myshelly2010

Okay.. So heres the deal.. i just bought my nissan about two weeks ago.. i had a honda before.. this is new to me to say the least.. thought that it was a nice car but went to take it to a shop to see what all i needed to do they told me that there was four codes that are on in my car but theres no check engine light the codes are: p1320, p0505, p0150, and p0325.. i changed the battery cable connector, the spark plugs, fuel filter and the Bank 2 sensor 1 o2 sensor, as well as the air filter, they were some of the suggestions of the autozone employee that helped me read the codes.. i like to work on my own car but i'm lost... it idles really rough then will stall out, ive read many forums saying diffrent things about what to change i was hoping it was just the o2 sensor but that didnt work.. should i try changing the Idle Air Control Valve(found one for $111) or should i try changing the coolant sensor(found one for $15)? or does anyone have any suggestions on what else could be wrong?

Ps Tried to be as descriptive as possible if any questions please ask
Thanks

Max139617

iTrader: (9)

Start by looking up a thread called " how to clean maf, throttle body ,iacv, and egr for dummies" and do everything in that thread.

You possibly have maf issues or iacv is clogged/dirty

speed racer

iTrader: (10)

I agree with the above. the iacv and egr typically causes the problem. just need to be cleaned.

catalinvint

If that fails go to the junkyard and get another MAF and change it. That was my issue.

DBear

Could also be a vacuum leak. Check your hoses.

maxinout93

change your pcv valve also, when I buy used cars I always do a good tune up, sometimes I even replace wear items just so I can have a peace of mind.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

4 codes and NO CHECK ENGINE light?

Something's very very fishy about this car you just bought...you need to get back in touch with the previous owner.

Fauken

iTrader: (6)

Also make sure you adjusted the IACV correctly. That will cause a rough idle and a stall.

myshelly2010

Okay so I cleaned the ivac, egr, and throttle body, also changed the o2 sensor, and alternater and battery after realizing they were bad.. As well as the coolant sensor.. Still have p0325 and p0505 ivac and knock sensor.. Should I change the maf and the ivac at the same time or just the ivac

myshelly2010

Also what should my car be idling at im unsure ifbi set it back at tge right idle after cleaning everything

maxinout93

If im not mistaken I think idle should be at 700 or 800 in drive and park, someone correct me if im wrong

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I wouldnt touch the IACV. If you have to adjust it to make your car idle right then you are just compensating for something else. If the IACV is bad then replace it. Ive been dealing with a hiccup in my idle for months now. Seems to be worse when I run my AC. Hard to diagnose once you have gone past the basics.

myshelly2010

Thanks, and the only reason ibasked was because I had took it off and "reprogramed" it when I put it back on adjusted the idle back I guess I got it right been idling arround 700, I think imma change my maf next n hope that fixes the problem.. If not ill try the ivac next..

tothemax2003

change your mass air flow sensor worlds of a difference.

626maximus

I had this problem but the cause was my knock sensor and bad ignition coil. changed all my coils and knock sensor. Also clean the MAF sensor after doing this clear the codes and see if they come back. And dont use cheap gas you must use 91 octane this cause your car to hesitate. It would be a good thing to add some fuel system cleaner.

myshelly2010

How can I test the ignition coils to see if there bad?

626maximus

Search for the threads on how to check coils. I just went to junk yard and bought some from there. The coils have to be OEM coils Cause if you use aftermarket ones your check engine light will stay on.

mmgio

Why do you guys think it's not the iac valve? That's what the code said. If it was my car I would clean the iac valve and see if it fixes the problem.If it does not I would replace the iac valve. Might want to look on ebay or salvage yards for a used oem one.

myshelly2010

so.. i changed out the MAF and i also changed the knock sensor just to be safe prob a good thing it was broken had a crack, but i put everything back together and the ks code is still coming up, could it not have a good ground connection or is something still wrong?

gruesome

You might just have a burned our bulb for check engine. I bought coil packs and boots from Amazon for about $95 for all six. Those codes didn't come back. They were aftermarket and fine.

myshelly2010

New update, someone had removed the check engine bulb, got a new one and changed the iacv went to get my car inspected and they said i still had 3 codes coming up i live in texas so i have all the smog testing and stuff... i reprogramed the new iacv and it seems to be doing great even getting better gas milage, my mechanic said the only thing there is to do is to drive the car for the ecu to reset itself i was wondering if i manually reset the ecu if there would be more problem codes since i reset it myself or if there is a way for me to speed up the ecu resetting itself??

bprice92

iTrader: (2)

Think of it that your ECU needs to "relearn" rather than "reset".
Your ECU requires you to drive in order to make sure "all systems are go". If you haven't driven enough for your ECU to relearn you will not pass emissions testing. At least that's how it is in AZ. If you DO reset your ECU, it basically wipes memory clean and you need it to relearn by driving. Any driving that you have done since having your new part installed has counted towards the relearning process.

I recommend just doing highway & city driving for a couple days. But if you want to be technical the learning procedure for your ECU is below, but it's kind of a pain in the butt to follow.



*Note this says for 96 manual, but will work for any 4th gen, if you're an automatic you wont have to worry about the "selector levels"