Hello, I recently purchased a 96 Maxima. The check engine light never comes on, but that is not what I am asking about. I went to the local auto parts store to check for codes. I got one saying improper gear ratio for second gear. This car has an auto trans. Is this something I should worry about? I doubt if I could fix this one myself due to lack of a lift and no idea how to work on a transmission. Thank you much for any input. The car has 204 k now.

 

Is an improper second gear ratio something I should worry about? I don't think it is exactly a DIY project.

 

Do you have the actual code, like maybe P0732? The descriptions that are built into code readers don't always describe the problem in Nissan terms.

In the FSM, P0732 is "A/T 2nd Gear Function". This malfunction is detected when the A/T does not shift into second gear position as instructed by the TCM. This is not caused by electrical malfunction (circuits open or shorted) but by mechanical malfunction such as control valve sticking, improper solenoid valve operation, etc.

My code reader will call P0732 "Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio".

Have you checked the light bulb for the Check engine light?

 

slippage on 2nd gear i am assuming, this is how it is with other automatic transmissions that i have dealt with. throws a code because the engine speed is not within the proper range for a given wheel speed, indicating slippage.

 

i'd be careful not to drive maxy too much with that issue. take it to a shop (trans) that you trust and have them run a diag on it to determine what can be done about it. make sure fluid is filled up too.

 

Howdy, the code is P0732, just checked the fluid, looks okay and there doesn't seem to be any driving issues other than having to let off the gas occasionally to shift. Haven't checked the bulb yet, all the other ones work. Near the #6 clylinder, there is a vacuum hose that isn't attached to anything. The Haynes manual doesn't exactly give a good description of what it is. Should check craigslist for people parting out Maximas to see if I can buy that part. Thank you for the help.

 

Would changing the transmission fluid help? It didn't smell burned, but it did look not quite as red as it comes out of the bottle. Sure surprised me to see I only needed three quarts of oil to change the oil, so if the dipstick is dry, just add one, not two quarts of oil?

 

That is the Transmission breather hose..DO NOT PLUG IT UP, it is supposed to be open

 

The hose you see by cyl # 6 is a breather hose for the transmission. No concern needed for this.

Approximately half of the transmission oil is held in the torque converter in the transmission and doesn't drain out when you remove the drain plug in the oil pan. You should have gotten around 4 quarts when you took the oil plug out, but go by the dip stick level when you refill it.

Personally I don't think changing the oil will help, but you could always prove me wrong. There are solenoids the are used to shift the gears and they have been known to fail. Being a pessimist, I think this is your problem.

 

lol, ironically i saw a thread about this when i was looking around in my max when i first got her and knew it was a breather by the way the hose was curled up on top.

 

The Check Engine Light (CEL) should illuminate for a few seconds when you first turn on the key. This "bulb check" function lets you know that the bulb is not burned out (or, if it does not light up when starting that it IS burned out). Most emission states (like Georgia) look at that first thing and will automatically fail you for emissions if the bulb does not go on when the key is turned to ON. Good luck.

 

Just unplugged the hose. Could that code have been caused by plugging it? Checked the trans fluid again today, it was barely in the crosshatches so I added a few ounces, amazing how much easier it is with a funnel. It sounded a little rough if my foot was lightly on the gas between 30 and 40 mph, if stomped the gas through that range, no issue.

My car is registered in a state that doesn't do safety or emissions inspections, so the CEL isn't a major concern, I do get checked for codes with the local parts store's code reader. Exhaust sounds like a fisher price lawnmower. Should pull the main cat to see if that is the problem. Much easier to "change" than the pre cat.

By changing the oil, I meant the 5w30 on the passenger side. It was blacker than the charcoal I use for grilling, not to mention I apparently had too much oil in there. I mistakenly put two quarts in with a dry dipstick because the guy I bought it from, unknown before buying was a dealer told me that the rag and half oil bottle were there to make it easier to put oil in. Apparently, this car was a trade in, then wholesaled, then sold to me. He didn't know where any of the fluids were. He actually thought the master cylinder was the power steering reservoir and the coolant reservoir was the windshield fluid container I really am not kidding, probably should have walked away there, but I needed a car and had just returned the insurance rental. Miracle I fit in the car, 6'5". Sorry about electron abuse

Seriously, thank you for the help, just posted a stuck spark plug boot idea that I haven't seen here.

 

Just saw the link on pulling the cluster, nowhere near as bad as I thought. Thought I would have to pull the steering wheel and airbag. Might try this weekend.

 

I added a few ounces of ATF, then erased the codes. Checked again, code is gone.

 

not checking fluids, ftl

 

FTL?

Getting all sorts of strange codes, the new plug wires and coil packs are coming soon! Random misfires.

 

For future reference torque converter only gets a half quart, and tranny gets 9 quarts when COMPLETELY empty. Drain and refill should be 6-7 qts.

 

Drain and refill is 4 quarts.

 

Yes between 4 and 5 quarts on a level surface to be specific. If you jack up the car on the passenger side front all the way up and then drain the fluid, you will get out at least 7 quarts. I am not making this up as I have done it personally last summer when I replaced screen and cleaned magnets.