, according to the Haynes (yeah, I know) manual, the idle air valve is bad. It looks nothing like what is in the parts store by that name. It is near the throttle cables . Mine is a black kinda cylinder with a tiny hose up top and each side of the bottom has a wider hose feeding into it. The car is stalling at lights, smells of gas and feels like I'm driving as Chevy Impala. Any advice would bemuch appreciated. I did buy one at a yard today, it isn't quite as bad as the original, soaking it in carb cleaner.

 

The IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) looks like this:

http://www.stockwiseauto.com/product...FUMS7AodZS4AvQ

It could possibly cause you to stall at a light but they usually don't. It more commonly causes the idle to race up and down from maybe 500 to 2K rpm. Your problem sounds more like the MAF.

 

This is probably one of the most common symptoms users have on this forum. Start out small, clean & inspect the MAF, IACV (pictured above) and their connections.

 

Thank you much, will try cleaning the MAF with carb cleaner. Hope it works, this weeks paycheck went to my security deposit.

 

DONT use carb cleaner... Use MAF cleaner like you are supposed to

 

found a different problem. One of the rubber connectors is.rather cracked.

 

really cute, put it back.together,.now the car stalls if I put it in gear or give it gas

 

taped up the rubber part, used MAF spray,.went back together, now the car won't run for long in idle. Give it gas or put in gear,.forget it.

 

Which hose was cracked?

When I had a vacuum leak it would do the same thing. I'd have someone start up the engine and listen for any hissing or "air noises" (lol). Inspect rubber hoses, look for anything cracked or missing. Inspect the stock air intake, the aging plastic parts tend to crack. Personally I've had problems near the "accordian" like tubing.

Also be sure you fully tightened the bolts to the IACV if you removed it.

 

it was the rubber that holds the MAF to the factory airbox cover. I used electrical tape to cover it, put it back together . There were no bolts or electrical for what the book said was the idle air valve. Runs about 30 seconds in park. Longer than 30seconds,.or putting it in gear or giving it gas instantly stalled it. Saw a YouTube video of a bad MAF, same exact thing for my car. Going to see if a friend will take me to a yard to pick up a MAF and that rubber piece. Doesn't look I'll make it to work tomorrow.

 

I know there are plenty of others who've had to swap out the maf and their car "comes back to life" .

Personally I've never seen a maf at the yard, they are like the first thing people pick up, there are a couple for sale in the classifieds though.

I remember seeing a thread not too long ago of people soldering or something with the maf's electrical connector to fix there issues, idk.

goodluck!

 

This is the IACV.



Is this what you are calling a idle air valve? It is in fact a evap canister purge valve.

 

thank you much, the Haynes nook called that the idle air valve.

 

Download the fsm and use the Haynes for fire starter.

 

lol, got the MAF at a yard for $50, car is running. Now working on exhaust leaks.

 

car is stalling , grrr

 

I take it this is the redesigned IACV after the redid the EVAP Purge Volume Control Valve on top of UIM since its the same motor being used?

 

To be honest I don't know, I just imbedded the image DinnisMik linked.

 

That aftermarket IACV looks identical to the redesigned OE Nissan IACV. It hogs up less space than the original IACV. I bought the OE IACV 3 years ago for only $138 at courtesyparts.com. Due to the surge in price I'm keeping the original IACV after fixing the AAC plunger.

 

Is your check engine light on? If yes, what codes are on there?

 

Sounds like swapping the MAF at least prolonged the stalling?