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Do I have a bad ignition switch?

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Old 04-28-2013, 04:21 PM
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Do I have a bad ignition switch?

I have been having issues for years with the car not starting when i turn they key. I would turn the key and it would do nothing. I would have to try a few time and it would start right up. It seemed to be worse in the hottest part of the summer. I did replace the starter a year ago and I hoped that it would fix the issue, but it continued.

I drove the car all winter with no new problems but I bought an Armada in Feb for more family room. The car has been sitting for a few months and now the problem seems much worse. There were no ECU codes that would explain anything.

I changed out the battery terminal connectors last week because the neg side had a crack. No help. I am thinking now about the ignition. What say you experts?

I see two options on advance auto parts website. One looks just a switch only and one is a switch and lock cylinder. I am thinking I should try the switch only first? It is only $30 and just looks like a wire harness.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2013, 04:26 PM
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Does sound like a switch. There are ways to test it so search for that.

and yeah the $30 one is the one you want. Not the one with the keys
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Old 04-28-2013, 06:40 PM
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When you say it will 'do nothing', do you mean that it won't crank, or that none of the dash lights or accessories turn on?

If it won't crank, keep the key in the start position and wiggle the key around, if you can make it start then, replace the ignition switch.
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Old 04-28-2013, 07:25 PM
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The dash lights remain on, but the accessories go off. Jiggling the key hasn't really ever done much for me.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:18 PM
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I had a similar issue that came up and I read up on the issue. I installed a new starter and a grounding kit. I was also told that it was probably the ignition switch. I went to remove the ignition switch and then tried to turn the ignition with a screwdriver and it fired up no problem every time.

I then read this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...start-car.html

I then threw a piece of duct tape on the ignition switch like you see in the thread above and it fixed up my problem like magic. It seems that in the 4th gen maximas the "T-like" connection between the ignition switch and the cylinder wears out over time and stops fully turning the ignition switch effectively. The piece of tape just gives it a lil bite to assist in this connection. It worked great for me(and free), this might be your issue as well.

Good luck!
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:28 AM
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The small metal dust cover on an old 3.5" floppy disk was perfect for me. I just cut a small square out of it and folded it into the "T" hole. Just so you know I read some do this with soda cans. This metal is JUST slightly thicker than a can.

Also we are talking like 1/4" by 1/4" piece of metal or tape, VERY VERY small. but it does make a difference in a worn out switch.
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Old 04-30-2013, 10:49 AM
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+1 on the metal strip. I first used a little piece of electrical tape, but after about a year it worked its way out. Then I cut a tiny strip out of a coke can and super glued it into the side of the T. It's been fine since.
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Old 04-30-2013, 11:26 AM
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If you are manual, hold the key in the start position and pump the clutch pedal in neutral. If automatic try starting ion neutral rather than park.
Try swapping the clutch interlock relay (or whatever its called for auto) with another relay.

When my ignition switch was acting up it would crank but not start, ZI fixed that with the shim trick however I am aware that others have had no crank no start for the same reason.
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Old 05-04-2013, 09:37 PM
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either the switch or the cylinder. ours was a combination of both. neither is too hard to replace.
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Old 07-05-2013, 08:22 PM
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Ignition lock cylinder tab fix

We used the electrical tape for about a week without problem, but switched to the pop can fix for fear that the electrical tape might get gummy in the extreme heat we've been having. So far the pop can shim is working like a charm!
I have yet to have a non-start.
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Old 07-05-2013, 09:24 PM
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It's most likely the ignition solenoid switch. I replaced mine a couple years back, not sure where I bought the part from though.
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Old 07-06-2013, 09:04 AM
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I have a similar issue with no starting but I have a brand new switch and start uer, so im also thinking its at the end of the lock cylinder cause i believe if i remove the ig switch and put the key in, car will start right up with no problem, someone explain what a (pop can fix is) going to try the tape first.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
I have a similar issue with no starting but I have a brand new switch and start uer, so im also thinking its at the end of the lock cylinder cause i believe if i remove the ig switch and put the key in, car will start right up with no problem, someone explain what a (pop can fix is) going to try the tape first.
I think they mean a "soda" pop can. The aluminum is real thin. just cut a tiny sliver and use it to make the ignition switch sit tighter into the lock cylinder.

People up north tend to call soda POP. Down south its usually just soda. same thing.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Phromethius
I think they mean a "soda" pop can. The aluminum is real thin. just cut a tiny sliver and use it to make the ignition switch sit tighter into the lock cylinder.

People up north tend to call soda POP. Down south its usually just soda. same thing.


lol yeah you are right we call it soda down south, but I have a code for a bad ignition swich upon running check engine light, i dont know but ill take it apart and see when it cools down tomarro.
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by maxinout93
lol yeah you are right we call it soda down south, but I have a code for a bad ignition swich upon running check engine light, i dont know but ill take it apart and see when it cools down tomarro.
There are no ignition switch codes. Best I can figure, you're talking about a P1320, which has a description of 'Ignition Signal', but that's ignition coil control.
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