with everything hooked up normally, after car goes to "sleep", i have a draw of .35amps...way high. i've tried popping numerous fuses, link etc and when i take out fuse #40 (uppermost right hand side of under-dash fusebox and which is labelled "battery : electrical parts"), it drops to .01amps after going to sleep. i've eliminated door chime, visors, antenna & key fob receiver unit as potential culprits as well as trank alarm switch and driver's door window/door lock control. i've yet to check clock, instrustment cluster, bcm, door locks, obd port and security led (maybe bose stereo also?). anyone have a hunch as to what item it may be that's cuasing this big drain or have any tips on how to best/most easily check out these other items that run off of fuse #40 or any other items that run off this fuse that i missed to mention. thanks for any helpful input and i hope i figure this out before winter.

 

I never found mine...it just kept draining. The car never went to sleep and I checked all the things you just mentioned, including the truck release. I just gave up and installed a kill switch (on off for that fuse)...since I don't drive the car too often, I just switch it off when I know I won't be using it for a while.

Sorry, that's all I can say.

 

Here are the things that use fuse #40 that I know of. I can't guarantee I have everything, but I do have a few more items besides what you listed. I am not aware of fuse # 40 being used by the power windows or door locks.

Fuse # 40 supplies power to the following items:

Ignition key lock assembly, the key in switch, then to BCM pin 23
clock, to keep the time
radio, to keep station pre-set memory (Bose & non-Bose)
optional CD player unit (non-Bose)
power antenna
door lock remote control receiver unit
chime for door open, lights on, seat belt not fastened
security led
OBD port
vanity mirror lights
transmission control module, pin 23(?)

 

When I first bought my max I have a horrible problem with fuse 40. I have a short somewhere in the car and everytime I tried to replace the fuse it would pop immediately. Because of this I couldn't get my emissions done because I couldn't get any power to the obd. This s**** was a huge pain. I ended up just paying someone to rewire the entire obd port to a different fuse.

 

it was the bose headunit! after disconnecting it, draw is .010 to .020 in sleep mode (the higher reading is when the security led flashes). the unit had stopped working a while back but was still drawing current. now what to do about it!?! thanks for the input everyone.

 

Great job finding the problem!

You don't have to plug the radio in, the car will run fine without it. Or was that sarcasm that I failed to understand?

 

i don;t know if i should get a direct plug-in replacement or go aftermarket. i like the idea of no messing around but ~15 year old electronics i don't like the idea of so much. it seems (from a cursery review of bose hu's) that the 99's may be a bit better than the 95-98's, or that may just be wishful thinking on my part. with the age, miles & battle scars on my max, i don't want to put a lot of $ or a lot of time into it.

 

Unless you can see the date manufactured tag for the head unit, you won't know if it was made for a 99.

I had a similar dilemma a week ago when my 2000 Bose hu died. I ended up getting another Bose hu because I got it cheap, $50. Otherwise, for about the same price as most used Bose hu's go for, I needed to get an inexpensive aftermarket radio, the Pac Roem NIS-1 adapter, the antenna adapter and a dash mount kit.

 

+1 on new aftermarket unit. The old OEM units just are not worth messing around with. Good luck.

 

got used bose hu from 98 (manufactured oct 97) for under $20 shipped on ebay; will take a chance at this price. supposedly, it works fine.

 

Hope it works for you so that you can spend your time relaxing.

 

just an fyi, it worked out real good. hu works fine (radio, cd & full display (didn't check cassette for i don't believe i have any left) and, most imp[ortantly, when it went into sleep mode, the draw was only ~ 10 milliamps!!! now i just hope that it holds. thanks for the input & follow-up.