Does anybody know if there is a difference between a 99 slave cylinder vs a 96 i30 slave cylinder (LSD)

I can't put my car into gear without starting the car in gear. I replaced my transmission in January and it's worked until now. Master cylinder is fairly new (maybe 20-30k miles) Master cylinder is fully extended to clutch pedal, and slave cylinder has a bolt

Also, does anybody know the distance the slave cylinder should move when the clutch pedal is pressed? (I haven't looked that up yet.)

Thanks guys.

 

Also, clutch is maybe 6 months old...but grabs just fine.

 

Well i did a bit of research and and far as the slave cylinder goes...it should be the same as my 99 was. If anybody has any idea, please respond.

Thanks

 

Nothing

 

Looked in FSM; no spec for distance of travel.

 

Air in the hydraulics,
bad m/s cyl,
broken pedal/braket,
broken clutch fork,
or clutch disc has com apart and jammed a piece between the disk and flywheel/PP.

Determine wheter the slave cyl is moving the prescibed distance and go from there.

 

what is the distance it shoud travel?

 

I don't know. Download the FSM and check.
I'm at work so I can't help you.

 

When I bled my clutch I got a little more familiar with the system.
The Master and Slave cylinder are part of the same hydraulic circuit, so they act as one unit with no adjustments.
The FSM specifies to adjust the clutch pedal only.

When bleeding the clutch, you should bleed the slave first, pump and dump, pump and dump several times, then bleed the master, pump and dump, pump and dump several times. By following that process you are slowly pushing any air bubbles up and out.

As you pump and dump, keep watch over the master and never let it get low. I used standard DOT3 brake fluid (as specified in the FSM) when I bled mine.

I suggest you bleed your system, and if it still acts funny, replace your slave cylinder. Apparently they do go bad as well.

 

You would see the slave leaking hydraulic fluid if it was bad.
If it ain't leaking and the piston is moving, it's doing it's thing.

 

if you had no fluid in the line, the petal would be squishy and would require little to no effort to press with your foot. Is this what u are experiencing?

If so, something is leaking. Check the lines and both master and slave. If the lines are good, replace both master and slave. IIRC, they were both like 60 bucks new. Its very difficult to determine which is faulty so just replace both.

If u have pedal pressure, and your car does not go into gear, then u can have a gear linkage or shift fork issue.

 

It's not a shifter issue. His clutch is not disengaging for whatever reason. He needs to determine whether the clutch fork is traveling the prescribed distance. If yes, the transmissin needs to come out. If no, then the system needs to be diagnosed. A bad slave cylinder will be leaking, if no leak its good. A master cylinder will have either an external leak visible inside the car on the firewall, or an internal leak bast the piston seals.

diagnose hydraulics in this order.
- leaking slave
yes-replace
no-move on

-leaking hose
yes-replace
no-move on

master cyl
If everything else checks out, replace this as an internal leak will not be
detectable but highly likely.

 

Complete hydrolic system failure, had to replace both slave and master, and all lines...cleaned it up though, no more 2 bleeder crap