For those who've had cars stolen and recovered, or attempted theft...
01-15-2002, 07:01 AM
#1
U wanna try me young boy?
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2001
Posts: 1,024
For those who've had cars stolen and recovered, or attempted theft...
I'm doing some research on how to most effectively use a kill switch. I'd like to hear about how the theives started the car. What did they break? How did they break the steering column? Did they smash off the ignition barrel to reach the electricals behind? 
Did you have a kill switch that they defeated or found? Did you have an aftermarket alarm that they defeated? Did you have an alarm or kill switch that prevented the theft? If so, without giving away too much info, how does your kill switch disable the vehicle, and is it an existing accessory or hidden dedicated switch. Does it auto-arm or must you enable it manually?
Thanks!
( BTW - CLUB owners - theives would like to thank you for providing them with a built-in breaker-bar for your steering lock
) If you are going to use the club, have the long end pointing to the windshield side of the A-pillar (if it will fit) because the 'StopLock' that I had in England was a nice fit right in that corner, and theives couldn't turn the wheel far enough to use the long end as a breaker-bar. If this doesn't work for you, try to find another place where the club will not be able to turn at all. 
(Posted in General Max, and 4th Gen)
Did you have a kill switch that they defeated or found? Did you have an aftermarket alarm that they defeated? Did you have an alarm or kill switch that prevented the theft? If so, without giving away too much info, how does your kill switch disable the vehicle, and is it an existing accessory or hidden dedicated switch. Does it auto-arm or must you enable it manually?Thanks!
( BTW - CLUB owners - theives would like to thank you for providing them with a built-in breaker-bar for your steering lock
) If you are going to use the club, have the long end pointing to the windshield side of the A-pillar (if it will fit) because the 'StopLock' that I had in England was a nice fit right in that corner, and theives couldn't turn the wheel far enough to use the long end as a breaker-bar. If this doesn't work for you, try to find another place where the club will not be able to turn at all. (Posted in General Max, and 4th Gen)
01-15-2002, 09:02 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,835
Speaking of steering wheel locks, the one I use on my car is a unique one. It's the Autolok, not the brake Autolock, but rather the big yellow monstrosity from Europe. It fits over the steering wheel and was the only lock which passed Britain's Home Office tests a couple years back when 4Car did their breakin tests. I remember trying to order one from Europe for 90 pounds (around $145), but was pretty lucky to find it at Auto Parts Warehouse for only $40. If you can find this, get it...it's much better than a club. Keep in mind it's bulky though.
01-16-2002, 06:39 PM
#4
My max had the factory alarm only. Two windows were broken when I got it back. Why two windows were broken? I'm not sure. I did find a brick and a large rock inside afterwards. I also found a pair of vice-grips. I was told the vice-grips were used to start it. The part of the steering column that has the ignition switch was broken. I guess the brick was used for this and the window also.
You ask...
Did they smash off the ignition barrel to reach the electricals behind?
There aren't any wires (if that's what you mean) once the lock is out.
All that is needed is a screwdiver to insert into a piece of metal with a slot in it. That is what's under the cylinder.
One of my ideas is and I don't know if it's possible is to connect a switch up to something like the fuel pump and the factory alarm. If the alarm goes off it would trip the switch and shut the fuel pump.
This fuel pump cutoff switch would have to be reset manually to start the car. So this would stay activated ie: no fuel, even after the alarm stops sounding. The reset would be hidden and hard to find and get at.
You ask...
Did they smash off the ignition barrel to reach the electricals behind?
There aren't any wires (if that's what you mean) once the lock is out.
All that is needed is a screwdiver to insert into a piece of metal with a slot in it. That is what's under the cylinder.
One of my ideas is and I don't know if it's possible is to connect a switch up to something like the fuel pump and the factory alarm. If the alarm goes off it would trip the switch and shut the fuel pump.
This fuel pump cutoff switch would have to be reset manually to start the car. So this would stay activated ie: no fuel, even after the alarm stops sounding. The reset would be hidden and hard to find and get at.
01-16-2002, 06:57 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,659
thats a pretty good idea 
Originally posted by kmax
My max had the factory alarm only. Two windows were broken when I got it back. Why two windows were broken? I'm not sure. I did find a brick and a large rock inside afterwards. I also found a pair of vice-grips. I was told the vice-grips were used to start it. The part of the steering column that has the ignition switch was broken. I guess the brick was used for this and the window also.
You ask...
Did they smash off the ignition barrel to reach the electricals behind?
There aren't any wires (if that's what you mean) once the lock is out.
All that is needed is a screwdiver to insert into a piece of metal with a slot in it. That is what's under the cylinder.
One of my ideas is and I don't know if it's possible is to connect a switch up to something like the fuel pump and the factory alarm. If the alarm goes off it would trip the switch and shut the fuel pump.
This fuel pump cutoff switch would have to be reset manually to start the car. So this would stay activated ie: no fuel, even after the alarm stops sounding. The reset would be hidden and hard to find and get at.
My max had the factory alarm only. Two windows were broken when I got it back. Why two windows were broken? I'm not sure. I did find a brick and a large rock inside afterwards. I also found a pair of vice-grips. I was told the vice-grips were used to start it. The part of the steering column that has the ignition switch was broken. I guess the brick was used for this and the window also.
You ask...
Did they smash off the ignition barrel to reach the electricals behind?
There aren't any wires (if that's what you mean) once the lock is out.
All that is needed is a screwdiver to insert into a piece of metal with a slot in it. That is what's under the cylinder.
One of my ideas is and I don't know if it's possible is to connect a switch up to something like the fuel pump and the factory alarm. If the alarm goes off it would trip the switch and shut the fuel pump.
This fuel pump cutoff switch would have to be reset manually to start the car. So this would stay activated ie: no fuel, even after the alarm stops sounding. The reset would be hidden and hard to find and get at.
01-16-2002, 07:07 PM
#6
I've never had my car stolen, but I thought I'd contribute anyway.
I have an Autolock...the one that goes on the brake pedal. I think it is the best thing. It's like impossible to break off and why would a thief want to get into that low akward position when they could move on to an eaiser target.
I also plan on getting a good alarm system. I'm liking that idea that kmax posted. I think I'm gonna have to look into that.
Later,
-Nick
I have an Autolock...the one that goes on the brake pedal. I think it is the best thing. It's like impossible to break off and why would a thief want to get into that low akward position when they could move on to an eaiser target.
I also plan on getting a good alarm system. I'm liking that idea that kmax posted. I think I'm gonna have to look into that.
Later,
-Nick
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