon's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 45
Yea not really cool for the flamming from the admin +1 for that one. Most def not cool. To each their own. He felt a difference he was putting an idea out there. +1 for your Logan results probably vary from car to car. As to the admin im quite disappointed in the behavior . I read these forums everyday and I dont see this flaming very much and to see it so extreme by admin is like I said disappointing.

EDIT: Admin(Danny)

Last edited by HYPEsoon; May 16, 2013 at 07:24 PM.
Old May 16, 2013 | 07:37 PM
  #39  
ChrisMan287's Avatar
Got Retrofit?
iTrader: (34)
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 14,761
From: NY
Originally Posted by schmellyfart
That was good. I eagerly await your next engineering venture!
Old May 16, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #40  
cjandura's Avatar
Banned
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,622
From: WestChester,PA.19380
Didnt someone else try to so this with like .99 cents worth if hardware from homedepot before?what happend to him?maby this thread should be merged with that one and a ghetto wannaby mod section be created.

Last edited by cjandura; May 16, 2013 at 11:58 PM.



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