Jeff LiMato

I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima. Just bought it. Keyless remote did not come with car, just thought I needed to buy one. Please bare with me as I explain.

Almot all keys broken where they would go around a key ring. Thought that was odd. Keys all start the car, but they are easily removed from the ignition while running.

I purchased after maket keyless remote to have programmed. I and the mechanic cannot get into progamming mode. Mechanic replaced fuses and rebooted system still cannot get into program mode. Mechanic is stumped. mechanic wants to try a new cut Nissan key to see if that will go into mode.

Could it be something with the tumblers in the ignition switch? This is my daugherter's first car and feel keyless remote would be handy for safety reasons. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The ignition key cylinder combined with the key itself have too much wear. That is why the key comes out. However, that has nothing to do with the remote. And a new key would not help the remote issue, guaranteed.

The first thing you have to figure out is if the car came with the option for a remote. It was not a standard feature. Ask org member Amerikaner83.

Look in the trunk on the passenger side. You will need to remove the trim panel that is on the side. Then look in front of the power antenna motor, between the outside fender and the metal support. If there is a metal box bolted to the support, the car was built with keyfob remote.

Maybe the procedure you are using is incorrect. Here is a procedure that works.

1. Unlock all doors and get in car.

2. Close and lock all doors with power door lock switch on driver's door.

3. Insert the ignition key and completely remove it at least 6 times
within 10 seconds. The hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will
then flash twice and all previous remotes will be cleared.

4. Turn ignition key to "ACC" position.

5. Push any button on the new remote control key fob once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

If you are programming just one remote, go to step 10.
If you need to activate additional remote controllers, continue with Step 6.

6. Manually unlock the driver's door only then lock again with door lock
****.

7. Push lock button on the additional remote controller once.

8. Hazard warning lamps (both turn signals) will then flash twice and
additional remote is programmed.

9. For additional remotes, go back to step 6.

10. When done, open the driver's door to exit programming state.


NOTE: A maximum of 4 remotes can be programmed to any ONE car.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

If it won't go into programming mode at all (no hazards blinking) your BCM is not keyless compatible. You need a keyless compatible BCM, receiver module in trunk, right side by the jack, and the antenna for the keyless system.

I did this in my 99SE. Mine would not enter program mode either. The above fixed it, now I have factory keyless

Look for a thread I made titled "brand new keyless entry" or the like...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Got a moment to educate me?

I thought that the antenna for the keyfob was in the rear window glass. Based on that thought, he would probably need to get a shielded cable between the glass and the receiver module.

Nissanserguy

iTrader: (14)

I had the same dilemma on my '99. Instead of buying all the factory component stuff, all that I bought was a universal alarm system and installed it myself.

Phromethius

Be careful, those have a tendency to murder Starter Solenoids. I've gone through three sets of them till I removed the after market killswitch relay that was modified into my car. No more bad starters or solenoids. This was installed "professionally" by a shop before I owned the vehicle.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

you are correct. ALSO, the FM antenna is in the glass as well. For my car which didn't come with the keyless, there was only one prong to plug into...so I had to create a Y plug that enabled both the standard radio plug AND teh keyless to both plug into the antenna wire on the back glass.



The antenna wire goes from the glass TO the receiver module in the trunk.

It is also grounded to a nearby bolt...here's a pic (with just the one prong):

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! I think I got too hung up on the way you said it.

timpane

ush any button on the new remote control key fob once. At this time,
the car learns the new ID code. The hazard warning lamps (both turn
signals) will then flash twice.

tosheto

iTrader: (5)

^ Say what?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It appears that Mr timpane doesn't believe in reading the first post.

Nissanserguy

iTrader: (14)

Oh yeah? That's crazy.

Yeah I disabled my kill switch deal, I have a '99 so they can't start it without a key anyways. And it's not a remote start, just a basic keyless, that I added an extra shock sensor so now there is two. Thing works great, 2 years now

LTXMitch

My '99 se is the same way, I'm trying to upgrade to keyless. My door and ignition lock barrels are worn to nothing. Nissan will give you new door barrels and new ignition with new keys. Mine are so worn out, I locked my keys in my car and got and old padlock key and was able unlock the door. My keys are almost bald. I didn't check a price but I'm sure its not cheap. Also I bought a remote and thought because I have power locks and a security light I had keyless, I was wrong. Luckily they came ready for it only missing the (expensive) keyless entry equipment

gershon

Have 1995 Maxima GLE, original remote fobs stopped working. New battery in one of them, still nothing. Tried to followed DennisMik's 10 step process.
- at step 3, hazard lights flashed after 4 insert/remove cycles. Is this a problem or still OK?
- after this flash, followed steps 4 and 5 using my original fob with its new battery but the hazard lights *did not flash*.
- followed to step 10.

Fob still has no effect. Any idea what may be wrong ? Is the process different for 1995 Maxima?

LTXMitch

Something with fob.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You said "original remote fobs". This says to me that you have more than one. Did both of them stop working at the same time? If so, then the problem is not with the key fobs themselves, but with either the BCM or the receiver unit in the trunk.

Check fuse # 40 that supplies power to the receiver unit. It is in the dash panel fuse block, the top most right corner. But I doubt that it is bad because this fuse supplies power to about a dozen other things and you probably would have noticed that the clock or interior lights or radio or something not working.

Do you live in the snowbelt and have the rear fender rusting out behind the right rear wheel? That would allow moisture to get at the remote controller that is back there.

But if the remotes stopped working at different times, it's possible that you have 2 bad remotes. The little switches under the buttons do go bad.

gershon

I was tempted to blame the fob but it doesn't seem to be the problem. A few more data points
- Both original fobs, both with new batteries, neither works now.
- The 10 step process to reprogram codes breaks at the same point [second set of flashes never happens] with both fobs
- Security light behaves as it always did, solid while I'm out of car, blinks when I'm in with door open, etc
- Using the real key I can lock and unlock all doors = with doors locked, the first turn unlocks driver door, second turn unlocks all others, locking all doors with 2 turns, etc.
- All other lights, instruments, radio work fine
- Snowbelt is not the issue, it never snows (or even rains...) in Southern California
- 2 weeks ago the rear passenger door's power window mechanism broke [small plastic piece..]. Got a Pep Boys replacement, disassembled the door mechanism, replaced everything, reassembled, now it all works perfect. Can lift and lower that window from its own door switch and from the driver door switch.

Late breaking news.... I thought the rear door mechanism replacement may have confused the receiver in the trunk. I pulled both wires (antenna lead and the other bundle) then reconnected them. It came back to life and the fob works fine now, just as it did before !!! Life is good again.
Thanks to all who offered advice.

jfactor

I had a similar issue with being able to remove the key while running in my 94 isuzu pup. Turns out the key got so worn down from years of use that it had enough slack to be pulled out at any position. My rarely used non-worn spare key wouldn't pull out while running even when pulling on the key pretty good. At any rate it's easy enough to get new keys cut.

Chrono

I initially bought a remote online as my my 97 SE did not come with a remote, and found that it didn't enter programming mode. After careful consideration I decided to just install a 2 way Viper remote start system

I would urge anyone to consider this as it is WAYYYY better than the stock system. I can start and lock/unlock my car from a mile away (tested it). It's awesome, and was worth the money I spent.