Keyless entry not working in a weird way
07-28-2013, 05:11 PM
#1
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Posts: 5
Keyless entry not working in a weird way
I have a 1998 Maxima GXE. A few years ago both my remotes started randomly not working. Up until now it gradually got worse. Distance was never a problem - they worked close and far from the car. When they didn't work, they didn't work at all. I changed batteries in both remotes and it didn't help. Now, neither remote will lock or unlock the car at all.
I took a look at the unit in the trunk and both cables are connected to it. I tried to reprogram the remotes doing the whole insert key 6 times thing. After the 6th insertion, I hear two faint clicks coming from the rear, but my hazards never flash. If I then insert the key and turn to ACC and press a button on the remote, then take out the key and open/close the door, it still doesn't work.
Since I do hear two clicks from the rear, what might that indicate? Is there a relay that might need replacing? A fuse? Or do I need a whole new keyless entry unit?
I took a look at the unit in the trunk and both cables are connected to it. I tried to reprogram the remotes doing the whole insert key 6 times thing. After the 6th insertion, I hear two faint clicks coming from the rear, but my hazards never flash. If I then insert the key and turn to ACC and press a button on the remote, then take out the key and open/close the door, it still doesn't work.
Since I do hear two clicks from the rear, what might that indicate? Is there a relay that might need replacing? A fuse? Or do I need a whole new keyless entry unit?
07-28-2013, 07:27 PM
#2
Remotes do go bad, but it would be strange for both remotes to go bad at the same time.
The most common thing is the little switches under the buttons go bad. Open up the remote(s), and take out the little printed circuit board.. Flip it over and look at the switches. You may want to clean all the muck and yuck off using a tooth brush and some rubbing alcohol. Press on the switch and you should hear a distinct click. The best way is to check each switch with an ohmmeter.
When you try to program a remote, the first thing that happens after the key six times thing is that the hazard lights flash. When this happens, all remotes have been erased from the SECU's memory. If you do not get a remote programmed, the previous remote(s) will not work.
I don't know about the unit in the trunk clicking. I can't say that I have heard mine clicking, nor have I ever tried to listen to it. There is a relay associated with the remote system, but all it does is makes the lights flash. You could pull it out and throw it away and the doors would still lock and unlock.
The fuse that supplies power to the controller unit in the trunk is Fuse # 40, 7.5 amps. Fuse # 40 is in the topmost right corner of the fuse block. But it also powers other things as well, like the clock and radio station memory.
The controller unit sends signals to the BCM (Body Control Module) and the BCM is what actually locks/unlocks the doors. Maybe you have a wire harness problem.
The most common thing is the little switches under the buttons go bad. Open up the remote(s), and take out the little printed circuit board.. Flip it over and look at the switches. You may want to clean all the muck and yuck off using a tooth brush and some rubbing alcohol. Press on the switch and you should hear a distinct click. The best way is to check each switch with an ohmmeter.
When you try to program a remote, the first thing that happens after the key six times thing is that the hazard lights flash. When this happens, all remotes have been erased from the SECU's memory. If you do not get a remote programmed, the previous remote(s) will not work.
I don't know about the unit in the trunk clicking. I can't say that I have heard mine clicking, nor have I ever tried to listen to it. There is a relay associated with the remote system, but all it does is makes the lights flash. You could pull it out and throw it away and the doors would still lock and unlock.
The fuse that supplies power to the controller unit in the trunk is Fuse # 40, 7.5 amps. Fuse # 40 is in the topmost right corner of the fuse block. But it also powers other things as well, like the clock and radio station memory.
The controller unit sends signals to the BCM (Body Control Module) and the BCM is what actually locks/unlocks the doors. Maybe you have a wire harness problem.
07-28-2013, 07:42 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 5
Remotes do go bad, but it would be strange for both remotes to go bad at the same time.
The most common thing is the little switches under the buttons go bad. Open up the remote(s), and take out the little printed circuit board.. Flip it over and look at the switches. You may want to clean all the muck and yuck off using a tooth brush and some rubbing alcohol. Press on the switch and you should hear a distinct click. The best way is to check each switch with an ohmmeter.
When you try to program a remote, the first thing that happens after the key six times thing is that the hazard lights flash. When this happens, all remotes have been erased from the SECU's memory. If you do not get a remote programmed, the previous remote(s) will not work.
I don't know about the unit in the trunk clicking. I can't say that I have heard mine clicking, nor have I ever tried to listen to it. There is a relay associated with the remote system, but all it does is makes the lights flash. You could pull it out and throw it away and the doors would still lock and unlock.
The fuse that supplies power to the controller unit in the trunk is Fuse # 40, 7.5 amps. Fuse # 40 is in the topmost right corner of the fuse block. But it also powers other things as well, like the clock and radio station memory.
The controller unit sends signals to the BCM (Body Control Module) and the BCM is what actually locks/unlocks the doors. Maybe you have a wire harness problem.
The most common thing is the little switches under the buttons go bad. Open up the remote(s), and take out the little printed circuit board.. Flip it over and look at the switches. You may want to clean all the muck and yuck off using a tooth brush and some rubbing alcohol. Press on the switch and you should hear a distinct click. The best way is to check each switch with an ohmmeter.
When you try to program a remote, the first thing that happens after the key six times thing is that the hazard lights flash. When this happens, all remotes have been erased from the SECU's memory. If you do not get a remote programmed, the previous remote(s) will not work.
I don't know about the unit in the trunk clicking. I can't say that I have heard mine clicking, nor have I ever tried to listen to it. There is a relay associated with the remote system, but all it does is makes the lights flash. You could pull it out and throw it away and the doors would still lock and unlock.
The fuse that supplies power to the controller unit in the trunk is Fuse # 40, 7.5 amps. Fuse # 40 is in the topmost right corner of the fuse block. But it also powers other things as well, like the clock and radio station memory.
The controller unit sends signals to the BCM (Body Control Module) and the BCM is what actually locks/unlocks the doors. Maybe you have a wire harness problem.
That's the thing, I hear two faint clicks from the back but the hazards don't actually flash. No indication of hazards flashing on the dashboard and no turnsignal-click from the dashboard. So I think something is trying to make the hazards flash, but not succeeding.
Clock and radio works, so I guess it's not the fuse then.
And like I said, I tried to go through with the programming even though the hazards didn't flash, but it still didn't work. I checked all the wiring I could see under the trunk liner and it's all connected.
But what's really weird is how it gradually worked less and less over a period of about two years until it finally quit working completely.
06-04-2016, 09:37 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 4
Shorted out some fuses after the 6th insertion
You should check the fuse compartment behind the pull out panel on driver side near the knee rest area. You may have popped out some fuses there. Replace the burnt out fuses with the spare ones which are on the right side of harness, the problem should be fixed.
I have a 1998 Maxima GXE. A few years ago both my remotes started randomly not working. Up until now it gradually got worse. Distance was never a problem - they worked close and far from the car. When they didn't work, they didn't work at all. I changed batteries in both remotes and it didn't help. Now, neither remote will lock or unlock the car at all.
I took a look at the unit in the trunk and both cables are connected to it. I tried to reprogram the remotes doing the whole insert key 6 times thing. After the 6th insertion, I hear two faint clicks coming from the rear, but my hazards never flash. If I then insert the key and turn to ACC and press a button on the remote, then take out the key and open/close the door, it still doesn't work.
Since I do hear two clicks from the rear, what might that indicate? Is there a relay that might need replacing? A fuse? Or do I need a whole new keyless entry unit?
I took a look at the unit in the trunk and both cables are connected to it. I tried to reprogram the remotes doing the whole insert key 6 times thing. After the 6th insertion, I hear two faint clicks coming from the rear, but my hazards never flash. If I then insert the key and turn to ACC and press a button on the remote, then take out the key and open/close the door, it still doesn't work.
Since I do hear two clicks from the rear, what might that indicate? Is there a relay that might need replacing? A fuse? Or do I need a whole new keyless entry unit?
06-04-2016, 11:21 AM
#7
You should check the dates before trying to solve the problem that has either been solved long ago or given up on.
06-05-2016, 12:13 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 4
I'm just trying to share the experience with all Nissan Maxima owners so anyone else who has the same problems later on, would know what to do. Even though this thread was so old and the owner may no longer have the car...
Last edited by llchen888; 06-05-2016 at 12:14 PM. Reason: Typing error
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