99 maxima with p1440 code.

I replaced the gas cap to eliminate that as the culprit.
I replaced the solenoids, and the light keeps coming on.

My plates are about to expire tommorow and im stuck trying to figure this out on my own the mechanic charged me 450 bucks and it didnt fix it and now i cant afford to pay someone else because i just dont have it.

What steps should i take to find the culprit?

I really need some help here guys i have the tenacity to do the work just dont know what to check.

I will have my wife checking in every 15 minutes to see if any replies come in thanks for any help or advice you can give thank you!

 

Here are some threads to read about others who have had the P1440 as well...

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...569-p1440.html

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-go-away.html


I've never had that code (yet) so i can't give you firsthand knowledge, but I do have a question - the only work you did was the new gas cap, yes?

You mention solenoids...which ones are you referring to?

 

On my '97, I found a nipple on one of the small units on bracket just in front of the cannister (driver's side, just in front of rear wheel) to be cracked, but the short hose held it in place so it was very hard to find. I replaced all those units and the bracket for about $25 from a junkyard about 2.5 years ago; it has been fine ever since. I also cleaned up the big valve on the cannister and made sure that it was working smoothly. There is also at least one valve in the EVAP system in the engine compartment - and vacuum lines between the engine compartment and the cannister itself. Leak could be anywhere in the system. Good luck; this is a PITA system to troubleshoot.

 

OP, see this http://forums.maxima.org/8827440-post6.html

 

http://www.boredmder.com/ecucodes/in...1999&DTC=P1440

 

There's a real good chance that it's the EVAP Canister Control Valve. $149 shop fix. You mentioned replacing the solenoids. I'm assuming that included the EGRC solenoid valve? $100 part you can DIY. Those two fixes cover a LOT of ground. Otherwise a smoke test is the way to go. EVAP leaks and problems are very tough to pin down by yourself.

Try resetting the ECU yourself again even if the mechanic did it. From there you have to run the car at least 100-150 miles or more. EVAP ready codes take the longest to reset.

 

This might sound funny but I had the same thing along with another code. Removed the valve plunger thing in the back by the Evap box left side rear, hit it on the ground a few times and gunk came out. Plunger was stuck. Re install, cleared code, code free ever since

 

Yea, u basically have to check the entire EVAP system. Its a major PITA. Get a copy of the FSM and trace all of the Evap hoses and blow thruough them. Clean every nipple. Check connection at charcoal canister and solenoid valve. Remove and verify all are working per FSM. Check for hose leaks.

Take the car back to the mech and ask him to check again. He owes you something free since he didnt fix it.

 

Sorry I've been busy and haven't been able to update until now.

I went a bought a disco fog machine to smoke the system and nothing is leaking at first I thought it wasn't working until I smoked the gas tank.

They work alright! cheaper then paying someone else to smoke it 30 bucks total and I got a new tool, after blowing/clearing out the lines I found a piece of charcoal in a line so that means its the canister well it was the canister it basically came apart and now I remember when it happened. I got rear ended and didn't realize I did have damage so be careful letting him go when you don't see any damage (lesson learned)!

Replacing the canister and driving it about 26 miles and MIL/SES light went off. going for emissions tommorow.