knock sensor
#1
knock sensor
Trying to pass emissions.
Have 2 codes on my 210K 1996: P0325 & P0505
I changed a knock sensor last night and cleared the codes by leaving the battery off. Today I connect the battery and drive to get the drive cycle going or at least to expect the p0505, since I changed the knock sensor. But I get both codes coming in.
What gives? I installed a new Nissan Knock Sensor and still gives the code? I even cleaned the ground connectors per motorvate DIY. I did NOT change the harness. Do you think the harness needs to be changed as well?
Makes me not want to change the IACV for the p0505 only to have it throw the code back at me. If I fix IACV will knock code go away?
Thanks in advance, im slowly giving up!!
Have 2 codes on my 210K 1996: P0325 & P0505
I changed a knock sensor last night and cleared the codes by leaving the battery off. Today I connect the battery and drive to get the drive cycle going or at least to expect the p0505, since I changed the knock sensor. But I get both codes coming in.
What gives? I installed a new Nissan Knock Sensor and still gives the code? I even cleaned the ground connectors per motorvate DIY. I did NOT change the harness. Do you think the harness needs to be changed as well?
Makes me not want to change the IACV for the p0505 only to have it throw the code back at me. If I fix IACV will knock code go away?
Thanks in advance, im slowly giving up!!
#2
IACV could be causing it. KS sometimes likes to piggy back off other codes. Usually the knock sensor is bad and is really why the code is on, but it sounds like yours is piggybacking off the other. Fix the IACV and it should go away.
Don't give up! There's no joy in that. Haha.
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Don't give up! There's no joy in that. Haha.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
#3
I hope so. Thanks for the motivational bump, your right, I need this fixed!!!
The knock sensor wiring harness had only one wire connecting to the harness side that plugged into the knock sensor. Is that normal? Im thinking maybe the harness is screwed up? Also some people say the position of the knock sensor makes a difference?
Also, do i need a nissan IACV, can I buy an aftermarket brand without any problems? Recommnedations??
The knock sensor wiring harness had only one wire connecting to the harness side that plugged into the knock sensor. Is that normal? Im thinking maybe the harness is screwed up? Also some people say the position of the knock sensor makes a difference?
Also, do i need a nissan IACV, can I buy an aftermarket brand without any problems? Recommnedations??
#4
I had an ebay KS that worked fine. Idk about an aftermarket IACV. Some things are ok, some need oem. I think knock off brand IACV would be ok, but don't hold me to it. The KS can really only go in one way if you do it without taking the air manifold off. Im not sure about the wiring. I think it varies from car to car. But i don't think a KS wire would be tampered with, so it's probably factory. I wouldn't worry about it. And no problem on the motivation. Lol.
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#5
To be perfectly honest you didn't HAVE to replace your knock sensor. Sure, it helped, but wasn't necessary. If you get a check engine light for somethin emissions related(iacv included) the knock sensor will piggy back off it and throw a code as well because the knock sensor by itself won't throw a code.
I would imagine an aftermarket iacv will work, but personally I'd buy a used oem Nissan one in the classifieds, working of course.
I would imagine an aftermarket iacv will work, but personally I'd buy a used oem Nissan one in the classifieds, working of course.
#7
Thanks guys!!! I really do appreciate it!!!
I didn't know that it KS piggybacks off other issues.
Although after 210K, this was the first time I ever replaced the KS. Im glad I did because the plastic housing of the old KS was shattered to death!!!!
Ok but before I try cleaning the IACV, why have I heard many people state that IACV should not be cleaned because it's a valve and it will fudge up electrical components if a solvent should touch it? I figure cleaning it maybe with the CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner would be the safest since it's suppose to evaporate the fastest vs throttle cleaner/intake cleaner, or are there safer solvents to use?
If someone could clarify this for me, I greatly appreciate your time!!
Happy holidays and be safe driving your gems around, I already seen many stupid drunk drivers today on the freeway swerving and reckless!!
I didn't know that it KS piggybacks off other issues.
Although after 210K, this was the first time I ever replaced the KS. Im glad I did because the plastic housing of the old KS was shattered to death!!!!
Ok but before I try cleaning the IACV, why have I heard many people state that IACV should not be cleaned because it's a valve and it will fudge up electrical components if a solvent should touch it? I figure cleaning it maybe with the CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner would be the safest since it's suppose to evaporate the fastest vs throttle cleaner/intake cleaner, or are there safer solvents to use?
If someone could clarify this for me, I greatly appreciate your time!!
Happy holidays and be safe driving your gems around, I already seen many stupid drunk drivers today on the freeway swerving and reckless!!
#8
I used carb cleaner when I cleaned mine, and it works fine. I used it to clean another one for another Maxima as well and it works fine. You might as well clean your throttle body and EGR while you're there.
And you too. Avoid the idiots on the road. Or get a Suburban and run over them. Lol.![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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And you too. Avoid the idiots on the road. Or get a Suburban and run over them. Lol.
![Smilie](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#9
UPDATE:
So an update to my code 0505. Cleaned IACV (took plunger out as well), throttle body, & EGR Guide Tube. Replaced knock sensor, pcv valve w/ rubber grommet, and all associated gaskets. Replaced couple of old hoses as well. I cleared the codes...
After the repairs, same problem as before. Every 2nd start, about less than 2 minutes in, my check engine light turns on with the P0505 (IACV) and knock sensor.
So is it safe to say I need to buy an IACV valve? I seen a few on autopartswarehouse, rockauto, etc for around 150-180. I know OEM is ideal but has anyone tried aftermarket?
So an update to my code 0505. Cleaned IACV (took plunger out as well), throttle body, & EGR Guide Tube. Replaced knock sensor, pcv valve w/ rubber grommet, and all associated gaskets. Replaced couple of old hoses as well. I cleared the codes...
After the repairs, same problem as before. Every 2nd start, about less than 2 minutes in, my check engine light turns on with the P0505 (IACV) and knock sensor.
So is it safe to say I need to buy an IACV valve? I seen a few on autopartswarehouse, rockauto, etc for around 150-180. I know OEM is ideal but has anyone tried aftermarket?
#10
I have the same problem with my 96 I only have 136,000 miles and have cleaned everything and have got the same codes still, have you changed the iacv? Did it clear it? I have been trying to avoid buying it cyz it cost about $140 but if it took off the codes id totally buy it jus afraid they will come back, I saw on paperwork from oreilleys that the two codes could be the iac connector? have u changed that? And if so where is it located? I cant seem to find it
#13
I bought a knock sensor off eBay which was the original sensor from Nissan that came in the Nissan packaging along with a new knock sensor harness wir. The reason why u should change your harness wire is because it can melt due to the heat from the engine and it won't send a proper signal to the ecu. So try to change wire to the knock sensor and see if it works. There are some of the OEM wires on eBay for sale for like $20.00.
#14
I bought a knock sensor off eBay which was the original sensor from Nissan that came in the Nissan packaging along with a new knock sensor harness wir. The reason why u should change your harness wire is because it can melt due to the heat from the engine and it won't send a proper signal to the ecu. So try to change wire to the knock sensor and see if it works. There are some of the OEM wires on eBay for sale for like $20.00.
Hello all.. just recently purchased my first car- a 98 nissan maxima with 3.0 engine 134k for $1000. I took it to get checked out and the mechanic said I need the following:
knock sensor
Front breaks
Compressor to get (air conditioner to work)
Rotator for rear break and some other stuff I cant remember.
My question- can I buy this stuff feom ebay? Should I be weary of counterfeit car parts or are there brands to avoid? Thank you in advance
#16
#17
UPDATE:
So an update to my code 0505. Cleaned IACV (took plunger out as well), throttle body, & EGR Guide Tube. Replaced knock sensor, pcv valve w/ rubber grommet, and all associated gaskets. Replaced couple of old hoses as well. I cleared the codes...
After the repairs, same problem as before. Every 2nd start, about less than 2 minutes in, my check engine light turns on with the P0505 (IACV) and knock sensor.
So is it safe to say I need to buy an IACV valve? I seen a few on autopartswarehouse, rockauto, etc for around 150-180. I know OEM is ideal but has anyone tried aftermarket?
So an update to my code 0505. Cleaned IACV (took plunger out as well), throttle body, & EGR Guide Tube. Replaced knock sensor, pcv valve w/ rubber grommet, and all associated gaskets. Replaced couple of old hoses as well. I cleared the codes...
After the repairs, same problem as before. Every 2nd start, about less than 2 minutes in, my check engine light turns on with the P0505 (IACV) and knock sensor.
So is it safe to say I need to buy an IACV valve? I seen a few on autopartswarehouse, rockauto, etc for around 150-180. I know OEM is ideal but has anyone tried aftermarket?
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