Hey ladies and gentlemen of the org, I've got another question for you. After some searching and coming up empty, mostly from unanswered threads, I was wondering if anyone out there could give me some advice in the form of telling me what would cause a leak/squeek from this point:

I've noticed over the past couple weeks that my clutch fluid reservoir empties itself over time. I've had to refill it twice after feeling a weak pedal before I left for work. After attempting to tighten all bolts pertaining to the clutch line pathway, I finally asked my roommate to push the clutch pedal for me. While doing so, I noticed a fairly loud squeak coming from around the clutch fork under the boot and a stream of fluid coming from underneath. I wiped off the fluid, got in the car, and pumped the pedal about a dozen more times only to find a pretty good flow of fluid coming back out from under the boot.
This being the case, can anyone identify what would cause this particular issue? Can I somehow replace the boot, or is there another underlying problem at play? Also, do these two issues seem related to the same source? I seem to remember the squeak being there for a while now, whereas the leak is just as of the last month.
Thanks in advance!
David
END RESULTS FOR SEARCHERS
That got it, thanks guys! I replaced the slave cylinder and the entire clutch line with a stainless one from RTPerformance, the same guys from the group deal section. I actually bought it from ebay, (their seller name is rtperformance118) and they gave me the same free shipping deal by mentioning that I was an org member.
The leak is totally stopped at even the squeaking is gone. I can pump the clutch pedal all day and the fork doesn't utter a sound. The pedal feels much smoother throughout the swing and bleeding the entire line has resulted in a much firmer pedal overall. If anyone is curious, I used ATE Brake fluid for the clutch job. It came in a liter can and only a little bit of it did the entire clutch system. I plan to use the rest in my brake lines later this month or next spring. Here's a list of all the parts I bought for future reference of searchers:
Clutch slave cylinder (never heard of the brand before, but it's a solid piece; works perfectly) -
New Generation S0611 Premium Hydraulic Infiniti, Nissan Clutch Slave Cylinder : Amazon.com : Automotive
ATE DOT 4 brake fluid -
One piece stainless steel clutch line for 4th gens (remember to ask for the free shipping for maxima.org members) -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110584769949...84.m1439.l2649
All in all, about $90. Not the cheapest way to repair a slave cylinder by any means, but it feels good knowing it should all last the duration of my Maxima ownership.
Also, the bleeding process seemed a bit difficult at first because the pedal falls to the floor when the bleed valve is open. What I did to get a nice firm pedal was pump the new fluid through a few times by hand by lifting the pedal up and pushing it to the floor about 15-20 times while remembering to top off the reservoir. After you've done this, put a 10mm closed end wrench on the valve (if it's not there already) and tighten the valve. Use the fluid you've collected in a bottle (or shoe...or whatever you may end up using...
) and make sure the hose from the bleed valve (in my case bendy straws) is submerged into the fluid to prevent air from flowing back into the line. If you have a long enough hose, you can rest the bottle on the ground or on the plastic skid plate beneath the radiator. Now have someone you trust get in your car and pump the clutch pedal a few times and then hold it to the floor. While it's held, loosen the valve until you see some fluid come out and then tighten it again. If your hose isn't transparent, just do it by feel. You may also need to remove the battery ground cable to get clearance for wrench movement. Your pedal will be flat to the floor again after this, but just lift it up and it'll build pressure immediately. Do this two or three or ten times until you feel it's firm enough, and do a final tighten of the bleed valve with a socket wrench just to be sure it's snug.

I've noticed over the past couple weeks that my clutch fluid reservoir empties itself over time. I've had to refill it twice after feeling a weak pedal before I left for work. After attempting to tighten all bolts pertaining to the clutch line pathway, I finally asked my roommate to push the clutch pedal for me. While doing so, I noticed a fairly loud squeak coming from around the clutch fork under the boot and a stream of fluid coming from underneath. I wiped off the fluid, got in the car, and pumped the pedal about a dozen more times only to find a pretty good flow of fluid coming back out from under the boot.
This being the case, can anyone identify what would cause this particular issue? Can I somehow replace the boot, or is there another underlying problem at play? Also, do these two issues seem related to the same source? I seem to remember the squeak being there for a while now, whereas the leak is just as of the last month.
Thanks in advance!
David
END RESULTS FOR SEARCHERS
That got it, thanks guys! I replaced the slave cylinder and the entire clutch line with a stainless one from RTPerformance, the same guys from the group deal section. I actually bought it from ebay, (their seller name is rtperformance118) and they gave me the same free shipping deal by mentioning that I was an org member.
The leak is totally stopped at even the squeaking is gone. I can pump the clutch pedal all day and the fork doesn't utter a sound. The pedal feels much smoother throughout the swing and bleeding the entire line has resulted in a much firmer pedal overall. If anyone is curious, I used ATE Brake fluid for the clutch job. It came in a liter can and only a little bit of it did the entire clutch system. I plan to use the rest in my brake lines later this month or next spring. Here's a list of all the parts I bought for future reference of searchers:
Clutch slave cylinder (never heard of the brand before, but it's a solid piece; works perfectly) -
ATE DOT 4 brake fluid -
One piece stainless steel clutch line for 4th gens (remember to ask for the free shipping for maxima.org members) -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110584769949...84.m1439.l2649
All in all, about $90. Not the cheapest way to repair a slave cylinder by any means, but it feels good knowing it should all last the duration of my Maxima ownership.
Also, the bleeding process seemed a bit difficult at first because the pedal falls to the floor when the bleed valve is open. What I did to get a nice firm pedal was pump the new fluid through a few times by hand by lifting the pedal up and pushing it to the floor about 15-20 times while remembering to top off the reservoir. After you've done this, put a 10mm closed end wrench on the valve (if it's not there already) and tighten the valve. Use the fluid you've collected in a bottle (or shoe...or whatever you may end up using...
) and make sure the hose from the bleed valve (in my case bendy straws) is submerged into the fluid to prevent air from flowing back into the line. If you have a long enough hose, you can rest the bottle on the ground or on the plastic skid plate beneath the radiator. Now have someone you trust get in your car and pump the clutch pedal a few times and then hold it to the floor. While it's held, loosen the valve until you see some fluid come out and then tighten it again. If your hose isn't transparent, just do it by feel. You may also need to remove the battery ground cable to get clearance for wrench movement. Your pedal will be flat to the floor again after this, but just lift it up and it'll build pressure immediately. Do this two or three or ten times until you feel it's firm enough, and do a final tighten of the bleed valve with a socket wrench just to be sure it's snug.Senior Member
The leak is coming from the clutch slave cylinder. You need to replace it. It does not cost much and is easy to do.
Do your self a big favor. "while you are in there anyway", also buy and install the one-piece stainless steel brake line that fits between the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder. The rubber lines tend to leak. Nissan installed additional tubing that looks like a rats nest. Bleeding it is not easy. The one piece line by-passes all of that.
Do a search about the one-piece stainless steel line.
Do your self a big favor. "while you are in there anyway", also buy and install the one-piece stainless steel brake line that fits between the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch master cylinder. The rubber lines tend to leak. Nissan installed additional tubing that looks like a rats nest. Bleeding it is not easy. The one piece line by-passes all of that.
Do a search about the one-piece stainless steel line.
Quote:
Do your self a big favor. "while you are in there anyway", also buy and install the one-piece stainless steel brake line
+10Originally Posted by JvG
The leak is coming from the clutch slave cylinder. You need to replace it. It does not cost much and is easy to do. Do your self a big favor. "while you are in there anyway", also buy and install the one-piece stainless steel brake line
I still cant even fathom the sheer amount of crack cocain the nissan engineers smoked while designing our clutch line. The one piece is by far much cleaner and unbelievably easy to bleed as compared to the stock line.
Any idea how to treat a squeaky clutch? I installed the one piece not too long ago and my clutch squeaks every time i depress the pedal, its sounding like its coming from the fork. Can i just pull the boot open and squirt some sort of grease in there? Annoying as hell being at a stop light and having my car soud like my dogs squeaky toy..
Senior Member
You could try pulling the boot off and spraying some white lithium grease down on the ball thing that holds the fork, but it might be that the squeak is coming from the throw out bearing rubbing against the input shaft without enough lubrication, and I don't think you could get that solved without taking the transmission out and lubricating the TOB.
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
Posted from Maxima.org App for Android
Thanks for the replies everyone! Could it also be that the fluid leaking out of the slave cylinder could be causing the squeak from the fork? I can't tell if it's the fork or TOB, but it sounds like the fork if I had to guess (or hope).
That got it, thanks guys! I replaced the slave cylinder and the entire clutch line with a stainless one from RTPerformance, the same guys from the group deal section. I actually bought it from ebay, (their seller name is rtperformance118) and they gave me the same free shipping deal by mentioning that I was an org member.
The leak is totally stopped at even the squeaking is gone. I can pump the clutch pedal all day and the fork doesn't utter a sound. The pedal feels much smoother throughout the swing and bleeding the entire line has resulted in a much firmer pedal overall. If anyone is curious, I used ATE Brake fluid for the clutch job. It came in a liter can and only a little bit of it did the entire clutch system. I plan to use the rest in my brake lines later this month or next spring.
The leak is totally stopped at even the squeaking is gone. I can pump the clutch pedal all day and the fork doesn't utter a sound. The pedal feels much smoother throughout the swing and bleeding the entire line has resulted in a much firmer pedal overall. If anyone is curious, I used ATE Brake fluid for the clutch job. It came in a liter can and only a little bit of it did the entire clutch system. I plan to use the rest in my brake lines later this month or next spring.