Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

I need some advice. The only code I get is 1105 Map/Baro sensor. Then 13-2 is the only code I get on the ecu itself.
The car will not idle correctly. Normally it idles around 650 and it used to actually increase rpm to 750 when using AC. But recently it really drops idle when I turn the AC on to around 500 or 400 and even stalling and dying. I checked for vacuum leaks and pretty certain I found none. I tried two different IACV and same thing. Can anyone help here?
I have the 00VI by the way if that helps, and I've had it about 3 months now before this issue cropped up. Aside from running a bit rich really had no issues.
EGR delete and VIAS delete.
Untuned at the moment.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I would check the resistance of the stepper motor coils in the IACV. The 2000 stepper motors like to short out.

There is also a fudge factor that I don't know exactly what to think about. The resistance of the stepper motor coils are different between the 4th and 5th gen. 30 ohms for the 4th gen and 22 ohms for the 5th gen. Whether this is enough difference to damage the driver transistors in the ECU, I don't know.

But if you have shorted windings in the IACV motor, it's very possible that the ECU is damaged.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

I checked the stepper motor and I saw 30 ohms between each set of terminals.
I'm using the 1999 IACV not the 2k. Using an IACV adaptor.
The ECU is my next concern, but is there a way to test the ECU I wonder.
I know that the IACV purple solenoid connected to the oil pressure switch is opening during steering turning. Interesting that the 95-98 Maxima IACV's used TWO of these (pink and purple) and the 99's use just the one. The pink on the 95-98 is connected to the AC Relay and when the AC is on, it activates the pink plunger to open up. I wonder how the 99's compensated for the AC plunger not being there?

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Now I have a rough idle like it's misfiring, and it threw the MAF code p0100...Could it have been the MAF all along?

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Now it won't turn over even though I have 12.5 at the battery. New scan said ignition fault. So I removed the ig switch and per Haynes I tested for continuity on Acc, On, and Start. None of the continuity tests were up to par with a 'good' ig switch. So I took it apart. I cleaned the copper contacts. Reassembled it. SAME results. I looks like suchg a simple device and none of the wires are frayed/broken. So my girl has a 95 max I'm going to swap the ig switch to see if that makes a diff. BTW, at first it started to turn over then became real sluggish like I was hydrolocked or something, then it just wouldn't turn over... Since I now have the cable on tb tensioned up for compensating for bad idle would this cause excessive fuel to rush into cylinders?

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

I swapped out the ecu and it works! I also had my starter rebuilt because the brushes were bad.